tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-83272173971524141292024-03-19T01:35:37.955-07:00The Dashing Eccentric"...a raging sea of high weirdness..." Adam Gorightlytinyjuncohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03614867046924013061noreply@blogger.comBlogger305125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8327217397152414129.post-7655473176040628022016-03-11T16:01:00.001-08:002016-03-11T18:50:50.173-08:00Two More Tried And True Blouses - B5538<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/3HYPU4k3y_k2mfykWFFa8xi9LFQlqiDwB1ZbmRWZcecIQ9PIhHeBVSTcNeX60s0-ERq71yEnWng1dg6o4no76U4_gpcTyC_1qR-Hiw0EHhe3f_I-SsotSaVEA3yrWXP7HPT2aObr1hzmcZIgy8gnLJxTjN4WwXdxPJ5hRShCA2Owxx1EC1opZsyGDwcGe19G_DqVtf2dwPCDSvp-o1de4_E4N_BOghYRnuu1C4wHferXsYqc0unsXb9TUukSG-xJfXU3_uxmhyF2wOVAMrHJ2eI3OLZ59hSJjia9h56eE0FFINUKzBlNSNv05-QstbHr0ealn_p7brDKAfFwLz3b3gALQ9oJgkumJzzeAf1xhxWSC7973L8xoj4yyNXUNCacmY-Lhn_aas_qd_z19noGM4gKr5mna0wSyabbYF1gcYa3vJOvR9SId03TRBf5_s2MOjr1Ag68_KbPaHz8ZlnHQhVRbfYDj2C8CLXfyxegVocNVJ1y2aaxX_oY_NMZ2dLpalmtHsKbpQdPXgqzmaP2WDX47jIZxC3cwhT7MBIqwjGw9tDiAf6A74im4fYAubDMUGLd=w530-h798-no" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/3HYPU4k3y_k2mfykWFFa8xi9LFQlqiDwB1ZbmRWZcecIQ9PIhHeBVSTcNeX60s0-ERq71yEnWng1dg6o4no76U4_gpcTyC_1qR-Hiw0EHhe3f_I-SsotSaVEA3yrWXP7HPT2aObr1hzmcZIgy8gnLJxTjN4WwXdxPJ5hRShCA2Owxx1EC1opZsyGDwcGe19G_DqVtf2dwPCDSvp-o1de4_E4N_BOghYRnuu1C4wHferXsYqc0unsXb9TUukSG-xJfXU3_uxmhyF2wOVAMrHJ2eI3OLZ59hSJjia9h56eE0FFINUKzBlNSNv05-QstbHr0ealn_p7brDKAfFwLz3b3gALQ9oJgkumJzzeAf1xhxWSC7973L8xoj4yyNXUNCacmY-Lhn_aas_qd_z19noGM4gKr5mna0wSyabbYF1gcYa3vJOvR9SId03TRBf5_s2MOjr1Ag68_KbPaHz8ZlnHQhVRbfYDj2C8CLXfyxegVocNVJ1y2aaxX_oY_NMZ2dLpalmtHsKbpQdPXgqzmaP2WDX47jIZxC3cwhT7MBIqwjGw9tDiAf6A74im4fYAubDMUGLd=w530-h798-no" /></a></div>
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<i>Edit: I seem to have resolved the issue - please alert me if you have further trouble. Big thanks to Caro and shams for their help!</i><br />
<i>Edit: Caro has let me know that pictures are still absent for some viewers, as well as the Google Photo album. I loaded the pictures up on Facebook where no one has had trouble so far. You can search for me as Stephanie Qich or try this link: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/stephanie.qich/posts/10206075625593882" target="_blank">photo album</a>. I sincerely apologize and thank Caro for her help!</i><br />
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<i>ON EDIT: Blogger has been changing their picture hosting settings, and the pictures did not appear when I first published this post. I believe I have fixed the issue, but if you have any issues you may view the images here: <a href="https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipPuY83mqr8eK2C8idGO7d41AW0ChCPqf_7Bs8Yc" target="_blank">link to album</a>.</i><br />
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As of two days ago I've made THREE more blouses! This post shows two of them. I used the same <a href="http://butterick.mccall.com/b5538-products-12360.php?page_id=428" target="_blank">Connie Crawford for Butterick design</a> as I did for <a href="http://dashingeccentric.blogspot.com/2016/02/inspiration-ivey-abitz.html" target="_blank">the black eyelet Ivey Abitz inspired blouse</a>, but made changes to the neckline, length and sleeve. <a href="http://wearthehat.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Adrienne of Wear The Hat</a> has been working on multiples as well - <a href="http://wearthehat.blogspot.com/2015/10/chanel-jacket-finally-done.html" target="_blank">check out her first Chanel style jacket</a>! Absolute drop dead chic worn with jeans, well worth the effort. (Adrienne I had trouble responding to your comment on my last post so wanted to drop it here where i knew you'd see it.) Yes i love my readers!<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/jCJrgrX9EusbpL3-rtln9DoWlDkxEzJm1nATDItAqQDfEEbD7avA5zcC1MeIqsMKKfYgDGvnkBffjH4-gszZ6vScd_0God1yHpIxJisnTBbzNl8m6DaoY3vtvRENrBTQAWwnHH1hrN_ekUGV1s8fkBtQ6Gdsdq2FZrwnT_lHFdfS0eOWY0V0FQyRsZf3N1e7jHuw42C_nXWmvCZ0uDH3e4Q5RP5J1HHKd7atBBJ_XnrlJwFdRlvD7BSddPhBoZli8uba-q6UQ3XmdLegWSjBDWcmr1mW89TsbD5AFlt5WxRg8inNWKXvdtpMx-aliOMQ565qhnTZ37ziBzGvKBaF7vCpNCJM162log4qCUxQP_2RQqhXH30-DvEAx6oA1hxEueChKxCg0Ob2S0fAmmJ7vRw9ZQ7w7GKj-9fG_iIyFuxiPfqtITS8zMdqP0eZzFYGSqW3XpkJjZTCxSL8ftsX2A2WlDWwib98KDdzFMMUNnyvsWIpsUoRAqlAeKJykvEchImgQ53lQRH_VzaMeDA0Zc9aErQwwdImVRxacP13Sty9gvGQofbCI_pKClpcQ0YiCGQp=w512-h798-no" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/jCJrgrX9EusbpL3-rtln9DoWlDkxEzJm1nATDItAqQDfEEbD7avA5zcC1MeIqsMKKfYgDGvnkBffjH4-gszZ6vScd_0God1yHpIxJisnTBbzNl8m6DaoY3vtvRENrBTQAWwnHH1hrN_ekUGV1s8fkBtQ6Gdsdq2FZrwnT_lHFdfS0eOWY0V0FQyRsZf3N1e7jHuw42C_nXWmvCZ0uDH3e4Q5RP5J1HHKd7atBBJ_XnrlJwFdRlvD7BSddPhBoZli8uba-q6UQ3XmdLegWSjBDWcmr1mW89TsbD5AFlt5WxRg8inNWKXvdtpMx-aliOMQ565qhnTZ37ziBzGvKBaF7vCpNCJM162log4qCUxQP_2RQqhXH30-DvEAx6oA1hxEueChKxCg0Ob2S0fAmmJ7vRw9ZQ7w7GKj-9fG_iIyFuxiPfqtITS8zMdqP0eZzFYGSqW3XpkJjZTCxSL8ftsX2A2WlDWwib98KDdzFMMUNnyvsWIpsUoRAqlAeKJykvEchImgQ53lQRH_VzaMeDA0Zc9aErQwwdImVRxacP13Sty9gvGQofbCI_pKClpcQ0YiCGQp=w512-h798-no" /></a></div>
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Back to the blouses. I like collars that morph into ties. A few years ago I bought a Babeau pussy bow blouse and the neckline was just about perfect, so I based this neckline on that blouse. I made the collar/tie of a simple long rectangle which finishes at one inch wide, with varying length.<br />
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The polka dot blouse uses the sleeve from the original pattern. For the floral blouse, I added gathers and about half an inch to the cap height for a fuller look. These looks are very influenced by seventies French designers such as Yves Saint Laurent, Cacharel, and Chloe. All made very wearable blouses paired with full skirts. Worn with boots or oxfords, the resulting outfits are very practical as well as feminine and, when made up in more high end fabrications, quite luxe.<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/4-NqDK6zlYQSs7VZX9PGPt1ieZ0XFL_jL4F1_X4HnthJdguemlKWIZ_apNs7lshGY7f8Rljgiyb-3404WFcJpoTo_bw9Nn7XpU7CT5HIMNFdUSCk1pR5Zog1-Txc15NM1BDAXgKrp3t6Hfc0p0DFVQ6yLGA8_ulsx43j6Ub7fI55JlVhJ9vKH9Md5D3LPG1nd4_iNmUD34XUV-JtDbdWygDRHzDeOpO6qkEhpLMBYRMuvq2lSyd6tB5Uzl9tyVkrfWhtubXcK9rbQ42au2G3qU8PBA9QS5K8Bh7Cda7W17AM_ebWHiHdP8UqF7v7dzeX3a0CQ4JafXtmKoVQ8vu6r1kClY88SWhfg-JokePzmHtYShj-t9QvcW6Xa_hwhJdwrokqYw8SNwsqg7Cq66wcFguogS6KLo95GSQwnKchUBR7m63p5WKNdAjI7G8E_54KWE8W2pWcX2qX0JofdhMW-N5NhYOh4lEP0ikhuRjs59wOlJx6XowNiqUMRVyt_x3-jdWk1Kc9W2JOzZvg10ZOHbeZIvHsuOwe4swl-YkqdfXEYNnzXGtTEwANhyTYGBfAsdBp=w528-h798-no" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/4-NqDK6zlYQSs7VZX9PGPt1ieZ0XFL_jL4F1_X4HnthJdguemlKWIZ_apNs7lshGY7f8Rljgiyb-3404WFcJpoTo_bw9Nn7XpU7CT5HIMNFdUSCk1pR5Zog1-Txc15NM1BDAXgKrp3t6Hfc0p0DFVQ6yLGA8_ulsx43j6Ub7fI55JlVhJ9vKH9Md5D3LPG1nd4_iNmUD34XUV-JtDbdWygDRHzDeOpO6qkEhpLMBYRMuvq2lSyd6tB5Uzl9tyVkrfWhtubXcK9rbQ42au2G3qU8PBA9QS5K8Bh7Cda7W17AM_ebWHiHdP8UqF7v7dzeX3a0CQ4JafXtmKoVQ8vu6r1kClY88SWhfg-JokePzmHtYShj-t9QvcW6Xa_hwhJdwrokqYw8SNwsqg7Cq66wcFguogS6KLo95GSQwnKchUBR7m63p5WKNdAjI7G8E_54KWE8W2pWcX2qX0JofdhMW-N5NhYOh4lEP0ikhuRjs59wOlJx6XowNiqUMRVyt_x3-jdWk1Kc9W2JOzZvg10ZOHbeZIvHsuOwe4swl-YkqdfXEYNnzXGtTEwANhyTYGBfAsdBp=w528-h798-no" /></a></div>
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Which brings me to the focus of this post. These blouses really shine because they fit nicely, have subtle details, and are made with really beautiful garment fabrics. Many of us sew to get the most value for our dollar. As a consequence, we look for fabrics which cost less per yard. Indeed, many gorgeous, artful garments have sprung from humble quilting cottons, denim, and interior decorator specials.<br />
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However I encourage you to additionally take a look at the nicer fabrics made specifically for garments. No one would suggest that you neglect your construction skills, or leave off pressing during construction. Similarly, don't let the quality of materials you use fall behind your level of craftswomanship! I don't recommend compulsively buying top dollar, impractical fabrics. Simply make yourself aware, educate your hand and eye to what a really beautifully designed print looks like, how a fine Italian cotton jacquard feels to wear and work with. These experiences will inform your decisions when you shop the discount bin and enable you to find the gems.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/2Rd8r0bWeF1MN-36m4BhuDbF7EvfDyOWbKDmgk-bk96vi5EAjFlQZ0-02wpCDBQjQP6l1E-Hp0HulitoaZ1f_X-h6IunITYV1Rt7xgCYajFVxhEqX-k-JJf7qvi_2veKHUGi3jlbdKU9x7NZYCQ1IqDAqB6Ca24itmGN6UqYLySnRiBnsBx3n1sJh0PswetuKLQ17pXVZoeWmjYPZSc38PMu5vRTOVNIaWa9Mx9SitMHuizljhFr-RePvLpdcaikD1CpyxuXzB2zFegjIX3l2Mok-PHUaE-Y8wLbbMGT4kU-xOwomjByUnHgu25Zy2Jwv86jJrTGOFy_5N6ETx1MNaAAuNQPrXDz4Q5nlL1tOIa40t9GtNjf7_N0Z1_ukwD2Gh6WYazVUsSXq_mTksaZKS8UJEFd5bBMDKYMsffYlZJ4JfHFyJYBR3Cg7zR9FwW5Xp6U_XMP6Rei2En4wMWWKevrvaiUeecn0RYbga1WkX0byaQjVvm2Zs7l0ddPektf3wdPwgBN1TJPWxV8agKcGR2sZmje3wn1aDgPAF2p4O1fOjcLxyS56dia6zYFDXeVXKmR=w418-h798-no" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/2Rd8r0bWeF1MN-36m4BhuDbF7EvfDyOWbKDmgk-bk96vi5EAjFlQZ0-02wpCDBQjQP6l1E-Hp0HulitoaZ1f_X-h6IunITYV1Rt7xgCYajFVxhEqX-k-JJf7qvi_2veKHUGi3jlbdKU9x7NZYCQ1IqDAqB6Ca24itmGN6UqYLySnRiBnsBx3n1sJh0PswetuKLQ17pXVZoeWmjYPZSc38PMu5vRTOVNIaWa9Mx9SitMHuizljhFr-RePvLpdcaikD1CpyxuXzB2zFegjIX3l2Mok-PHUaE-Y8wLbbMGT4kU-xOwomjByUnHgu25Zy2Jwv86jJrTGOFy_5N6ETx1MNaAAuNQPrXDz4Q5nlL1tOIa40t9GtNjf7_N0Z1_ukwD2Gh6WYazVUsSXq_mTksaZKS8UJEFd5bBMDKYMsffYlZJ4JfHFyJYBR3Cg7zR9FwW5Xp6U_XMP6Rei2En4wMWWKevrvaiUeecn0RYbga1WkX0byaQjVvm2Zs7l0ddPektf3wdPwgBN1TJPWxV8agKcGR2sZmje3wn1aDgPAF2p4O1fOjcLxyS56dia6zYFDXeVXKmR=w418-h798-no" /></a></div>
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I purchased the polka dot linen at <a href="http://www.stonemountainfabric.com/" target="_blank">Stone Mountain and Daughter in Berkeley, CA</a>. I stop by frequently as I live fairly close by and visit Berkeley a few times monthly. They stock a wide variety of garment fabrics, including wool, knits, silks (prints, stretch, blends), linen. The beauty of shopping in person means I get to contemplate these fabrics for weeks or months before buying. I squeaked this blouse out of the yardage as I'd daydreamed about it so long there was only about one and a half yards left on the bolt!<br />
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This linen is finer than most medium weight linen, with fewer nubs as the threads are more regular. The blue, while dark, has a bright life to it, and I love the random placement of the dots. They're a light stone color, easier on my complexion than stark white. Finally, the fibres themselves shine with a lovely soft sheen. This fabric is much nicer than decorator linen when you're looking to make a blouse, as the weave, weight, color and pattern scale are all suited to the body rather than a couch.<br />
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I bought the floral cotton jacquard online from <a href="http://www.marcytilton.com/index.php?cid=903" target="_blank">Marcy Tilton</a> last summer. The base fabric is a beautiful cotton paisley jacquard. Very light and soft with a wonderful drape. I used a bit of spray starch and it was easy to work with. I would have fallen for this fabric instantly for the colorful, gorgeously depicted floral print alone - combined with the impeccable base fabric I cannot imagine anything more delicious!<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/u_xRvjxco7WMfvtuu4AvxPT8lwyDBV3PsaIUa5x50H6JVGYrY9DHCw0OsNVSK0vfcXPG5Km2ie1vWhO4lwTWBevqwQWsvXSWiQAm0J74e71Fcs-1p4US1kmE8TkT3IJlprfaMP3n5q1j4fOIjQkw_YFnCQBObSdANYVAJba8wA7H344mLZVOdPvKRoctOzpgx0LY1L3q_lrYEwsB9UJx1WX5Y5yAONYzutfmxFaVaxil88CtxJ8JE760710OkkpCmFp1T9xiBJ-q5Av-Hu5JZ3_9H2bzqzIHRnFubnphjjsjBrN-bo4vg1iffc0aipaGOdfvmcMzvV8qqJge7cJdWBTh-Sw4KM6xVbkFZzWp9KWnLy7wvCKkeP4P1hoZnk9EybzrAmu6gbYwocZoVnrStqnqdWthfFbuFv_2U88edGr3Q3z2g2vqXhgSp5LOPXnUXU4puWjOuOSdFrNMKz24_oeOdFTk6xv854ZGghHRZBiK7QCn3vdEBEtcFy_Q81Vi55xG2YBfC5x04cyvtVas1B2kOotmsP-Wo2Ns6325kvDVlpF9pRxKPb_omDewMft401lR=w519-h798-no" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/u_xRvjxco7WMfvtuu4AvxPT8lwyDBV3PsaIUa5x50H6JVGYrY9DHCw0OsNVSK0vfcXPG5Km2ie1vWhO4lwTWBevqwQWsvXSWiQAm0J74e71Fcs-1p4US1kmE8TkT3IJlprfaMP3n5q1j4fOIjQkw_YFnCQBObSdANYVAJba8wA7H344mLZVOdPvKRoctOzpgx0LY1L3q_lrYEwsB9UJx1WX5Y5yAONYzutfmxFaVaxil88CtxJ8JE760710OkkpCmFp1T9xiBJ-q5Av-Hu5JZ3_9H2bzqzIHRnFubnphjjsjBrN-bo4vg1iffc0aipaGOdfvmcMzvV8qqJge7cJdWBTh-Sw4KM6xVbkFZzWp9KWnLy7wvCKkeP4P1hoZnk9EybzrAmu6gbYwocZoVnrStqnqdWthfFbuFv_2U88edGr3Q3z2g2vqXhgSp5LOPXnUXU4puWjOuOSdFrNMKz24_oeOdFTk6xv854ZGghHRZBiK7QCn3vdEBEtcFy_Q81Vi55xG2YBfC5x04cyvtVas1B2kOotmsP-Wo2Ns6325kvDVlpF9pRxKPb_omDewMft401lR=w519-h798-no" /></a></div>
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There are many options for buying garment fabrics online and in person today. The trick is to find a store whose aesthetic lies along similar lines to your own. I visit <a href="https://www.britexfabrics.com/" target="_blank">Britex in San Francisco</a> from time to time, and while it is truly a world class fabric store I never find any fabric I want to buy. They buy for someone with more money and more special occasions than I sew for - as intoxicating as the Valentino silk chiffon prints may be, they fit neither my lifestyle nor my budget.<br />
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<a href="http://www.marcytilton.com/index.php?cid=903" target="_blank">At the Tilton store,</a> it's a different story. While she is known for edgy knits in neutral tones, Marcy Tilton buys fabric in a much wider range. I've been shopping from her long enough to have confidence in the quality of what she offers and to know to keep an eye out for specials and end cuts. There are many online fabric stores, and each has their own aesthetic and specialty. If you cannot find everything you'd like in brick and mortar stores near you, take the time to do some research to see if there's a store or two out there which could be worth your while. When you're getting to know a store, you can order samples if they offer that service, or buy a less expensive piece on sale, special, or end cut. After a couple of orders you should have a better feel for how you like the store without being out too much cash.<br />
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I'm not suggesting that everyone immediately drop everything and only buy $200 a yard cashmere for their work clothes. I'm just saying that it's worthwhile to take a look around at some of the nicer and newer stuff now and then. If any of it catches your fancy, and you think you would wear it, see if you can buy some at a reasonable rate. Every now and then take a look to see if there's any new vendors around who carry merchandise that speaks to you. Keeping up to date with what is on offer is an excellent way to keep your sewing fresh, creative and satisfying.<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/J4P74-b2EMODsNu99iQ-fDxmTtQG2m1EcZhGscU9h2tDNi9pBY-9hEnKOlLlJUnzqCBuIxI7Ewx8vSV0TM_X3-yxgLcnUiljtPNTzzFr4cg-zWhokTA-EvaT4c1NWLnhU7oFPU6A_XFQGPgdvK1L_xrMU5UW157o759ovt0n7Q9hMR1ttizJkhqfEQFbaVZeVmO9Q_EmfD1qqhJsym8ZpQf3UWlFU3hHOV7yHChWEHxnLSDpMoxB8Rd_AFidRrzyytoH5ds4PWNb9Wmqu4GIP7-fD6S9f91G9rmobQ_bGxJNhTNX_NHy2wC7rjYPILN5FQaAhANOqMQq6CCEmemXo_lh0UXnO1Tb2xaUk-EcomEhjVzHF5HP3_bsfd8oaGixnNQ31CR3Bch09D-nSYt_IMTgWq7vkoybMREQn4_T65pH1Vq9OMp7HfDEZKFX6hAW4_JPgXl-Y0WW5kmwsACMpyGBq2p6ukjFr0gEAZP7Nu--T6mHKc-UmOIERCxRrdlibE8mACYtPxY8ieVY87Rwk1Qg1E8y8nNr4t71aPE-kr0_hvgjBKpoVrJOk0SYGlpG6tFV=w453-h798-no" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/J4P74-b2EMODsNu99iQ-fDxmTtQG2m1EcZhGscU9h2tDNi9pBY-9hEnKOlLlJUnzqCBuIxI7Ewx8vSV0TM_X3-yxgLcnUiljtPNTzzFr4cg-zWhokTA-EvaT4c1NWLnhU7oFPU6A_XFQGPgdvK1L_xrMU5UW157o759ovt0n7Q9hMR1ttizJkhqfEQFbaVZeVmO9Q_EmfD1qqhJsym8ZpQf3UWlFU3hHOV7yHChWEHxnLSDpMoxB8Rd_AFidRrzyytoH5ds4PWNb9Wmqu4GIP7-fD6S9f91G9rmobQ_bGxJNhTNX_NHy2wC7rjYPILN5FQaAhANOqMQq6CCEmemXo_lh0UXnO1Tb2xaUk-EcomEhjVzHF5HP3_bsfd8oaGixnNQ31CR3Bch09D-nSYt_IMTgWq7vkoybMREQn4_T65pH1Vq9OMp7HfDEZKFX6hAW4_JPgXl-Y0WW5kmwsACMpyGBq2p6ukjFr0gEAZP7Nu--T6mHKc-UmOIERCxRrdlibE8mACYtPxY8ieVY87Rwk1Qg1E8y8nNr4t71aPE-kr0_hvgjBKpoVrJOk0SYGlpG6tFV=w453-h798-no" /></a></div>
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I'm wearing my <a href="https://www.extasia.com/" target="_blank">staple Extasia jewelry</a> here. I've combined a couple of <a href="https://www.extasia.com/retail-jewelry/charms.html?all=1" target="_blank">the petite charms</a> with my <a href="http://www.benitezjewelers.com/public_html/index.html" target="_blank">Benitez Jewelers</a> rose studs to make dangling, "They go but they don't match" earrings. The charm you can see here was a lovely gift from Joanne, who works at the <a href="https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=extasia%20outlet%20nevada%20city" target="_blank">Extasia Outlet in Nevada City, CA</a>. If you're up there be sure to visit the store! They have incredible deals on their outstanding jewelry, from everyday wear to elaborate statement pieces. Joanne herself is delightful and quite knowledgeable on matters esoteric, metaphysical, and philosophical. She is always an intriguing conversationalist and I am happy to have a keepsake from her.<br />
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If you know of any great online stores for sewing let us know in the comments!<br />
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<br />tinyjuncohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03614867046924013061noreply@blogger.com26tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8327217397152414129.post-23458669325705390592016-02-16T09:44:00.004-08:002016-02-16T09:44:27.920-08:00Inspiration: Ivey Abitz<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/_o8gJBS3uddLdEMMylJEG90CoKb8Glr62gdRKRP7NxZMKvZmXcHCYlChDahndutloKEipNqVTMB2VIWAm-rLUuP_kqT7DHjamsi1EscQjHq3_2CJzW5fMzk31-JKEAOplBDXFTIbb2yaQG5nWE_FOY5vgnmQhsQ0Pwl3X6ueRlhVEKiyVnz5IUBsf7lpfsbpcshA_plCn6YjwVk7zU5y_t9_CbKLTTXrK5oW2t2lx-62SGnqPmqzztqJbLpgXhGGcOByscjx7WNJ9HBqK6k1kEmjuqrvAvHfPsGRpUOjDWNP19iafO_yHBe84Phrh8umfI7iJK7ey46qC1jDWkY2gH3_7aquRL4RGNbWJ9IZJ9NsOPvERWAs1u83zT__ehe1VjDUT0Z2Cx5Yxcu82bq6rWJrKQVeL68VVhsTHJvhJSRc88fOdcG5hYtzSGmwv6mn8HHxWnZvsLonwhLeiqJwRAFB9SWW59CZ7W6RBZUu8uCkkaVyMoAIHqMGJnrlNzKQl6Q-eZfnkxN1YXTwSngC00ZE7cRaXH1mLc4LEw2LqLus8toxjx7tjI1ROMy6wrXahX8m=w603-h839-no" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/_o8gJBS3uddLdEMMylJEG90CoKb8Glr62gdRKRP7NxZMKvZmXcHCYlChDahndutloKEipNqVTMB2VIWAm-rLUuP_kqT7DHjamsi1EscQjHq3_2CJzW5fMzk31-JKEAOplBDXFTIbb2yaQG5nWE_FOY5vgnmQhsQ0Pwl3X6ueRlhVEKiyVnz5IUBsf7lpfsbpcshA_plCn6YjwVk7zU5y_t9_CbKLTTXrK5oW2t2lx-62SGnqPmqzztqJbLpgXhGGcOByscjx7WNJ9HBqK6k1kEmjuqrvAvHfPsGRpUOjDWNP19iafO_yHBe84Phrh8umfI7iJK7ey46qC1jDWkY2gH3_7aquRL4RGNbWJ9IZJ9NsOPvERWAs1u83zT__ehe1VjDUT0Z2Cx5Yxcu82bq6rWJrKQVeL68VVhsTHJvhJSRc88fOdcG5hYtzSGmwv6mn8HHxWnZvsLonwhLeiqJwRAFB9SWW59CZ7W6RBZUu8uCkkaVyMoAIHqMGJnrlNzKQl6Q-eZfnkxN1YXTwSngC00ZE7cRaXH1mLc4LEw2LqLus8toxjx7tjI1ROMy6wrXahX8m=w603-h839-no" /></a></div>
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Since the inception of this blog, I've been on the trail of a few Tried And True (TNT) patterns to use for bulking up the closet. Recently I have nailed down another TNT pattern, and this one has some advantages over the rest. It is very easy and quick to construct, fits great, and allows a huge degree of flexibility in design details - you can make any version of sleeve from short to long, and the length of the blouse can vary from hi hip to dress length. Neckline and collar also allow many variations.<br />
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This new TNT is Connie Crawford's princess seamed blouse pattern for <a href="http://butterick.mccall.com/b5538-products-12360.php?page_id=147" target="_blank">Butterick, 5538</a> (<a href="http://www.fashionpatterns.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=116" target="_blank">also available from Ms. Crawford's site here</a>). This blouse pictured in this post is my second make using this pattern, inspired very heavily by <a href="http://iveyabitz.com/" target="_blank">Ivey Abitz designs</a>. Now, you all know I am beyond picky when it comes to my clothes - I find things I would change in the Chanel boutique in Neiman Marcus, for goodness sake! However, Ms. Abitz's designs? I'll take several dozen, happily.<br />
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Sadly, my bank account has other ideas....but, in the ultimate ascent of this emotion-sartorial roller coaster ride, yay! I can sew! And Ms. Abitz uses quite economical materials in her designs.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/nA-9NEW9GVw_FPlrLjqfiM9peTPmFU45mt6N5cHkDTiQ1-0AUcjJK2gpTl_XzN680KcFYfb5fLJgAljaXtAleouGHj6CBm0J05lcRP43pn9ki3Tf-VZQVTewBkACCGQIyGTJbxdBTKUdyBM7VgaTJoP2gcBa-LSD3oeRmacbK8pE0v_v7WlBuFhEZ8QdYsgfY8kMYmr0GLp16RxKdfoX7k-iIuGURROipSAiELNsZ1S9Xrp8130TzguT4Q5PSrUBbQZaNksixyQlebxE87-JzJ8QZGuP6uuS_1bdbuZv0Ymb3BgifPCUW39hQEyYb1KTFWixJor7R-V8k0XeE_oWF-NdAaz2fMk4bnLJyczzeTnVZ5Wzo68o5ePLe_l6LUe6ezQ-z5zkWSpyaDKIdyP_iGiwmF4_AP_bJisLzUcBodnCQk8O2wpXdmDcsRRYA4qyBRKowLMJE5UFyxu03T7D3mZaXAdg_0bfOoTEJdI8_ZyqsUStRi1bZStc_5Mbq-RZCr3zC1UcF7bp8REIN4le1o9i6HdOso4fjI7hlyA8NpC1Oqk41gZa-A2oWUc8qkyL3BJB=w465-h839-no" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/nA-9NEW9GVw_FPlrLjqfiM9peTPmFU45mt6N5cHkDTiQ1-0AUcjJK2gpTl_XzN680KcFYfb5fLJgAljaXtAleouGHj6CBm0J05lcRP43pn9ki3Tf-VZQVTewBkACCGQIyGTJbxdBTKUdyBM7VgaTJoP2gcBa-LSD3oeRmacbK8pE0v_v7WlBuFhEZ8QdYsgfY8kMYmr0GLp16RxKdfoX7k-iIuGURROipSAiELNsZ1S9Xrp8130TzguT4Q5PSrUBbQZaNksixyQlebxE87-JzJ8QZGuP6uuS_1bdbuZv0Ymb3BgifPCUW39hQEyYb1KTFWixJor7R-V8k0XeE_oWF-NdAaz2fMk4bnLJyczzeTnVZ5Wzo68o5ePLe_l6LUe6ezQ-z5zkWSpyaDKIdyP_iGiwmF4_AP_bJisLzUcBodnCQk8O2wpXdmDcsRRYA4qyBRKowLMJE5UFyxu03T7D3mZaXAdg_0bfOoTEJdI8_ZyqsUStRi1bZStc_5Mbq-RZCr3zC1UcF7bp8REIN4le1o9i6HdOso4fjI7hlyA8NpC1Oqk41gZa-A2oWUc8qkyL3BJB=w465-h839-no" /></a></div>
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This blouse is not a knock off or attempted copy of any particular design. What I did was prioritize the elements of Ivey Abitz clothing which I loved the most, the parts which really spoke to me. These I combined with what I know works for me in my own closet; in the practical, flattery, and aesthetic sense. This blouse is the result of that process. <a href="http://iveyabitz.com/2013fallwinter/" target="_blank">Here is a link to one of my favorite Ivey Abitz collections, Fall/Winter 2013</a>, for those of you not yet obsessed with her clothing line.<br />
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What I wanted to take from the Abitz' designs:<br />
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<i><b>Silhouette: </b>IA offers a unique silhouette among lagenlook designers. She creates a classic fit in the bodice with waist emphasis created thru use of drapey fabrics with ties, buttons, and plackets in back rather than thru lots of darting or princess seams. The skirts are full, usually a-line, with lots of hem emphasis: ruffles, gathers, ruching both vertical and horizontal. I chose to create that silhouette using princess seams thru the shoulders. These seams offer ease of construction and fit, as well as perfect spots for embellishment if desired.</i><br />
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<i><b>Fabric:</b> luxe natural - cotton, linen, silk, a bit of wool. None of her fabrics are too heavy, all are quite drapey save the handkerchief linens. Colors are subdued, often overdyed, and IA often shows low-contrast prints, ginghams and stripes, as well as embroidered fabrics. No stretch for me, this is what i wear already.</i><br />
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<i><b>Details:</b> Ivey Abitz offers among the most subtle and small scale of lagenlook details. Signature touches include many small, vintage buttons down the entire front of garments; generously sized collars and cuffs, the aforementioned hem treatments, and small facings and plackets along center fronts. Raw edges are also pretty common.</i><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/np4nieBWaCzN1wM7dMPYAGVwJwrnPWKNDf62ZtBO3EJScf-OHgIsCHA7O_oER1nxYMQ__wHcelKxMiylFX7jjZmHjVnkuZxwuUqu-7fpnVgNpnx-Ji70vdouuViPnS1yqjpfHndbqMsH1BuyeflZWk6YdL_7abNNmv2uWm5OouQzgKwABoUK47OuJeXLMh4Kl9TqJCyB2aggQyyeU0F8fIe9JzI8YP2W_gJQJ8jidp1ITnmDc-AheKAD9U6XVHzSESN913xP0pXDsoGp0U7H0-CS5jmi1x4n02XuOPR2QfCHl9RmWmroefzI6dJle4Kxt8YhxluUiuuAOopm2GgAUnZzArMiW_qnSyPv8yvUbizty54OhQeDetVJ4QiXckMOxMaNrxG35ChHIuRYINZxJ0_JmrJsJRutuBX_amJHDqoV3fceEqB51SAAwo7UYgXR6wZvfuepQCYfucOGds6GLhuyuHIcnkPgNcFCqGpnf4Phih0_COa1MEsiKRqDIpfQuWHDFl2gjxb8jGiuYq7vfkzZtbQYXwni70iCKOXEChn6kk9OQWKimefPT2r5J-Qsr_4L=w494-h839-no" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/np4nieBWaCzN1wM7dMPYAGVwJwrnPWKNDf62ZtBO3EJScf-OHgIsCHA7O_oER1nxYMQ__wHcelKxMiylFX7jjZmHjVnkuZxwuUqu-7fpnVgNpnx-Ji70vdouuViPnS1yqjpfHndbqMsH1BuyeflZWk6YdL_7abNNmv2uWm5OouQzgKwABoUK47OuJeXLMh4Kl9TqJCyB2aggQyyeU0F8fIe9JzI8YP2W_gJQJ8jidp1ITnmDc-AheKAD9U6XVHzSESN913xP0pXDsoGp0U7H0-CS5jmi1x4n02XuOPR2QfCHl9RmWmroefzI6dJle4Kxt8YhxluUiuuAOopm2GgAUnZzArMiW_qnSyPv8yvUbizty54OhQeDetVJ4QiXckMOxMaNrxG35ChHIuRYINZxJ0_JmrJsJRutuBX_amJHDqoV3fceEqB51SAAwo7UYgXR6wZvfuepQCYfucOGds6GLhuyuHIcnkPgNcFCqGpnf4Phih0_COa1MEsiKRqDIpfQuWHDFl2gjxb8jGiuYq7vfkzZtbQYXwni70iCKOXEChn6kk9OQWKimefPT2r5J-Qsr_4L=w494-h839-no" /></a></div>
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I'd purchased 8-10 yards of this beautiful cotton embroidered voile from Stone Mountain and Daughter - 2 yards at regular price, the rest when it went on half off later and i'd seen how well it held up. It would fit in perfectly Chez Abitz. I made a few changes to the Connie Crawford pattern (other than fitting thru the bust and shoulders): I lengthened by 4" and sewed up the side vents, shortened the sleeves and rolled them up to the elbow, and drafted a new collar based on the band from the Folkwear Gibson Girl blouse. I also changed the neckline, bringing it in to center front at the collar from a half inch overlap at the bust level and drafted an inch wide placket for center front.<br />
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To finish the princess seams, shoulder seams and hems I used 3/8" wide black rayon petersham ribbon. I sewed the seams inside out, pressed and trimmed, then topstitched the petersham over the allowances. So nice and clean inside, and a subtle embellishment. I handstitched the same ribbon on the neckline to the collar, with ends left hanging free at center front. In a change from the House of Abitz style, I only added buttons from bust level to a bit below waist. I just like this look, and it makes tying blouses at the waist much easier without added bulk from the buttons.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/Mw3mxyOvp0Rb5cvJpNvw3ESBwK8tR3AzghgPk7GBTkpzvf-36PTBXokmLG32SKKu3G-h3-HgcEUn4ubS7cH110eFoVhka8wCGPX6L7MQxhlpoE_nAuNu3udXf6fWaUp-NTig90fwutlFl5WtiY5eIi_q0aPpby8Llw-1p5tCoCOylzhgkpvQnfwXcrdETT8f6jI_wRm46fIV9layBvEiw_GNaqFp3pSJeT7rl52R9UU3kQa4rZT4AwhIXrFNT0it9Plwrk79X_1090UxMr3NNtchhWY1HgiSepOmCe4zR63mvpIxtlaepjA3Y_8w4cTZQBjP90Lh2M62CBAoFaFMn8zQJdp55jBkRdwCi6MJNJNrf5l78B9BE5wiYhj3aMJRnYdauyVeEkXhRNn58Fq6pAHmkN8Hh-h85wEHChbxZPS5-1Ng2li3MX9onrV7Gfm146gcwthQl355ArY0VrwNAW2K0UiCywl8M7ISX8o2Ep-x6DD1J6V26GE1LLkXZQBU6yk22Afb3NiO5-epbY-BV02yH6JkLQQyoQa-xWURA171f9fWNQ-cAvidWjz6tWT8NXss=w612-h824-no" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/Mw3mxyOvp0Rb5cvJpNvw3ESBwK8tR3AzghgPk7GBTkpzvf-36PTBXokmLG32SKKu3G-h3-HgcEUn4ubS7cH110eFoVhka8wCGPX6L7MQxhlpoE_nAuNu3udXf6fWaUp-NTig90fwutlFl5WtiY5eIi_q0aPpby8Llw-1p5tCoCOylzhgkpvQnfwXcrdETT8f6jI_wRm46fIV9layBvEiw_GNaqFp3pSJeT7rl52R9UU3kQa4rZT4AwhIXrFNT0it9Plwrk79X_1090UxMr3NNtchhWY1HgiSepOmCe4zR63mvpIxtlaepjA3Y_8w4cTZQBjP90Lh2M62CBAoFaFMn8zQJdp55jBkRdwCi6MJNJNrf5l78B9BE5wiYhj3aMJRnYdauyVeEkXhRNn58Fq6pAHmkN8Hh-h85wEHChbxZPS5-1Ng2li3MX9onrV7Gfm146gcwthQl355ArY0VrwNAW2K0UiCywl8M7ISX8o2Ep-x6DD1J6V26GE1LLkXZQBU6yk22Afb3NiO5-epbY-BV02yH6JkLQQyoQa-xWURA171f9fWNQ-cAvidWjz6tWT8NXss=w612-h824-no" /></a></div>
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I'm really happy with this blouse and this TNT. My constant closet refrain is: 'I need more everyday clothes!". I cannot accumulate clothing if I'm reinventing the wheel every time I make a garment. This pattern is easy to make, easy to adapt for a variety of looks, easy to wear. It looks put together over a skirt, pants, or a slip dress which I appreciate when it is too warm for a jacket.<br />
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It's a bit strange when my style is known for being a bit on the eccentric side to find such a classic design works wonderfully in my closet. It goes to show that there are many many design decisions in any garment, and knowing your own signature style elements pays off big time. Now I am off to make version the third, and work on a post about the first version - a polka dotted pussybow.<br />
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<br />tinyjuncohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03614867046924013061noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8327217397152414129.post-8329540775814579452015-08-31T11:01:00.000-07:002015-08-31T11:01:32.181-07:00Corset Style Top<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tkGV3RP3gKY/VeNVL1ZxqhI/AAAAAAAAFEk/7K-W9c5apPQ/s1600/Wht%2BLinen%2BCorset%2BTop%2BK.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tkGV3RP3gKY/VeNVL1ZxqhI/AAAAAAAAFEk/7K-W9c5apPQ/s1600/Wht%2BLinen%2BCorset%2BTop%2BK.jpg" /></a></div>
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I made a little top. Long time readers (hugs all round!) have heard me complain incessantly about the travails of looking stylish and feeling comfortable in temperatures above 90F. <a href="http://dashingeccentric.blogspot.com/2010/06/wardrobe-and-climate.html" target="_blank">Follow this link to my second post ever on exactly this topic</a>. Living on the border between the San Francisco Bay Area and the Great Valley, temperatures this hot may show up a good six months of the year.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zR4eBgkb9gM/VeNZcnHadWI/AAAAAAAAFFM/qvajJ0iFiVs/s1600/White%2BLinen%2BCorset%2BTop%2BC.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zR4eBgkb9gM/VeNZcnHadWI/AAAAAAAAFFM/qvajJ0iFiVs/s1600/White%2BLinen%2BCorset%2BTop%2BC.jpg" /></a></div>
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Around the time I started The Dashing Eccentric I started to make a <a href="http://dashingeccentric.blogspot.com/search/label/embroidered%20cami-top" target="_blank">few little 'cami tops</a>'. Sleeveless, cotton or linen, with styling bringing to mind the corset covers of the Victorian and Edwardian era, my cami tops made up using little fabric and time whilst broadcasting my own personal style no matter how high the mercury climbed.<br />
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I've never been without these style essentials since. However, this spring I had to admit that this part of my wardrobe needed a serious overhaul. My remaining cami-tops were threadbare in places where an artful applique or embroidered fillip would only be <a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=vegas+showgirls&rlz=1C1PRFB_enUS498US507&espv=2&biw=1255&bih=789&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAWoVChMIsZ_QxfDTxwIVAiiICh2USQp2#tbm=isch&q=vegas+showgirl+pasties" target="_blank">appropriate in certain Vegas venues</a>. What's more, I hankered for a more modern, sophisticated take on this garment.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NptgVzleQdg/VeNZfGaNPKI/AAAAAAAAFF0/Om3sqLvf0QU/s1600/Wht%2BLinen%2BCorset%2BTop%2BJ.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NptgVzleQdg/VeNZfGaNPKI/AAAAAAAAFF0/Om3sqLvf0QU/s1600/Wht%2BLinen%2BCorset%2BTop%2BJ.jpg" /></a></div>
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Designing a wardrobe workhorse garment which one hopes to become a TNT can be a long process. First, I had to determine my criteria - what functional and stylistic characteristics would I prioritize?<br />
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I settled on sleeveless, moderate neckline/armscye, style lines/decorative possibilities hearkening back to the corset-cover inspiration, seamlines offering exacting fit around the bust and shoulders, and clean finish of interior and edges. Based on this list I decided to go with princess seams and a yoke.<br />
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I liked the idea of a yoke for three reasons. It allowed seaming which mocked the top of a corset and allowed for closer fitting through the high bust and shoulders. This seaming could be done traditionally, seam allowances turned to the inside and very subtle, or could be accented with tone-on-tone or contrasting trims. In this instance i used self made bias binding in a low-contrast print.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9hxbNam-pwU/VeNZdAxHjLI/AAAAAAAAFFk/O9MVt5zE-XM/s1600/White%2BLinen%2BCorset%2BTop%2BE.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9hxbNam-pwU/VeNZdAxHjLI/AAAAAAAAFFk/O9MVt5zE-XM/s1600/White%2BLinen%2BCorset%2BTop%2BE.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Interior view</i></span></td></tr>
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The third reason I chose to go with a yoke was so I could encase all of the yoke's edges and seam allowances. Above you can see that i sewed the necklines and armscyes of the yoke to a facing, then turned it inside. On the inside of the garment, I pressed up the facing's seam allowances along the bottom edge of the yoke and hand stitched it to the interior seam allowances to finish. You can see it makes for a very clean interior - comfortable as well.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FsCj9otwKLw/VeNZdl7BZuI/AAAAAAAAFFs/hloISoxYBHg/s1600/Wht%2BLinen%2BCorset%2BTop%2BE.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FsCj9otwKLw/VeNZdl7BZuI/AAAAAAAAFFs/hloISoxYBHg/s1600/Wht%2BLinen%2BCorset%2BTop%2BE.jpg" /></a></div>
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Given this decision, I looked at the commercial patterns available to see if I could find one from a well-reviewed designer with similar lines. I chose <a href="http://www.sewlisette.com/patterns/B6183" target="_blank">Lisette's 6183 design for Butterick</a>. The fit was nice and the pieces went together well, and the pattern includes separate pieces for A-D cup sizes - a very nice feature in any bodice. The design lines weren't so far away from my vision so as to make drafting onerous, though I did make substantial changes. I developed completely different construction methods.<br />
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For this garment I chose to use silk organza for the yoke facing. This linen is a bit sheer, so two layers of the linen would have made the yoke appear more opaque than the 'corset' area of the top. This seemed opposite of the effect I wanted of a more substantial 'corset' with flimsier 'yoke'. Since the organza didn't add any visual weight I went with that instead of the linen.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vojCnHxL6Mc/VeNZc8achgI/AAAAAAAAFFI/NtnwRgJwAsQ/s1600/White%2BLinen%2BCorset%2BTop%2BD.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vojCnHxL6Mc/VeNZc8achgI/AAAAAAAAFFI/NtnwRgJwAsQ/s1600/White%2BLinen%2BCorset%2BTop%2BD.jpg" /></a></div>
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As much as I love silk organza, it is a pest to work with! Long, strong threads grabbing everything, everywhere! Fortunately my choice worked very well for the visual effect and it is nice on the skin as well. The end product was worth the effort. If I'd done all that fussing and it hadn't turned out well, I am sure you would have heard my cussing around the world!<br />
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Using bias bindings along the seamlines had more than a decorative purpose. I stitched the vertical seams wrong sides together, pressed and trimmed the seam allowances to about 1/4". I then applied the bias strips on the right side of the garment, topstitching on both edges of the bias strips, thus encasing the raw edges.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NcXA0_6q4Ek/VeNZhOCZQhI/AAAAAAAAFGc/0ub3p_yxcGY/s1600/Wht%2BLinene%2BCorset%2BTop%2BBias%2BBinding%2Bdeet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NcXA0_6q4Ek/VeNZhOCZQhI/AAAAAAAAFGc/0ub3p_yxcGY/s1600/Wht%2BLinene%2BCorset%2BTop%2BBias%2BBinding%2Bdeet.jpg" /></a></div>
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Figuring out the order of construction on this garment, and then working with the silk organza facing was certainly fiddly! However, the end effect is wonderful. I will be looking for more opportunities to use the technique for seam finishes in future. I am scheming another make of this top in black with a white with black cotton ribbon instead of the bias binding (the curves are gentle enough that it should work without the flexibility of the bias). Using the same color but with a different texture - say, satin bias on linen - would yield a subtle, luxe result.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4ttVNvjExB4/VeSWHBfDtOI/AAAAAAAAFGs/EHl5Jc5bCJ0/s1600/White%2BLinen%2BCorset%2BTop%2BButton%2BLabel%2Bdeet%2BCropped.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4ttVNvjExB4/VeSWHBfDtOI/AAAAAAAAFGs/EHl5Jc5bCJ0/s1600/White%2BLinen%2BCorset%2BTop%2BButton%2BLabel%2Bdeet%2BCropped.jpg" /></a></div>
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In order to break up the neckline a bit and allow increased ventilation, I put a split in the yoke at the top center front instead of continuing buttons all the way up. I used a combination of dark grey and clear buttons from the stash. Inside, I used one at the center back of the yoke instead of a label, with a bit of the bias binding underneath clipped like a ribbon.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lNyfXI637O8/VeNZey5YNpI/AAAAAAAAFGM/dSsl6UnbiXI/s1600/Wht%2BLinen%2BCorset%2BTop%2BH.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lNyfXI637O8/VeNZey5YNpI/AAAAAAAAFGM/dSsl6UnbiXI/s1600/Wht%2BLinen%2BCorset%2BTop%2BH.jpg" /></a></div>
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I put a lot of thinking, scheming, testing, and flat out futzing into developing this top - and it was worth it! I look forward to making up more of these tops in neutrals as well as one floral which is drawing my attention in this direction...and I am excited to lengthen this top into a dress as well. Making this design in a dark, clear blue with ivory polka dots in a swingy silk crepe de chine, hitting a bit below mid calf would create a dress embodying easy French chic.<br />
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How did you come to your own TNTs? Did it involve lots of planning and experimenting or did it fall into your lap? Let us know!tinyjuncohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03614867046924013061noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8327217397152414129.post-7116528422678966172015-08-22T10:52:00.001-07:002015-08-22T10:52:42.680-07:00"Calder" Cirque Dress - Marcy Tilton for Vogue 9112<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ww_rAqWkYpI/VdfM-l2A5jI/AAAAAAAAFDk/M6mdYKJGlrU/s1600/Calder%2BCirque%2Bin%2BBerkeley%2BD.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ww_rAqWkYpI/VdfM-l2A5jI/AAAAAAAAFDk/M6mdYKJGlrU/s1600/Calder%2BCirque%2Bin%2BBerkeley%2BD.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Ladies, if you have scrumptious gams this dress (at original length) is for <b>YOU</b>!</i></td></tr>
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I made this Cirque dress before<a href="http://dashingeccentric.blogspot.com/2015/05/cirque-dress-vogue-9112.html" target="_blank"> the one I showed you back in spring</a>, but wanted to get pictures which showed it to full advantage before sharing it with you here. A couple of weeks ago i ran across this fantastic mural in an out of the way, industrial-type area of Berkeley. I thought the cerulean blues would be fantastic against the burnt oranges in this print, but the location didn't lend itself to my usual self-portraiture. <span style="font-family: inherit;">Happily <a href="http://lunaseaswedishvallhunds.com/" target="_blank">my dad agreed to take some pictures of me</a> with his DSLR camera and here we are!</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PG1ZOjxQYBg/VdeqnGNtyWI/AAAAAAAAFCk/HCexOs8N63o/s1600/Calder%2BCirque%2Bin%2BBerkeley%2BB.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PG1ZOjxQYBg/VdeqnGNtyWI/AAAAAAAAFCk/HCexOs8N63o/s640/Calder%2BCirque%2Bin%2BBerkeley%2BB.jpg" width="572" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 16.2239990234375px;">I bought this fabric from Marcy Tilton's online store around 18 months ago. As soon as i saw it i loved it - the style recalls a dear artist friend of mine and the warm colors are my favorites to wear. I had no firm plans for what to <i>DO</i> with it, and this fabric languished in stash <a href="http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v9112-products-49850.php?page_id=174" target="_blank">until i saw Vogue 9112</a>. Instantly i loved that dress and i knew what i was waiting for on this fabric!</span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 16.2239990234375px;">But I had a couple of aspects I wanted to think through to make this dress fantastic. I am 5'5", 5;6" with an Hourglass/Inverted Triangle figure. This dress has a high collar<span id="goog_573237975"></span><span id="goog_573237976"></span> - in fact the collar is lots of what attracts me to this design - but with no design lines breaking up the upper bodice area. So I was a little leery about looking overly formidable. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.thejimbolist.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/margaretdumont.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://www.thejimbolist.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/margaretdumont.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>the lovely and formidable Margaret Dumont <a href="http://www.thejimbolist.com/?p=562" target="_blank">courtesy jimbolist </a></i></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 16.2239990234375px;">I could have taken the 'traditional' approach and altered this dress to create a closure up the center front - but this would destroy the wonderful collar, and i really loved the simplicity and ease of the pop-it-on design. That ease of dressing is especially appealing in the heat of summer. So I decided to take a closer look at the design and all the techniques I've learned to tone down a pair of big square shoulders and large bust to see if I could make it work.</span><br />
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<a href="https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSaoupsHDJ2awg0HGLB_EM7bv0fpSZgCdHLoA20K2bvVdyiqHuprQ" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="216" src="https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSaoupsHDJ2awg0HGLB_EM7bv0fpSZgCdHLoA20K2bvVdyiqHuprQ" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 16.2239990234375px;">As it happens, the design is more IT friendly than one would think at first glance - the wide, open neckline and multiple vertical/diagonal lines of the collar help to break up a wide shoulder line. The shoulder seams are again quite nicely designed - wide enough for modesty and covering a bra, but slim enough to again break up any linebacker shoulders.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 16.2239990234375px;">You may stand the collar up or fold it down. Allowing it to crumple a bit softens the lines around the shoulders. And you can create the classic vee neckline used to break up a generous bust by wearing a longer necklace or two.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-20i2_1expQc/Vdey9ck7O1I/AAAAAAAAFDM/zy2V-oM-Y6c/s1600/Calder%2BCirque%2Bin%2BBerkeley%2BH.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-20i2_1expQc/Vdey9ck7O1I/AAAAAAAAFDM/zy2V-oM-Y6c/s1600/Calder%2BCirque%2Bin%2BBerkeley%2BH.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>I edged the collar with topstitched self-made bias tape to show more of the print</i></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit; line-height: 16.2239990234375px;">When it came to constructing the dress, <a href="http://www.marcytilton.com/index.php?cid=906" target="_blank">I chose a drapey cotton lawn </a>and cut enough ease at the bust so that the dress would drape over the individual breasts instead of pulling taught across the bust (i am wearing a silk camisole under the dress here, without which the drape is more pronounced). I've found this helps to 'break up' the upper body. I placed the print asymmetrically across the bust for the same reason - that sequence of yellow and orange circles at center front would have been a target! </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit; line-height: 16.2239990234375px;"><br /></span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit; line-height: 16.2239990234375px;">Continuing this approach, I placed the print asymmetrically over the dress as a whole. As my aesthetic generally is more low-contrast and delicate, with many curvy lines in face and hair I placed the more delicate, low contrast areas of the print in the upper third of the dress, closer to my face.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit; line-height: 16.2239990234375px;">I concentrated the bolder, darker, higher contrast, 'heavier' areas of the print near the hem to anchor the dress visually and to get the impact of these parts of the print without feeling like I was being overwhelmed.</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cDRt9nrJsRM/VdfLttzl3fI/AAAAAAAAFDc/3Oae_ExoOag/s1600/Calder%2BCirque%2Bin%2BBerkeley%2BJ.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cDRt9nrJsRM/VdfLttzl3fI/AAAAAAAAFDc/3Oae_ExoOag/s1600/Calder%2BCirque%2Bin%2BBerkeley%2BJ.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 16.2239990234375px;">You'll notice that I relied on several different techniques to break up what could have been a formidable bodice - color and light/dark placement in the bodice as well as the overall garment, varying the weight of the lines used in the print over the garment, styling with necklaces, and last but not least <a href="http://marcytiltonblog.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Marcy Tilton's masterful use</a> of </span></span></span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 16.2239990234375px;">subtly</span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 16.2239990234375px;"> </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit; line-height: 16.2239990234375px;">flattering lines in the original dress design.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 16.2239990234375px;">I find that using several techniques, each applied with a light hand, creates a more effective and flattering end result when trying to direct attention towards or away from a particular aspect of one's physical being. Wearing a figure-hugging black dress with a dramatic </span></span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 16.2239990234375px;">decolletage</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 16.2239990234375px;"> will also break up the bust, <a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=elvira&rlz=1C1PRFB_enUS498US507&espv=2&biw=1438&bih=815&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAWoVChMIvLn6pqC9xwIVQ5WICh1rhQGw" target="_blank">but is not appropriate for everyday and can get a bit boring</a>. </span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 16.2239990234375px;"><br /></span></span></span><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 16.2239990234375px;">I am very glad I chose to ignore 'traditional flattery' rules and tackle this design! Not only do i have two great summer dresses (with more to come) but I put myself through my paces creating visual balance in these garments. This experience clarified the process for me, and I hope this knowledge will be useful to my readers as well.</span></span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iMUoUCHfQxg/Vdeu1lEwc7I/AAAAAAAAFDA/nneYsWiaUKU/s1600/Calder%2BCirque%2Bin%2BBerkeley%2BE.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iMUoUCHfQxg/Vdeu1lEwc7I/AAAAAAAAFDA/nneYsWiaUKU/s1600/Calder%2BCirque%2Bin%2BBerkeley%2BE.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>eagle-eyes will spot a high-heeled shoe, cassette audio tape, flaming binocular, old school teevee aerial....</i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 16.2239990234375px;">This view shows the wonderful, </span></span><span style="line-height: 16.2239990234375px;">asymmetrical</span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 16.2239990234375px;"> swoop of the hem which makes this dress so whimsical and fun to wear. As I wanted to wear this piece as a dress, not so much as a tunic, I added 4" at the hem. This alteration is simple to do, and accents the indentation on the lower side hem.</span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 16.2239990234375px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 16.2239990234375px;">Believe it or not, this dress is a big sentimental piece for me. I have a dear friend of many years who is an artist often working in the graffiti style. We spent many wonderful hours visiting museums together. One of his favorite artists is Alexander Calder, and </span><a class="bbc_link" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t6jwnu8Izy0" style="border-bottom-color: rgb(168, 182, 207); border-bottom-style: solid; border-bottom-width: 1px; color: #334466; line-height: 16.2239990234375px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">we saw Calder's circus (made for his daughter) at the Berkeley Art Museum a few times together</a><span style="line-height: 16.2239990234375px;">. So between the graffiti, the color palette, and the 'cirques' of this dress, it reminds me so much of my wonderful friend Shawn. I realize when you hear 'sentimental dressing' one expects old fashioned Victorian frills - this goes to show you just never know!</span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 16.2239990234375px;">What are your most unexpected sentimental garments? Let us know in the comments!</span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 16.2239990234375px;"><b><i>Photography by Marvin Quick. </i></b></span></span>tinyjuncohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03614867046924013061noreply@blogger.com17tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8327217397152414129.post-18700488810390010462015-08-14T08:36:00.002-07:002015-08-14T08:36:39.535-07:00A Blouse for Charming Hummingbirds - B4985<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uMuMVT96qeU/VcznzFubdVI/AAAAAAAAE_M/rowzIHvnz7Y/s1600/Hummy%2BBlouse%2BBriare%2BSlip%2BA.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uMuMVT96qeU/VcznzFubdVI/AAAAAAAAE_M/rowzIHvnz7Y/s1600/Hummy%2BBlouse%2BBriare%2BSlip%2BA.jpg" /></a></div>
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I made this blouse a couple of months ago, but it has been harder to photograph than the Loch Ness Monster and Bigfoot combined! Poor lighting conditions, gadget failure, even buttoning up the blouse wrong all plagued your humble photographess. I've finally managed some decent pictures, which makes me very happy as i really love this blouse and want to share it with you.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EUMVCoN-Jbw/VcznzgrNM8I/AAAAAAAAE_A/hcGldZhiZEw/s1600/Hummy%2BBlouse%2BBriare%2BSlip%2BC.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EUMVCoN-Jbw/VcznzgrNM8I/AAAAAAAAE_A/hcGldZhiZEw/s1600/Hummy%2BBlouse%2BBriare%2BSlip%2BC.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>continuing the bird theme, worn with cuckoo clock pendant</i></span></td></tr>
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I've made this pattern up <a href="http://dashingeccentric.blogspot.com/2011/07/get-most-from-your-sewing-pattern.html" target="_blank">several times before</a>. The addition of princess seams below an empire waist seamline makes fitting a large bust/smaller ribcage and waist really easy and the many small pieces offer a nice canvas to showcase this gorgeous border print cotton lawn<a href="http://www.marcytilton.com/index.php?cid=903" target="_blank"> from Marcy Tilton</a>.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Te4-vL3hI54/Vczn0j9ZTeI/AAAAAAAAE_I/gSr7L7OoUKM/s1600/Hummy%2BBlouse%2BBriare%2BSlip%2BD.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Te4-vL3hI54/Vczn0j9ZTeI/AAAAAAAAE_I/gSr7L7OoUKM/s1600/Hummy%2BBlouse%2BBriare%2BSlip%2BD.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Hummingbird Blouse layered over <a href="http://www.sewtinagivens.com/#!briare-slip/c1p02" target="_blank">Tina Givens' Briare slip</a> and self-drafted petticoat</i></span></td></tr>
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With no sleeves and a fine but very breathable cotton fabric, this blouse is perfect for wearing in the heat. The bright colors and incredibly detailed floral print charm just about everyone. Finding just the right buttons for this blouse could have been a problem, but i used real shell ones i cut off of a old men's dress shirt. I turned them around, revealing the varied shell patterns.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-G16Dl8mhIPM/VcznyQLAjlI/AAAAAAAAE-o/wKd62Jk7V4c/s1600/B4985%2BHummy%2BStyle%2Bdeet%2BA.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-G16Dl8mhIPM/VcznyQLAjlI/AAAAAAAAE-o/wKd62Jk7V4c/s1600/B4985%2BHummy%2BStyle%2Bdeet%2BA.jpg" /></a></div>
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Eileen Fisher has been creating a<a href="http://www.eileenfisher.com/EileenFisher/Behind_the_Label/Behind_the_Label/Repair_and_Care.jsp?bmLocale=en_US" target="_blank"> useful resource at their site on how to take care of your clothe</a>s for the long haul. This project is part of their philosophy of being respectful of the resources used to make their clothing. I enjoyed <a href="http://www.eileenfisher.com/EileenFisher/Behind_the_Label/Behind_the_Label/Repair_and_Care/tailoring_lab.jsp" target="_blank">this video on how to sew on a button</a> and used the same technique on this blouse. The little thread shanks give the buttons a bit of dangling movement.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IneiGf53ByA/VcznyVFTr1I/AAAAAAAAE-w/RyKciUrIXZU/s1600/B4985%2BHummy%2BStyle%2Bdeet%2BC.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IneiGf53ByA/VcznyVFTr1I/AAAAAAAAE-w/RyKciUrIXZU/s400/B4985%2BHummy%2BStyle%2Bdeet%2BC.jpg" width="321" /></a></div>
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I used french seams all through, enclosed the button plackets, and applied bias binding on the armscyes. The more i sew and wear my own garments, the more i appreciate a beautiful interior finish. The experience of wearing a nicely finished item is so much more comfortable, luxurious and sensual than floppy, scratchy ready to wear.<br />
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Combined with beautiful fabric and your desired fit, this type of finish really changes the way you live in your clothes. It can't compare to even the best of ready to wear because RTW manufacturers will not fit so exactly to your unique figure and do not regularly use the same quality of fabric and such time-consuming techniques. This level of luxury lies behind the passion of many seamsters.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QvnPSqngiNI/Vc1A52MnSjI/AAAAAAAAE_k/916dnf9iL0o/s1600/Hummy%2BBlouse%2BBack.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QvnPSqngiNI/Vc1A52MnSjI/AAAAAAAAE_k/916dnf9iL0o/s1600/Hummy%2BBlouse%2BBack.jpg" /></a></div>
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A pattern which one knows inside and out, using it many times, is called a TNT - for "Tried N True". While you see the acronym pretty frequently in the online sewing world , you don't see much practical demonstration of the ways in which you can really stretch a TNT and put it through its paces in creating your wardrobe.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vrhpF3-Nk1M/Vcznzv2rBaI/AAAAAAAAE_E/5FENzZ468wE/s1600/Hummy%2BBlouse%2BBriare%2BSlip%2BB.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vrhpF3-Nk1M/Vcznzv2rBaI/AAAAAAAAE_E/5FENzZ468wE/s1600/Hummy%2BBlouse%2BBriare%2BSlip%2BB.jpg" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://seamstresserin.com/blog/" target="_blank">Erin of Seamstress Erin</a> released a well-reviewed swimming pattern this summer. In conjunction, she has published a number of articles on ways to use this one pattern <a href="https://seamstresserin.com/how-to-use-a-swimsuit-pattern-to-sew-underwear/" target="_blank">to make your own undies</a>, <a href="https://seamstresserin.com/how-to-turn-a-swimsuit-pattern-into-a-tankini/" target="_blank">create a tankini</a>, h<a href="https://seamstresserin.com/how-hack-a-high-waist-swimsuit-bottom/" target="_blank">ack a high waist swim bottom or undies</a>, <a href="https://seamstresserin.com/how-to-sew-a-swimsuit-with-a-skirted-bottom/" target="_blank">how to add a little skirt</a>, and <a href="https://seamstresserin.com/hack-the-nautilus-bikini-into-a-high-waist-with-twists/" target="_blank">how to add a high waist with twists</a>. Whew! What i especially like about this series is how it shows what you can do beyond just changing out the sleeves or leaving off a collar by using some simple drafting skills and your creative vision. Really worth checking out for inspiration - and to see the gorgeous fabrics she uses.<br />
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Do any of you have TNT patterns? Or, even more important, what are the pieces in your wardrobe which are delightful enough to charm a hummingbird? Let us know in the comments!tinyjuncohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03614867046924013061noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8327217397152414129.post-48177539222717134512015-08-06T08:35:00.000-07:002015-08-06T08:38:42.990-07:00Ancestress of Style - Lauren McIntosh<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-g1HvkdvLIpg/Vb5uWcNOOAI/AAAAAAAAE8s/_qbMfNM-ax0/s1600/L.%2BMcIntosh%2BPortrait%2BSftglo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-g1HvkdvLIpg/Vb5uWcNOOAI/AAAAAAAAE8s/_qbMfNM-ax0/s1600/L.%2BMcIntosh%2BPortrait%2BSftglo.jpg" /></a></div>
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We all have our own style icons. While some of them are constantly at front of mind - Isak Dinesen, Amelia Earhardt - others work their magic in our subconscious for decades until one day they decide to stroll out into the spotlight and take a bow.<br />
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Most of you are quite familiar with my love affair with beige. Beige - the perfect low contrast neutral to go with my low contrast coloring, beige keeps me from feeling overwhelmed when i pile on the details or play with an outsized silhouette.<br />
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Which is why i felt perplexed at my choice of daily uniform. The last six months have seen me ever more reliant on uniform dressing. Nine days out of ten I'm in a dress or a full skirt and white linen blouse. Even better if it is a full, black skirt. With a white blouse.<br />
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Black and white. While this combo indeed comprises neutrals, it is the quintessential high contrast look. Why did i love wearing it so much, why did it feel so me? I knew not why, but continued sporting this combo in hopes it would trigger some insight.<br />
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It didn't. What <i><b>did</b></i> was a post by Marcy Tilton, sharing with her facebook readers <a href="https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=956491291040197&id=159702280719106" target="_blank">her love of designer Carolyn Quartermaine via a little video</a>. While the focus of the video was Carolyn Quartermaine's promotion of toile de jouy, the calligraphy Ms. Quartermaine favored reminded me of <a href="https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&rlz=1C1PRFB_enUS498US507&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=lauren+McIntosh+calligraphy" target="_blank">Lauren McIntosh's own artwork</a>. Lauren McIntosh co-owns <a href="https://www.facebook.com/TailOfTheYak" target="_blank">Berkeley boutique Tail of the Yak </a>with fellow artist Alice Erb. I of course remarked that Lauren McIntosh's personal style was also something to behold.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt9BLE0NnT2cLilWr713ya7k81zgaSU_RXVAQ03oBYWUvvdjJnGFWc0ltVmh7BWjybod_H5lAY92H-DHLHYpHI6zkfAXIYUTxUvPo9bQxpI0eGjEYRwphBv-s8psszPzKTijKq6GQGB3uQ/s1600/DSCN4628.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt9BLE0NnT2cLilWr713ya7k81zgaSU_RXVAQ03oBYWUvvdjJnGFWc0ltVmh7BWjybod_H5lAY92H-DHLHYpHI6zkfAXIYUTxUvPo9bQxpI0eGjEYRwphBv-s8psszPzKTijKq6GQGB3uQ/s1600/DSCN4628.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i><a href="http://stepsofmomoca.blogspot.com/2013/10/lauren-mcintosh.html" target="_blank">Lauren McIntosh with her artwork via hat designer Momoca's blog</a></i></span></td></tr>
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While searching for a picture or two with which to illustrate my point, my abiding love of the ensemble black and white stared me square in the face. <a href="https://instagram.com/minnieolga/" target="_blank">The pictures of Ms. McIntosh i found online, while scarce, </a>solved the mystery of my black and white love affair in an instant.<br />
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If you walked into <a href="https://www.facebook.com/TailOfTheYak" target="_blank">Tail of the Yak</a> today, you would be awed
by the exquisite taste in everything from water glasses, to Victorian-era
mourning jewelry, to hand-cut garlands and 1920’s era French ribbons by the
yard. But you would not be shocked with a through the looking glass punch to
the gut – because Tail of the Yak has been so influential and copied through
the decades. <br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-E-QNA_GMe_c/VcKXZ20XDkI/AAAAAAAAE9s/q24qG6QHKb4/s1600/L%2BMacIntosh%2BTribute%2BA.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-E-QNA_GMe_c/VcKXZ20XDkI/AAAAAAAAE9s/q24qG6QHKb4/s640/L%2BMacIntosh%2BTribute%2BA.jpg" width="409" /></a></div>
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Not so in the early 1980’s. I grew up in Castro Valley, half
an hour south of <st1:city w:st="on">Berkeley to which</st1:city> we’d go on the weekends. I found being so out of place at ‘home’, then 'just
another weirdo' a few miles distant to be more comforting than strange. And in Tail of the Yak, I got a glimpse of people
living the type of life in which my talents and preferences would at least be
accepted, maybe even admired.</div>
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The idea of living with people who didn’t actively scorn me
was arresting enough, but what I really loved about Tail of the Yak was <i><b>looking</b></i>
at everything. I loved the taste and aesthetic and thirstily drank it in.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.remodelista.com/files/styles/733_0s/public/img/sub/uimg/03-2012/700_2012louesa-lauren1216.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://www.remodelista.com/files/styles/733_0s/public/img/sub/uimg/03-2012/700_2012louesa-lauren1216.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i><a href="http://www.remodelista.com/files/styles/733_0s/public/img/sub/uimg/03-2012/700_2012louesa-lauren1216.jpg" target="_blank">from Remodelista: Lauren McIntosh, Artist Doyenne of Berkeley</a></i></span></td></tr>
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On the best visits Lauren McIntosh would be working in the
shop. She’s strikingly beautiful, but more than that I loved her outfits. When first I haunted the store, she wore crisp, full black cotton skirts with white
cotton petticoats, black leather booties, and white or black cotton blouse. She
braided her long black hair and sometimes topped it all off with a straw hat
painted black. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vO4FejJ9nxI/VcKXtsfEbiI/AAAAAAAAE90/eBMJ5rB5Z58/s1600/Extrasia%2BJewelry%2BBlog%2BSize.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vO4FejJ9nxI/VcKXtsfEbiI/AAAAAAAAE90/eBMJ5rB5Z58/s1600/Extrasia%2BJewelry%2BBlog%2BSize.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>jewelry influenced by Tail of the Yak and Ms. MacIntosh herself</i></span></td></tr>
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This stark ensemble created the perfect setting to showcase her
incredible collection of antique (not vintage – antique) European and Mexican
jewelry. Pearls! Cameos! Rose cut diamonds! Antique paste! Earrings from the
Mexican jewelers who sold to Frida Khalo, in business since the days of Spanish
colonialism (I have a pair myself – thank you mom)!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i1.wp.com/blog.isabelallende.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/MakeupBLOG.gif?resize=460%2C273" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i1.wp.com/blog.isabelallende.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/MakeupBLOG.gif?resize=460%2C273" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://blog.isabelallende.com/2015/05/shooting-the-yak/" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>photo from the Real Isabelle Allende's blog</i></span></a></td></tr>
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I haven't the words to convey the atmosphere of Tail of the Yak. I did find a few pictures which may give you a taste of it - here is Isabelle Allende sprucing up Ms. Erb and McIntosh's <i>macquillage</i> <a href="http://craftcouncil.org/magazine/article/international-intrigue" target="_blank">for a photoshoot, later published in American Craft magazine</a>. That's Tail of the Yak in a nutshell.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://ww4.hdnux.com/photos/26/34/41/5884031/3/920x920.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://ww4.hdnux.com/photos/26/34/41/5884031/3/920x920.jpg" height="422" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i><a href="http://www.sfgate.com/travel/streetdate/article/6-places-to-check-out-in-Elmwood-Berkeley-5249183.php" target="_blank">"6 places to check out in the Elmwood" from sfgate</a></i></span></td></tr>
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Intoxicating, and it seemed at the time, utterly beyond my reach. I didn’t have the budget of the target customer, so never got to know anyone with the store (aside from a few conversations with the ethereally delightful Alice Erb, partner in Tail of the Yak and the gentlest, sweetest of souls). So I consciously put aside the idea of being influenced by that milieu.<br />
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Happily, my unconscious was having none of that! I find it so wonderful that our <i>subrosa</i> selves can take inspiration from people and places no matter what 'we' make up our 'minds' to do or not. In this instance certainly my subconscious had very strict and correct views on the matter, and i am grateful to it for showing more common sense than 'me' up here in the brain!</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PnFPgA-AKLk/VcKXEa6toiI/AAAAAAAAE9k/XJN1RjXFfDU/s1600/L.%2BMcTsh%2BTribute%2BH.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PnFPgA-AKLk/VcKXEa6toiI/AAAAAAAAE9k/XJN1RjXFfDU/s640/L.%2BMcTsh%2BTribute%2BH.jpg" width="472" /></a></div>
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I made this double-layered skirt <a href="http://artisanssquare.com/sg/index.php/topic,24964.msg422448.html#msg422448" target="_blank">as part of a Lagenlook Sew Along</a> organized by Garden Girl (Rene) on the <a href="http://artisanssquare.com/sg/index.php" target="_blank">Stitcher's Guild sewing forum</a>. T<a href="http://artisanssquare.com/sg/index.php?action=search2" target="_blank">hese sew alongs started in January and have been quite active</a> - check out the threads for a ton of eye candy, inspiration, and helpful advice. For this double-layered skirt i chose 100% cotton lawn, embroidered in a kind of eyelet/wallpaper stripe. It is easy to sew and very comfortable to wear. (<a href="http://artisanssquare.com/sg/index.php/topic,24964.msg422448.html#msg422448" target="_blank">Click here to see some photos showing the skirt details more clearly.</a>)</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-x6QYYAp4xpk/VcKfm7cJoUI/AAAAAAAAE-E/Zz3xB7Q9u-U/s1600/L%2BMacIntosh%2BTribute%2BC.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-x6QYYAp4xpk/VcKfm7cJoUI/AAAAAAAAE-E/Zz3xB7Q9u-U/s640/L%2BMacIntosh%2BTribute%2BC.jpg" width="439" /></a></div>
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I bought the fabric at <a href="http://www.stonemountainfabric.com/" target="_blank">Stone Mountain and Daughter</a> - at $9 a 54" wide yard, an excellent value. Even more as it has been wearing quite well, no pilling on the embroidery, twisting, etc. I had been kicking myself for not buying more, when last Saturday i went upstairs at Stone Mountain to find the same fabric on sale for half off - I snapped up four yards to make a dress. Thank you fabric fairies!</div>
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Do any of you want to take a guess at what style icons lurk in your own subconscious, working patiently while awaiting the right moment to burst upon your awareness? Maybe you've had a similar realization? Please share!</div>
tinyjuncohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03614867046924013061noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8327217397152414129.post-41794803242695809302015-07-25T09:36:00.000-07:002015-07-25T09:36:33.889-07:00Tina Givens Zelda Slipdress - Luxe in Silk<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GgEbzsL1m3k/VbOz_MhXTGI/AAAAAAAAE6o/V98zQhUIOLw/s1600/Navy%2BZelda%2BNoa%2BNoa%2BA.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GgEbzsL1m3k/VbOz_MhXTGI/AAAAAAAAE6o/V98zQhUIOLw/s1600/Navy%2BZelda%2BNoa%2BNoa%2BA.jpg" /></a></div>
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This make of<a href="http://www.sewtinagivens.com/#!tgp-a3124-zelda-slip--bloomer/cr30" target="_blank"> Tina Givens' Zelda Slip Dress</a> embodies slow sewing. To begin, I'd had the fabric for over a year and a half before i cut into it. I also decided to accent the dress with some lace. I found a beautiful lace, which only came in white. I knew from experience that the lace's rayon/cotton blend takes dye beautifully, so I used RIT dye in navy to create something more in line with the look i had in mind. Dyeing took some time, as did stabilizing the silk crepe de chine at hem, neck and arm openings with spray starch. Cutting my own bias trim (of the <a href="http://dashingeccentric.blogspot.com/2014/11/i-been-busy-v8876-cake-pavlova-j.html" target="_blank">same stretch denim i used for my Marcy Tilton V8876 frock coat</a>) took more labor than buying pre-made. Hand stitching the bias binding also added minutes and hours. As did arranging all those gathers on the ruffles.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-f2eJspmq00s/VbOz-pLbOnI/AAAAAAAAE7A/xhzBGcsN0q4/s1600/Navy%2BZelda%2BE.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-f2eJspmq00s/VbOz-pLbOnI/AAAAAAAAE7A/xhzBGcsN0q4/s1600/Navy%2BZelda%2BE.jpg" /></a></div>
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But what really pushed this one over the slow sewing edge were the changes i made after the dress was nominally complete. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YuJFpxbnCoY/VbOz_cAkGjI/AAAAAAAAE60/SAo4aeJChTw/s1600/Navy%2BZelda%2BNoa%2BNoa%2BB.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YuJFpxbnCoY/VbOz_cAkGjI/AAAAAAAAE60/SAo4aeJChTw/s1600/Navy%2BZelda%2BNoa%2BNoa%2BB.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>The wrap blouse is NoaNoa, <a href="http://sheilaephemera.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">a gift from gorgeously generous Sheila of Ephemera <3 a=""></3></a></i></span></td></tr>
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As soon as i finished this dress i loved wearing it. I bought the fabric at <a href="http://www.stonemountainfabric.com/" target="_blank">Stone Mountain and Daughter </a>and it is simply luscious. Heavy without feeling weighed down, delicious soft soft surface, incredible drape and it turns out it is virtually fray proof. Never leave that store without going upstairs to check out the silk on sale! The sinuous motion of the hem mesmerized me while simply walking around the house. And it's so practical for my life - i can wear it as a nightgown, then toss on a jacket or cardigan and be perfectly presentable to drop Mr. E off at the transit center for his early morning commute.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DKJxcSzrkNk/VbOz_7RQcCI/AAAAAAAAE7M/BbTDy4_Hg3Y/s1600/Navy%2BZelda%2BNoa%2BNoa%2BC.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DKJxcSzrkNk/VbOz_7RQcCI/AAAAAAAAE7M/BbTDy4_Hg3Y/s1600/Navy%2BZelda%2BNoa%2BNoa%2BC.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">fairly swank for a 'just rolled out of bed' look if i say so meself</span></i></td></tr>
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However, as close as this dress was to perfect, i had a couple of thoughts on how to improve it. The whole line is so dramatic, but the color was 'meh'. I wanted to see it in an equally dramatic hue, and loved the navy of the lace. That was an easy choice. Dyeing - easy, but time-consuming.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pHjK-udcnbg/VbO0BjXtN7I/AAAAAAAAE7w/bztKAkZB_II/s1600/Zelda%2BLight%2BBlue%2BC.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pHjK-udcnbg/VbO0BjXtN7I/AAAAAAAAE7w/bztKAkZB_II/s1600/Zelda%2BLight%2BBlue%2BC.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">the original shorter, less ruffly, lighter version</span></i></td></tr>
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The other thing i didn't like was the length in front. My knees felt like they were kind of poking out at center front, and that is not a spot i like my hems to hit generally. (That's why i'm wearing leggings in the pre-navy pictures.) I had a fair amount of fabric left after the first round of slip-making. When i measured this remnant i had just enough to add another ruffle at 6 1/2", behind the original 3" ruffle.<br />
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So i set to. As this silk has a fairly 'bouncey' reaction to being gathered (it poofs out instead of falling straight down) i made random hand-pleats for the added ruffle, instead of running stitches and gathering as i did for the original row of ruffles. Seeing as i was there hand pleating already, i sewed the ruffle on by hand as well. It took about an hour, but i like this length so much better than the shorter version.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-coIQP1o1PGs/VbO0CBTBSdI/AAAAAAAAE7o/XZkXEuUftzI/s1600/Zelda%2BLight%2BBlue%2BD.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-coIQP1o1PGs/VbO0CBTBSdI/AAAAAAAAE7o/XZkXEuUftzI/s1600/Zelda%2BLight%2BBlue%2BD.jpg" /></a></div>
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How much that three and a half inch increase affected my reaction to this dress struck me. It's such a small amount compared to the height of my body, yet made all the difference - like letting out a too-long held breath. I did a bit of calculating, of which accuracy i am not certain, and it looks like three inches is just under 2% of my height (five feet six inches).<br />
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Which leads me to posit that the difference between looking good and having fabulously killer style is that last two percent. Any thoughts?<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jZ5aJh5lSe8/VbOz9zhWibI/AAAAAAAAE6c/EJWbEPNRnAI/s1600/Navy%2BZelda%2BA.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jZ5aJh5lSe8/VbOz9zhWibI/AAAAAAAAE6c/EJWbEPNRnAI/s1600/Navy%2BZelda%2BA.jpg" /></a></div>
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The one part of this dress i'm not so hot on is the neckline. It is fine, just not as excellent as the hem. I'm mulling over converting the bodice part to a strappy cami type of affair, which would be less obtrusive under layering garments as well as cooler and more flattering to wear on it's own. This operation could be trickier than it would seem upon first glance as Tina Givens' wonderful hemlines derive their shapes in part from the length added by the trapeze-shaped side seams.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LZuo9eFs1AM/VbO3BcBoXvI/AAAAAAAAE78/X7gAWJESFJs/s1600/Blue%2BGrey%2BZelda%2BZ.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LZuo9eFs1AM/VbO3BcBoXvI/AAAAAAAAE78/X7gAWJESFJs/s1600/Blue%2BGrey%2BZelda%2BZ.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">here you can get a feel for the shape of this dress</span></i></td></tr>
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My favorite part of this dress is the hem. It's not at all complicated, a very flat curve along the back and an upside down "U" sweep in the front. Somehow, these lines and the way they intersect constantly surprise with new shapes. I'm particularly enamored of the squareish garland-bit which hangs off the corners. Great, original looks from every angle - not a common achievement! No wonder this dress is so popular - it also flatters curvy women outrageously.<br />
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Is going through so much fuss worth it when you end up with something so scandalously luxurious and practical? I always answer "Yes!!" which is why i remain on the slow sewing team. Are you on team slow sewing, or would you rather watch us from the sidelines?<br />
<br />tinyjuncohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03614867046924013061noreply@blogger.com22tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8327217397152414129.post-48851712964942685072015-05-07T10:12:00.000-07:002015-05-08T12:16:23.597-07:00Cirque Dress Vogue 9112<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IfEsUY3ybFw/VUuN6uJfcbI/AAAAAAAAE0s/-J14p2alYko/s1600/Cirque%2Bin%2BAshes%2BG.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IfEsUY3ybFw/VUuN6uJfcbI/AAAAAAAAE0s/-J14p2alYko/s1600/Cirque%2Bin%2BAshes%2BG.jpg" /></a></div>
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This is my second make of this <a href="http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v9112-products-49850.php?page_id=4450&search_control=display&list=search" target="_blank">Marcy Tilton for Vogue Patterns design</a>. I had two lengths of fabric i'd been waiting on sewing up, not having seen the perfect design. This linen digital print i'd been holding for two years.<a href="http://marcytiltonblog.blogspot.com/2015/04/new-marcy-vogue-patterns.html" target="_blank"> As soon as i saw the Cirque dress </a>i hauled those lengths out as fast as i could!<br />
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I will blog about the first dress in future, i made it up with no alterations save adding three inches at the hemline (i'm 5'5 1/2" and active so i prefer a bit more coverage).<span style="font-family: inherit;"> <span style="background-color: white;"><span style="line-height: 17.4720001220703px;">However, while making up the first dress i became utterly enamored of the 'cirques' (the curved, gathered inset pieces along the hem). I also love the hem of my</span><a class="bbc_link" href="http://www.hotpatterns.com/hp-1151-fast-fabulous-lantern-skirt/" style="border-bottom-color: rgb(168, 182, 207); border-bottom-style: solid; border-bottom-width: 1px; line-height: 17.4720001220703px;" target="_blank"><span style="color: #999999;"> Hot Patterns Lantern Skirt</span></a><span style="line-height: 17.4720001220703px;"><span style="color: #999999;">,</span> with it's upside down grin. Why not duplicate the big cirque on the opposite side of the dress, <a href="http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v9112-products-49850.php?page_id=4450&search_control=display&list=search" target="_blank">instead of the original droopy point (which is also fabulous)</a>, and curve the hem like the HP Lantern?</span></span></span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3lcuyNk99sg/VUuN6jICAWI/AAAAAAAAE10/yMARIlSc3kc/s1600/Cirque%2Bin%2BAshes%2BE.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3lcuyNk99sg/VUuN6jICAWI/AAAAAAAAE10/yMARIlSc3kc/s1600/Cirque%2Bin%2BAshes%2BE.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 17.4720001220703px;">I had to see how this idea would turn out. First i sketched out my envisioned design. I used tracing paper, so i could lay my version over the original to discern the differences. Then, i traced out all the pattern pieces (from the instructions sheet) and worked thru which needed no alteration, which did, and sketch out the look of the alterations.</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZJZ-AbZ0isY/VUuN93LwRrI/AAAAAAAAE1U/zc_0Llu-MuI/s1600/Cirque%2Bin%2BAshes%2BSketch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZJZ-AbZ0isY/VUuN93LwRrI/AAAAAAAAE1U/zc_0Llu-MuI/s1600/Cirque%2Bin%2BAshes%2BSketch.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 17.4720001220703px;">With a map in place, i set to drafting. Fortunately i was able to 'hinge' the alterations onto the original pattern pieces, which was less work and fewer pieces to go back in the envelope.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Xi4JlC_GryI/VUuN56YfG7I/AAAAAAAAE0g/3p6bTjGQt_U/s1600/Cirque%2Bin%2BAshes%2BActual%2BBack%2BHem.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Xi4JlC_GryI/VUuN56YfG7I/AAAAAAAAE0g/3p6bTjGQt_U/s1600/Cirque%2Bin%2BAshes%2BActual%2BBack%2BHem.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Front Hem</i></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pqw-Q5DFYpw/VUuN549Eo7I/AAAAAAAAE0k/xP3VKDOXXNo/s1600/Cirque%2Bin%2BAshes%2BBack%2BHem.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pqw-Q5DFYpw/VUuN549Eo7I/AAAAAAAAE0k/xP3VKDOXXNo/s1600/Cirque%2Bin%2BAshes%2BBack%2BHem.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Back Hem</i></span></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 17.4720001220703px;">I had some concerns about how the hem would come out in the front. As you can see here, the back hem is symmetrical but the front came out a bit asymmetrical. I could have trimmed it to make it even, but i like the way that it echoes the uneven hem of the original. So it stayed.</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vspB0QUWajg/VUuN89KeJHI/AAAAAAAAE1M/iW4FgD3Lmx4/s1600/Cirque%2Bin%2BAshes%2BL.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vspB0QUWajg/VUuN89KeJHI/AAAAAAAAE1M/iW4FgD3Lmx4/s1600/Cirque%2Bin%2BAshes%2BL.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 17.4720001220703px;">I also wanted to emphasize the look of the piecing in this dress through contrasting light and dark. This required a bit of fiddling with the layout, fortunately i managed to pull it off. In the picture above you can see the shape of one cirque clearly - though usually my arms are in the way, didn't think of that beforehand!</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SqzrS3GPwhc/VUuN-IR1CiI/AAAAAAAAE1c/Y7BB7Kc8ETE/s1600/Cirque%2Bin%2BAshes%2Bf.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SqzrS3GPwhc/VUuN-IR1CiI/AAAAAAAAE1c/Y7BB7Kc8ETE/s1600/Cirque%2Bin%2BAshes%2Bf.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 17.4720001220703px;">I don't have a lot more to say about this dress, except this.I finished it last Saturday, today is Thursday, and i've already worn it three days. It also mixes quite well. The way the colors work with this little jacket of overdyed linen kind of shocked me, in a "happy shocky" way. It also looks very cool with your basic denim jean jacket.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 17.4720001220703px;">This dress is a slam dunk if you are a fan of Marcy Tilton's V8876, with a few added bonuses (bonii?). With no closures, this dress is faster and easier to make. And it requires about a yard less fabric; combined with the lack of closure you can make it for less money as well.</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CBUEiSeqhjg/VUuN7tJmLJI/AAAAAAAAE04/neRSkoHDayM/s1600/Cirque%2Bin%2BAshes%2BJ.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CBUEiSeqhjg/VUuN7tJmLJI/AAAAAAAAE04/neRSkoHDayM/s1600/Cirque%2Bin%2BAshes%2BJ.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 17.4720001220703px;">I bought he fabric from </span><a href="http://www.marcytilton.com/index.php?cid=903&page=1" style="line-height: 17.4720001220703px;" target="_blank">Marcy Tilton's online shop</a><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 17.4720001220703px;">, though as i bought it two years ago it is long gone. It is </span><a href="http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/filebin/images/product_images/First_Full/V8876.jpg" style="line-height: 17.4720001220703px;" target="_blank">the same fabric used in one of the dresses on the envelope picture for V8876</a><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 17.4720001220703px;">. I fell so hard for that fabric, but at around $50 a yard it was way out of my price range. </span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8yOlc7VpOnM/VUuN8dziitI/AAAAAAAAE1A/5v8gxGwnfrw/s1600/Cirque%2Bin%2BAshes%2BK.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8yOlc7VpOnM/VUuN8dziitI/AAAAAAAAE1A/5v8gxGwnfrw/s1600/Cirque%2Bin%2BAshes%2BK.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 17.4720001220703px;">Happily for me, Ms. Tilton had a little online contest which i won. The prize was a gift certificate to her fabric store - there was never any doubt about what i would buy with that prize!</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 17.4720001220703px;">In these closer photos you can see the way that the print falls apart as you approach the fabric, as well as some of the incredibly flattering and unusual colors: deep blackberry, burnt raspberry, paled-out frosted blueberry, toasted juice of lemon. Using fabrics like this one is a big reason why i love love love to sew - and why i love love love to wear what i sew.</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cCXkzsQiuVs/VUuN7ZK2a_I/AAAAAAAAE1I/xjR2Y5Musw0/s1600/Cirque%2Bin%2BAshes%2BH.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cCXkzsQiuVs/VUuN7ZK2a_I/AAAAAAAAE1I/xjR2Y5Musw0/s1600/Cirque%2Bin%2BAshes%2BH.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 17.4720001220703px;">This dress design, while it had its detractors in the beginning, is getting Big Love in the sewing community. </span><a href="http://kf-biblioblog.blogspot.com/2015/04/marcys-cirque-dress-v-9112.html" style="line-height: 17.4720001220703px;" target="_blank">Maresea of Biblioblog was first across the line with her soignee take</a><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 17.4720001220703px;"> (check out her perfect hair!) and <a href="http://marcytiltonblog.blogspot.com/2015/04/lbd-for-spring-in-provence.html" target="_blank">Marcy showcased her neighbor Carol's bubbly LBD, elastic neckline version</a> on her blog. </span><a href="https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=919113314777995&id=159702280719106" style="line-height: 17.4720001220703px;" target="_blank">Liana Hanson sketched out her plans prior to sewing</a><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 17.4720001220703px;"> up an on-trend color blocked version, and T</span><a href="http://sewsophisticated.blogspot.com/2015/04/beetle-mania-dress-and-top.html" style="line-height: 17.4720001220703px;" target="_blank">erri makes beetles elegant in the way no one else can</a><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 17.4720001220703px;">. </span><a href="https://www.facebook.com/159702280719106/photos/a.167899509899383.31316.159702280719106/918684621487531/?type=1" style="line-height: 17.4720001220703px;" target="_blank">Karen Kline's white eyelet version </a><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 17.4720001220703px;">has me seriously eyeing eyelet fabrics for my own. Edited to add: <a href="http://dragonthreadsopenbook.blogspot.com/2015_04_01_archive.html" target="_blank">Dragonthreads made this flabbergastingly glorious Cirque dress of various asian fabrics</a>. Draw-jopping! (hmm, think i'll leave that typo). Scroll down to the bottom of the post to view. And check out another take on how <a href="http://thanksimadethem.blogspot.com/2015/04/sunshine-lollipops-rainbows-and-vogue.html" target="_blank">elegant and beautiful this dress makes up in a solid color at Thanks! I Made Them! Sew Can</a> You (best sewing blog name ever).</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 17.4720001220703px;"><i>Edited Once Again:</i> Eagle-eyed reader Kate set me straight on a fact - glorious Bianca has the first make here at <i>two days</i> prior to Mary. (Who knew this post would turn into a 'breaking news - this just in' style story?) However the two of them are tied in my book for letting the classy and dare-I-say ladylike side of this design shine. Thank you Kate! Readers may want to take a look at a <a href="http://irtntob.blogspot.com/2013/07/catch-up-on-sewing.html" target="_blank">wardrobe of classic Tilton Sister dresses Kate made for her 2013 summer</a> - from stash, yet! </span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 17.4720001220703px;">Yes, of course i want to make at least two more Cirque dresses. Pronto! Don't let all the volume scare you off - choose a fabric with some drape (lightweight linen and cotton lawn or voile are both easy choices), fit through the bust and go for it! We'll all be so admiring as you exude cool chic whilst we wilt in the heat.</span>tinyjuncohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03614867046924013061noreply@blogger.com17tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8327217397152414129.post-23530440186753252502015-04-19T13:05:00.002-07:002015-04-19T13:05:52.119-07:00Bruyere Blouse and Briare Slip<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-umgLlNPK_1U/VTQFw6jq5OI/AAAAAAAAEeQ/zcC1_8LZUtc/s1600/Bruyere%2B%26%2BBriare%2BC%2B4%2B19%2B15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-umgLlNPK_1U/VTQFw6jq5OI/AAAAAAAAEeQ/zcC1_8LZUtc/s1600/Bruyere%2B%26%2BBriare%2BC%2B4%2B19%2B15.jpg" /></a></div>
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I have accomplished some sewing towards my 'hot days' wardrobe, which is alarmingly scanty this year.</div>
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The blouse is <a href="http://boutique.deer-and-doe.fr/chemise-bruyere.html" target="_blank">the Bruyere by Deer and Doe</a>. It is the first pattern i've used by this company and the fit is quite nice on my figure. I added 1" of length to the bodice and made no other changes. I like the fit, i like the design, i like the idea of drafting to remove the waistband and trying different hems, even lengthening the whole shebang into a dress. Not to mention the possibilities of sleeves! The Bruyere very well could end up a being a TNT for me ("tried and true" pattern). </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AUIH8szMVMk/VTQFwA6cqNI/AAAAAAAAEes/TBDRcp_xFFc/s1600/Bruyere%2B%26%2BBriare%2BA%2B4%2B19%2B15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AUIH8szMVMk/VTQFwA6cqNI/AAAAAAAAEes/TBDRcp_xFFc/s1600/Bruyere%2B%26%2BBriare%2BA%2B4%2B19%2B15.jpg" /></a></div>
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I chose a linen/rayon fabric and embellished it using the same <a href="http://dashingeccentric.blogspot.com/2015/03/rose-strewn-riding-peplum.html" target="_blank">Alabama Chanin inspired technique which i used on the Riding Peplum</a>. For this blouse i used <a href="http://alabamachanin.com/resources/paisley-stencil-artwork" target="_blank">the Paisley stencil</a>.</div>
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Underneath is my first go at a <a href="http://www.sewtinagivens.com/#!briare-slip/c1p02" target="_blank">Tina Givens design, the freebee Briare slip</a>. Many ladies have commented on the voluminous drafting on Tina Givens's patterns, and some have compensated for this in various ways <a href="http://spottydogsocialclub.blogspot.ca/2015/03/out-of-alberta-my-tina-givens-style.html" target="_blank">(such as substituting another bodice like the Sorbetto as twotoast has done here</a>). But i wanted to try something different, thus i made this one up as drafted in a very airy cotton voile.</div>
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The neckline and armholes both are nicely modest. I really love the huge sweep of the hem, and this slip works beautifully with a lot of pieces i already have in my wardrobe which surprised me. </div>
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I am now on the lookout for fabric i can use to make up some more of Ms. Givens' designs as they are not only fun to sew and wear but also very practical for the hot days in this area. They do require a lot of fabric so i am glad i sewed up a freebee using less expensive material on my first go. I'll feel more confident shelling out some real dough next time.</div>
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Did i say this voile was very very sheer? It is indeed! I will need to wear a slip under this slip to wear it as a dress!</div>
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This winter has been nasty with various colds and flus around here. I got a bug about three weeks ago which devolved into a sinus infection...thankfully i'm on antibiotics which are helping. I appreciated the ease of construction of the Briare slip, as my mental capacity was and is on the low end due to all this infection and it was a treat to be able to do something besides moaning around the house.</div>
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For anyone interested in these lagenlook designs, head on over to <a href="http://artisanssquare.com/sg/index.php" target="_blank">Stitcher's Guild Forum</a> and check out the Lagelook Sewalongs which Garden Girl (Rene) is hosting.<a href="http://artisanssquare.com/sg/index.php/topic,24860.0.html" target="_blank"> I made the Briare Slip as part of one of these sewalongs</a>, it is great motivation and the members a tremendous source of knowledge. </div>
tinyjuncohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03614867046924013061noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8327217397152414129.post-67681302595110364312015-03-14T10:09:00.001-07:002015-03-14T10:09:08.469-07:00Bride of Frankenpattern<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Frankenpattern: <i><a href="http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=frankenpattern" target="_blank">"<span style="background-color: white; color: #2c353c; font-size: 16px; line-height: 22.3999996185303px;">To pattern using multiple styles and mis-matched pattern pieces. The end result is a combination of the garments that leaves the patternmaker horrified as to how it was put together, but usually no one else knows that from the end result. (phew!)"</span></a></i></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #2c353c; font-size: 16px; line-height: 22.3999996185303px;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Yes, dear reader, i too have fallen prey to this internet fad! Actually, i have been all about frankenpatterning since before the <a href="http://www.jacquesvallee.net/heart_of_the_internet.html" target="_blank">internet was a gleam in </a><a href="http://guymalone.com/ufological.htm" target="_blank">Jacques Vallee's </a><a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=jacques+vallee&rlz=1C1PRFB_enUS498US507&espv=2&biw=1153&bih=798&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=lF0EVZuyB9PUoATM1YLIBQ&sqi=2&ved=0CAkQ_AUoBA#imgdii=_" target="_blank">sleepy French eyes</a>. Sometimes, whilst working over a long period of time with various shapes, one is struck with inspo as to a different way to 'solve the puzzle', as it were. Conversely, one may incur a yen for a particular garment and whilst ruminating realize that various pieces already in one's possession may combine to produce an item damn close to the desired result.</span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #2c353c; font-size: 16px; line-height: 22.3999996185303px;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Frankly i forget which way this one came about...however from the moment i saw my beloved Beatrice dress (<a href="http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v8876-products-44848.php?page_id=857" target="_blank">Marcy Tilton's best selling Vogue 8876</a>) i knew i would love a skirt with a similar vibe. I also knew it would be difficult if not impossible to pull off, given the amount of ease at the waist. You either take out a lot of fabric and lose the line, or place a metric ton of gathers/pleats/combo of both at the waist and lose the graceful line.</span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #2c353c; font-size: 16px; line-height: 22.3999996185303px;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Which is why the Beatrice is a dress, not a skirt.</span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #2c353c; font-size: 16px; line-height: 22.3999996185303px;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I've also really enjoyed my version of Hot Pattern's Lantern Skirt. I made it a couple of years ago in natural linen; it is incredibly useful, comfortable, mixable and provides an awesome line with which to work while creating outfits. When i saw this <a href="http://www.stonemountainfabric.com/" target="_blank">gorgeous olive drab linen at Stone Mountain and Daughters</a> i snapped some up with another lantern-type skirt in mind.</span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #2c353c; font-size: 16px; line-height: 22.3999996185303px;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">The Bride of Frankenpattern skirt combines three patterns from three different designers. Starting from the top: Waistband and pockets by <a href="http://seamsterpatterns.com/product/honeydew-skirt/" target="_blank">Mari Miller of Seamster Designs Honeydew Skirt</a>; skirt front and back pieces by <a href="http://www.hotpatterns.com/hp-1178-weekender-chameleon-dress/" target="_blank">Trudy of Hot Pattern's HP1178 Weekender Chameleon Dress</a>; hem bands by <a href="http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v8876-products-44848.php?page_id=857" target="_blank">Marcy Tilton of Vogue Patterns V8876</a> "The Beatrice Dress". In the process of making this skirt i altered each of these pattern pieces ( the skirt pieces pretty significantly), but they provided a great starting point. </span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #2c353c; font-size: 16px; line-height: 22.3999996185303px;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I'm especially taken with the 'magic lantern' shape i made at the back of the skirt, it's kind of squarish with the corners rounded off which adds a nice dimensionality to the skirt as seen from the side. Next version of this idea will exaggerate this effect. I'll also lessen the hi-lo differential from front to back. And stabilize the side seams where the pockets insert - i skipped this step and they bag out like crazy!</span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="color: #2c353c;"><span style="line-height: 22.3999996185303px;">I'll take this occasion to announce i've acquired another scarf! Always a banner day in my closet, as i wear scarves just about every day of the year yet am chronically short of them. This beauty is china silk with a black/inky blue/inky violet design over cream, found at <a href="http://www.averbforkeepingwarm.com/" target="_blank">A Verb For Keeping Warm</a>. Mr. E put his hand on this roll of fabric, there was one and one quarter yards left - a perfect square. I took it home, washed it in hot water and olive oil castille, trimmed the selvedges and along the straight of grain, starched the hell out of the edges and stitched two lines in from the edges. Scarf!</span></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="color: #2c353c;"><span style="line-height: 22.3999996185303px;">Anyone anywhere near the SF Bay Area should drop into <a href="http://www.averbforkeepingwarm.com/collections/sewing-patterns" target="_blank">a verb</a>. The space is generous and gorgeous, massive gobs of natural light pour in from the west facing windows. There's a really nice sized work/class space with plenty of classes offered in knitting, dyeing and garment construction. The highlight for me is the huge selection of natural fiber garment-useful yardage from all over the world. Handwoven African cottons, Liberty of London lawn, more Japanese cottons than i have seen in many online shops - all there for ogling and hugging! Notions from London and France (though i didn't see any underpants). Paper patterns from all corners of the USA, France, London, <a href="http://www.averbforkeepingwarm.com/collections/sewing-patterns" target="_blank">their own house line</a>, and more!</span></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="color: #2c353c;"><span style="line-height: 22.3999996185303px;">This shop is stellar, i could not be more excited about this new(ish) player on the fibre scene. <a href="http://www.averbforkeepingwarm.com/collections/frontpage/products/movie-night" target="_blank">They even have movie nights! </a>What cold be more fun? </span></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="color: #2c353c;"><span style="line-height: 22.3999996185303px;">I have to laugh at myself, though. I never could make sense of the name, and happened to mention my conundrum to an online penpal. He immediately wrote back: "Making clothes is what you do to keep warm." Okaaaaay - well, put it <i><b>that</b></i> way it's utterly obvious! Sometimes when we get too close to things we lose our perspective. </span></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="color: #2c353c;"><span style="line-height: 22.3999996185303px;">Happy Saturday!</span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #2c353c; font-size: 16px; line-height: 22.3999996185303px;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></span>tinyjuncohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03614867046924013061noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8327217397152414129.post-90054753383074869562015-03-04T08:48:00.001-08:002015-03-04T08:48:42.904-08:00Rose Strewn Riding Peplum<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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As soon as i became aware of<a href="http://alabamachanin.com/collection/collection" target="_blank"> Natalie Chanin's wonderful stencil and applique technique</a>, i knew how i wanted to use it in my own wardrobe. I saw low contrast, neutral-toned stencils and stitching on single layer linen.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mW6KG6AjnXE/VPcuD65Uo1I/AAAAAAAAEZ8/skVMn6xWjwI/s1600/Rose%2BPeplum%2BSkny%2BJn%2BAK%2BJkt%2BLntrn%2BHat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mW6KG6AjnXE/VPcuD65Uo1I/AAAAAAAAEZ8/skVMn6xWjwI/s1600/Rose%2BPeplum%2BSkny%2BJn%2BAK%2BJkt%2BLntrn%2BHat.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>I'd say the droopy eyes are due to lack of coffee - but i'm a tea drinker!</i></td></tr>
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Here is my first attempt. I loved the <a href="http://april-rhodes.com/products/new-the-riding-peplum-or-party-dress" target="_blank">Riding Peplum's strong, sweeping lines</a>. At the same time, the pattern pieces are big and simple, a great canvas for showcasing fabric embellishment.<br />
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I used Alabama Chanin's Rose Placement Stencil (<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yz06T49LyDI/T7PQXEpWocI/AAAAAAAAB9k/nReVN-wxPC8/s1600/Jack+Daniels+tee+a+may+2012.jpg" target="_blank">which i had used previously on a tee</a>) and acrylic fabric paint and medium to create the roses (<a href="http://alabamachanin.com/resources" target="_blank">the stencil can be downloaded from this page </a>- scroll down). Then i started stitching. I stitched about half of the roses right at the edge of the paint, the others i eyeballed a margin of around a quarter inch between the stitching and the paint.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7zCx3xXdORQMPDtV5TMmNputKUqNG-MArUJsnoaMo674JpN8fQ0HWx_JjFvbctWJ2mi3XgBap0icJNTb2Ug4Fz6HcXMzURJYNO_cOoakeZu479_nyuyeyhrnLkKkT7ijDeRXZDk7NufQ/s1600/AC+Style+Roses+on+Riding+Peplum+D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7zCx3xXdORQMPDtV5TMmNputKUqNG-MArUJsnoaMo674JpN8fQ0HWx_JjFvbctWJ2mi3XgBap0icJNTb2Ug4Fz6HcXMzURJYNO_cOoakeZu479_nyuyeyhrnLkKkT7ijDeRXZDk7NufQ/s1600/AC+Style+Roses+on+Riding+Peplum+D.jpg" /></a></div>
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I used those triangular makeup sponges you get at the drugstore to do the stenciling. I like the crumpled effect you get from the edges of the sponges. The project took awhile, but was not onerous.<br />
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I really love the way it turned out! As you know, i constantly complain about not being able to find fascinating, low-contrast detailed fabrics. <a href="https://plus.google.com/photos/105157962178773912858/albums/5915442999834810673" target="_blank">Traditional Alabama Chanin style fabric embellishment</a>, with two layers of cotton jersey, is overly warm for a large part of the year around here. Using this technique i can get the look without having to take salt pills ;)<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WeyP6n4dWGU/VPcuC3ka0nI/AAAAAAAAEZo/pMfA7iOGJbk/s1600/Rose%2BPeplum%2BSkny%2BJn%2BAK%2BJkt%2BLntrn%2BHat%2BB.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WeyP6n4dWGU/VPcuC3ka0nI/AAAAAAAAEZo/pMfA7iOGJbk/s1600/Rose%2BPeplum%2BSkny%2BJn%2BAK%2BJkt%2BLntrn%2BHat%2BB.jpg" /></a></div>
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Yesterday I purchased <a href="http://boutique.deer-and-doe.fr/chemise-bruyere.html" target="_blank">Deer and Doe's Bruyere Chemise</a> after seeing <a href="http://seamstresserin.com/month-in-review-february-2015/" target="_blank">Seamstress Erin's beautiful chambray version</a> while eating breakfast. I have a length of white linen which i will make up first, and an Alabama Chanin paisley stencil which i cut out months ago but which has yet to be used (<a href="http://alabamachanin.com/resources" target="_blank">link here, scroll down again</a>). I am thrilled to start on such a useful and stunning garment - white linen blouses have been more and more in play in my recent outfits.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GN-M04-wKQc/VPcuCx7IrKI/AAAAAAAAEZs/_a7J6PzbM9g/s1600/Rose%2BPeplum%2BSkny%2BJn%2BAK%2BJkt%2BLntrn%2BHat%2BA.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GN-M04-wKQc/VPcuCx7IrKI/AAAAAAAAEZs/_a7J6PzbM9g/s1600/Rose%2BPeplum%2BSkny%2BJn%2BAK%2BJkt%2BLntrn%2BHat%2BA.jpg" /></a></div>
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I cannot help but play with hemlines. The hems of the Riding Peplum and the jacket balance each other out by moving in two opposite directions, so even though there's a lot going on it's not jarring. The low contrast between the two low-saturation garments keeps things from being too crazy as well. I always enjoy echoing the lantern shape of this hat by wearing a similarly shaped peplum or skirt. As these jeans approach the end of their useful life, i am happy to report that Uniqlo's $40 jeans are a good fit on me. I just need to get my hiney motivated to buy a pair!<br />
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I experienced an interesting synchronicity whilst working on this garment, centered around roses. Curious readers can find the story here. Even without reading the synchronicity, it's obvious that i adore roses in clothing and jewelry. Do any of you have similar talismans?<br />
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">p.s. i don't want to say anything about posting more coming up in case i jinx it! Please help me by pretending you never read this "p.s." - & have a wonderful day!</span></i><br />
<br />tinyjuncohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03614867046924013061noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8327217397152414129.post-85695286999962684832014-11-15T10:06:00.002-08:002014-11-15T10:06:47.038-08:00I Been Busy! V8876, Cake Pavlova, J. Peterman ReFashion<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0mx5dGeqFXs/VGUQo_qBUDI/AAAAAAAAEUs/ah6riwtYkGc/s1600/26a%2BOct%2B2014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0mx5dGeqFXs/VGUQo_qBUDI/AAAAAAAAEUs/ah6riwtYkGc/s1600/26a%2BOct%2B2014.jpg" /></a></div>
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It's a Dashing Eccentric post jam-packed with fresh weirdness!<br />
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Or, rather, all new clothes.<br />
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I'll start with the star, my newest version of the Beatrice, <a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=vogue+8876&rlz=1C1PRFB_enUS498US507&es_sm=93&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=DYhnVNn2FoKcigLSqYDgAw&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAg&biw=1356&bih=785" target="_blank">Marcy Tilton's nationwide best seller Vogue Pattern 8876</a>. For my third version of this gorgeous and useful design, i added sleeves and left off the hem bands to make a species of frock coat in stretch denim. It came together easily (after all that practice it should) and I love wearing it. I purchased the stretch cotton denim from <a href="http://www.stonemountainfabric.com/" target="_blank">Stone Mountain and Daughter</a>, it's terrifically comfortable and is wearing well. <a href="http://www.marcytilton.com/index.php?cid=903" target="_blank">Marcy Tilton</a> <a href="http://www.marcytilton.com/item.php?pid=16920&cid=903" target="_blank">has some</a><a href="http://www.marcytilton.com/item.php?pid=17121&cid=903" target="_blank"> very similar</a> <a href="http://www.marcytilton.com/item.php?pid=16959&cid=903" target="_blank">denims in beautiful prints</a> <a href="http://www.marcytilton.com/item.php?pid=16946&cid=903" target="_blank">for sale </a>right now;<a href="http://www.marcytilton.com/item.php?pid=17122&cid=903" target="_blank"> i've been mulling over the Havilland for a while now</a>. This frock coat is so easy to wear and so fun i may have to pull the trigger - <a href="http://iveyabitz.com/2014holiday/14.php" target="_blank">a duster in the vein of Ivey Abitz </a>would be devastatingly chic.<br />
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As it happens, i'd been eyeing the light colorway of this fabric on <a href="http://www.marcytilton.com/index.php?cid=17" target="_blank">Marcy Tilton's website</a> for a couple of weeks when i saw the darker colorway for sale at <a href="http://www.stonemountainfabric.com/" target="_blank">Stone Mountain</a> almost a year ago. I liked the darker version better for winter/fall so i snapped it up. As much as the internet has cut into brick and mortar sales, this is the third or fourth length of fabric i've purchased at<a href="http://www.stonemountainfabric.com/" target="_blank"> Stone Mountain</a> after seeing a similar style online and having time to gauge it's usefulness in my wardrobe. I do my best to apportion my fabric budget between the various stores which i want to stay in business.<br />
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I chose a separating zipper in an antique bronze hard plastic for the closure. I added a large hook and eye just under the bust for another closure option. Not much to say that hasn't been said already about this great design (much of it by me), <a href="https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.829725570383437.1073741903.159702280719106&type=1" target="_blank">though here you can see a mind-bogglingly sweet endorsement of this piece if you click through</a>. I'm still seeing sparkles!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5iB5W3oP8Q3SlHaO9OaydcyyYxtG85RAxKNSlJLInsyvmBmFcm4BMUpLVHaxpBOu9oAZ6vlxZ-QcQPz9zkJRv8_LVVtRRA6Ou8TFWB82QiK96Ncv-aNO_nHzWZ0gu6bAmQ5hcP02hlbA/s1600/26d+Oct+2014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5iB5W3oP8Q3SlHaO9OaydcyyYxtG85RAxKNSlJLInsyvmBmFcm4BMUpLVHaxpBOu9oAZ6vlxZ-QcQPz9zkJRv8_LVVtRRA6Ou8TFWB82QiK96Ncv-aNO_nHzWZ0gu6bAmQ5hcP02hlbA/s1600/26d+Oct+2014.jpg" /></a></div>
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I made the polka dot top using <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/151129558/pdf-pavlova-wrap-top-cake-patterns-0169?ref=shop_home_active_22" target="_blank">Cake's Pavlova Wrap Top pattern</a>. This is my first version of this pattern. What an easy, rewarding, useful make! And this draft works<i> wonderfully</i> for a bigger bust. I cut the rayon/lycra ITY fabric out in size 35 with no alterations, stitched it up (by hand, still sans machine), and bob's your uncle. All the pluses of a wrap top - sleek fit, adapts to changing sizes - with no downside of gaping at the bust. You can wrap this top over or under the bust; here i'm wearing it under and still no gaping. There's plenty of room to wrap over the bust as well, with even less likelihood of gaping. I cut the longer sleeve option at just past the elbow, my fave length. <a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=pavlova+wrap+top&rlz=1C1PRFB_enUS498US507&espv=2&biw=1356&bih=785&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=q5FnVLv4LI_2iQL0poDADw&ved=0CCgQsAQ#tbm=isch&q=pavlova+wrap+top+short+sleeve" target="_blank">Pavlova offers a shorter sleeve length</a> as well.<br />
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I was delighted to see a lengthen/shorten line clearly marked on the pattern. This is a major plus, as figuring out where/how to lengthen this design would be tricky. I have two more lengths of fabric who've been looking for their best pattern and now find themselves in the pipeline to become Pavlovas (<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-C9ahq0jsBFs/UoOGtWyrRVI/AAAAAAAADgg/SAA5Got_g6Y/s1600/24b+oct+2013.jpg" target="_blank">one is the rest of the digital print</a> i used for these leggings) . You can wear the Pavlova alone, over a tank or long sleeved tee. Sweet! I am very happy to have a new TNT for winter wear. <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/SewingCake?ref=l2-shopheader-name" target="_blank">Thank you Cake!!</a><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bSTN_B45tmc/VGU218av_oI/AAAAAAAAEVk/gI0jbQMT910/s1600/J.%2BPeterman%2BBefore.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bSTN_B45tmc/VGU218av_oI/AAAAAAAAEVk/gI0jbQMT910/s320/J.%2BPeterman%2BBefore.jpg" width="375" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Original MaxiDress</i></td></tr>
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Underneath it all i'm wearing a black silk slipdress - oohlala! It started out as a maxi dress from <a href="http://www.jpeterman.com/!ihczszBZGQuhD-uOra-RnQ!/Women" target="_blank">J. Peterman</a>, via my fairy godmother (next door neighbor who volunteers at a charity consignment shop and sends goodies my way). The bottom 3-4" at the back hem were kind of chewed up, so i knew i wanted to hem that away. I also wanted to change the fit through the torso. The original looks okay from the front, but from the side view all that shockingly abrupt ballooning around the bazooms did not create the elegant line i covet. I removed the band, took a couple of small darts under the bust, and gathered in the skirts to the bodice. This created a bit of shaping without too much trouble and allowed me to keep the pockets (yay).<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The following picture shows the hand stitching better than this one does</i></td></tr>
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The original dress bodice had wide facings with an acetate lining. I prefer the feel and drape of silk, so i removed the lining and hand stitched the facings through to the right side of the dress using contrasting topstitching thread. Luxurious to wear and a great look.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2K0UTSm77SQ/VGeN2-HJX6I/AAAAAAAAEXo/SIppUt1eNBc/s1600/J.%2BPeterman%2BBlack%2BSilk%2BReFashion%2BA.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2K0UTSm77SQ/VGeN2-HJX6I/AAAAAAAAEXo/SIppUt1eNBc/s1600/J.%2BPeterman%2BBlack%2BSilk%2BReFashion%2BA.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Hand stitching nicely captured</i></td></tr>
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I originally changed the hem to get <a href="http://iveyabitz.com/shop/56-703/Clemmie-Frock.php" target="_blank">the effect of an Ivey Abitz frock</a>, but the overall silhouette wasn't working. I would need more fitting through the torso to balance out all that weight and commotion, and it would be a huge amount of work to change the silhouette if it were even possible. I knew i would like to be able to wear this piece as a slip, so i just hemmed the dress to echo the shape of <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lNg9dS1eX-Q/UelUznC1yFI/AAAAAAAAC2k/KZrOMTruCHg/s1600/17e+jul+2013.jpg" target="_blank">the V8876/Beatrice dress i made in black and white linen</a>, just an inch or so longer, and loved the result.<br />
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Whew! the needles have been flying! I've not got much done the last couple of weeks, as DH and i got down to brass tacks and bought a new car. We've had our Scion XA for ten years now so it was time. Our new car is an automatic transmission and driving it is so much easier on my leg!<br />
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The weather has turned cool as well, so i am busy re-making a distressed cashmere cardigan into elbow length fingerless gloves.<a href="http://artisanry.blogspot.com/2014/11/snowpocalyplse-not-exactly.html" target="_blank"> Over at Acorn Cottage Indigo Tiger is tackling an entire 6PAC designed to keep a girl warm</a> - scrumptious! Is your wardrobe ready for winter?tinyjuncohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03614867046924013061noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8327217397152414129.post-31905078347132158512014-11-07T15:38:00.002-08:002014-11-07T17:16:43.493-08:00Make Your Own Three Tier Skirt<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I received some interest from Shelley regarding how to make this skirt. I made it without using a pattern, but it's super easy. So i wrote up some notes and made a video. I hope it's useful enough for any interested parties with some sewing experience under their belt to whip up one of these skirts on their own.<br />
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To recap on the general construction steps: I first would cut out the inner skirt/tube and the tiers. Then i would mark the placement of the two top tiers while the inner skirt is still flat. (The bottom tier is placed right along the hem so no marking is needed.) Next sew up the center back seam, and finish the hem and the waistband.<br />
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<b>ON EDIT</b>: i realized i haven't addressed the issue of 'how big around do you want the inner skirt to be". In the end it depends on how much ease you want. If you're using an elastic waistband, you need the skirt to go over the widest part of your hips. You will also need ease for when you sit and move - more for a woven fabric and less for stretch. If you're using a stretch with 5% or more lycra you may want your finished circumference to just be the same as the widest part of your hips plus an inch or two.<br />
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For woven, non-stretch fabrics you will need more. My hips measure around 37", the finished circumference of this inner skirt is 43" at the hem (the darts at the waist take out a couple of inches). That is 6" ease. If you are a lot smaller around you may want less ease, much bigger or taller and you may want more. My ease of 6" is 16% of my hip measurement of 37" so try starting out with adding 15% of your hip measurement as ease. Baste up a tube of that circumference in your fabric and try it on to see how you like it. Be sure to try sitting down in your mock-up as some of our hips spread out more than you might expect when we sit. <b>END EDIT</b><br />
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For the tiers: Sew any seams needed to form the tiers into tubes. Finish the upper edges and finish the hems/apply trim (I used a narrow machine hem of 1/2"). Make your gathering stitches along the upper edges (i find that two lines of stitches about 1/4" are easier to work with. I also recommend that you divide your stitches into at least two halves - so you would have gathering stitches run all along the half of the tier going on the front of the skirt and having thread tails at the beginning and end of that sections. Then start another set of gathering stitches with thread tails beginning and end for the back half instead of trying to adjust your gathers all around the entire skirt in one go. <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tO3ghcocAOU" target="_blank">Here's a nice video on the basics of gathering fabric</a>.) Lastly, adjust your gathers and sew on your tiers.<br />
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You're done.<br />
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A few more bits of information. This skirt hits me below the knee and a bit above mid-calf and i'm five foot five and a half inches - this may help you with your own dimensions. I forgot to mention that i have an overlap between the top of the two bottom tiers and the hem of the tier above - about 3/4". I believe i was shooting for a 1" overlap but my calculations got away from me. I think as long as there isn't a gap you will be okay.<br />
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Most importantly - please let me know if you have any questions! And have fun sewing, whatever you make.tinyjuncohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03614867046924013061noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8327217397152414129.post-26631825456838658382014-10-12T12:10:00.001-07:002014-10-12T12:10:42.025-07:00Vogue 8932 - Made in Blueberry Fleece<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QXm4lbc_TPk/VDrNNGVwF9I/AAAAAAAAESc/Nkv87HYzv5A/s1600/V8932%2BBluberry%2BFleece%2BD.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QXm4lbc_TPk/VDrNNGVwF9I/AAAAAAAAESc/Nkv87HYzv5A/s1600/V8932%2BBluberry%2BFleece%2BD.jpg" /></a></div>
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Hi! First, i'm getting over a throat bug and the sinus irritation and dehydration is showing on my squinty, frazzled features. Please ignore my expression, i'm actually quite thrilled with <a href="http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v8932-products-47559.php?page_id=262" target="_blank">this nice jacket pattern from Vogue</a> and am on the lookout for fabric to make the next version.<br />
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I've been fairly productive sewing-wise the last couple of months, making a few warm pieces for the upcoming cooler seasons. Unfortunately for 'wear it now!' me, we've been having nice hot days (85-90F+). Ah well, i will be well prepared when things cool down and i am sure i will enjoy this new sensation.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZhRrL5W64Sg/VDrNwJQHDcI/AAAAAAAAESk/unzkpBXSa-0/s1600/V8932%2BBluberry%2BFleece%2BB.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZhRrL5W64Sg/VDrNwJQHDcI/AAAAAAAAESk/unzkpBXSa-0/s1600/V8932%2BBluberry%2BFleece%2BB.jpg" /></a></div>
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A couple of members over at the <a href="http://artisanssquare.com/sg/index.php/topic,13001.msg402554.html#msg402554" target="_blank">Stitcher's Guild forum hoped i would post some pictures of this jacket </a>when i mentioned how much i liked it, so i thought TDE readers may appreciate taking a look at them as well. I find pictures and reviews of patterns so very helpful in my own sewing that i feel an obligation to do so myself, though i fall short of this ideal. I pretty much made this pattern up as printed, though i did take in the side seams at the waist and hip. I also sliced in a bit of an extra curve under the bust on the side front pattern seam which abuts the center front pattern piece. I also removed some of the length from the points at the front hem - i just took off about 2" from the 'point' and tapered back up to the side seams so that the hem hits me at a more flattering area.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>the flash over-exposed this picture but it shows the piecing and stitching nicely so i include it</i></td></tr>
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Other than that i just knocked it out. The whole garment was sewn by hand with topstitching thread (machine is on the fritz) which accounts for the rippling on the center back pattern piece (i didn't do a great job of controlling the thread tension). The effect doesn't bother me, in fact it seems to highlight the dramatic piecing so i let it be. This is a lighter weight fleece as well, which i believe also contributed to that rippling, so bear this in mind if you want to make this one up and want to avoid a similar outcome (suggestions: choose a heavier weight, more stable fabric; interface for stability; make up samples to check your thread tension prior to construction).<br />
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This fleecey-with-some-style will be useful on it's own when we start getting foggy days, and i'm even happier about the idea of a stylish, easy to mix and match, practical and comfortable jacket pattern to make up for fall and winter. The collar keeps my neck warm, looks good closed as well as worn open.<br />
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I am so wanting to finish up with some witty, edgy statement - but mucous-making-virii have dissolved my brain!!! Instead i'll sign off with a Happy Autumn. Whatever you wear, wear it with conviction!tinyjuncohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03614867046924013061noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8327217397152414129.post-4536574727598059662014-07-16T11:27:00.000-07:002014-07-16T11:27:51.653-07:00Blue Beatrice: Another Vogue 8876 Dress by Marcy Tilton<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IddZ0-GM1tg/U8a2x2GSmxI/AAAAAAAAEKQ/gjcacP7TNkw/s1600/Blue+Beatrice+J.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IddZ0-GM1tg/U8a2x2GSmxI/AAAAAAAAEKQ/gjcacP7TNkw/s1600/Blue+Beatrice+J.jpg" /></a></div>
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You may remember<a href="http://dashingeccentric.blogspot.com/2013/07/my-desert-island-my-onetrue-love.html" target="_blank"> my rhapsodic post about my first take on this excellent</a> and deservedly<a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=vogue+8876&rlz=1C1PRFB_enUS498US507&es_sm=93&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=88HGU8O0LYf6oAT-uIL4CQ&ved=0CCcQsAQ&biw=1325&bih=721" target="_blank"> popular Marcy Tilton design</a>. I'm still wearing and loving my first make of this dress, and have been on the lookout for fabric to make into more 'Beatrice' dresses since i finished it.<br />
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In early spring, i spotted this gorgeous denim-blue printed linen at<a href="http://www.marcytilton.com/" target="_blank"> Marcy's store</a> and did not hesitate to snap it up. The dress went together quickly, as second go-rounds generally do and as far as i'm concerned linen is just about the easiest fabric to sew. I finished it for my birthday in May, hooray!<br />
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That date also gives you an idea of how far behind i am on my blogging - (abashed face emoticon).<br />
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I got compliments right off the bat with this dress - one lady at the local grocery store was especially nice and thought it looked so perfect in our first heat wave of the summer.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-POrYBOxPdxU/U8a24TbydtI/AAAAAAAAEKc/MIaShkCWaiA/s1600/Blue+Beatrice+B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-POrYBOxPdxU/U8a24TbydtI/AAAAAAAAEKc/MIaShkCWaiA/s1600/Blue+Beatrice+B.jpg" /></a></div>
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Obviously this dress is just the best for hot days - sleeveless or with a little cap to protect your shoulders from the sun, the abundant, bell-shaped skirts of the dress catch every breeze and baffle it around a bit before letting it go on it's way, squeezing out every bit of cooling action possible. Who doesn't love practicality along with their edgy femininity!<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--r9yGZS2rzY/U8a3P-V3d-I/AAAAAAAAEKw/VXQhURwWZE4/s1600/Blue+Beatrice+F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--r9yGZS2rzY/U8a3P-V3d-I/AAAAAAAAEKw/VXQhURwWZE4/s1600/Blue+Beatrice+F.jpg" /></a></div>
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It's a great piece for fall and winter around here too. Plenty of room for layering tees and leggings underneath, and any waist length or cropped jacket, shrug or sweater works wonderfully. The pattern even has sleeves! Here in the SF Bay Area this will be a year-round dress.<br />
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In case you haven't noticed, i've been adding blue to my well-loved neutrals. It started a couple of years ago when i realized how much i liked denim against black, ivory, and lighter khakis and stones. It's been a smooth process, which really shouldn't be surprising considering how the whole point of neutrals is that they go with everything!<br />
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I combined two different buttons on this dress. Tony bought the flat, blue-black ones at <a href="http://www.stonemountainfabric.com/" target="_blank">Stone Mountain and Daughter </a>a couple of years ago for a shirt fabric he decided not to purchase, and i liberated the grey shell ones from a hand me down Eileen Fisher blouse. I used them first fora little black jersey blouse in an OOP Butterick design a couple of years ago, but when that blouse died i cut them off and saved them again. They work beautifully with this fabric.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TSkqo4596E8/U8a5MUswqgI/AAAAAAAAELU/ASMppl9r-JQ/s1600/Blue+Beatrice+Buttons.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TSkqo4596E8/U8a5MUswqgI/AAAAAAAAELU/ASMppl9r-JQ/s1600/Blue+Beatrice+Buttons.jpg" height="400" width="285" /></a></div>
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I love the look of lots of smaller buttons close together, it's one of my favorite trademark closures for blouses and dresses. Using two types of buttons gives a bit of movement to the front of the dress which i like, especially combined with the swirls and motion of the print. I've said it before and i'll say it again - never let a nice button leave your stash!<br />
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I usually anchor neck drawstrings with a stitch at center back so they don't fall out or move around during washing or wearing. In this case i thought i'd put a button there in order to disguise the stitching - i picked this one as it's a sleeveless dress.<br />
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I hope you all are enjoying your clothing-related activities as much as i am! It's really nice for me, having started this whole 'wardrobe improvement' project back in 2009, all those days later i actually have a closet with a decent amount of new to newish clothing that i enjoy, speaks to my style, and is completely physically comfortable. I even have enough stock to avoid emergency laundry and panic dressing, which happened fairly frequently through most of my life. Trying to avoid these type of events was one of my main motivations in my wardrobe project.<br />
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On Father's Day i had an incident which showed me how far i'd come. I'd picked out a nice look for the day (BBQ in the backyard, yum!). It had enough dressy elements so i'd feel stylistically comfortable, good shoes for the look as well as for being outdoors and up and down stairs, just a little skirt and top and coordinating chapeau. At literally three minutes until we would be out the door, as i got ready to wash my hands the liquid soap dispenser went rogue and squirted a line of goo right down the front of my top.<br />
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In past years, my wardrobe was so disorganized and skimpy that this would have required a total rethink of my outfit. Panic dressing, as i said. But thanks to all my clothing obsessed plotting and scheming i simply walked upstairs, chose another top, set the soiled one to soak, and left to enjoy the day in another perfect look.<br />
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If you've started your wardrobe journey, but you know you've still got a ways to go and you're getting discouraged, take heart! You can do it! Take a break if you need to, but be sure to get back up and put that nose back to the grindstone because the effort is worth it and you will get where you want to be. And it will be even more fun than you thought it would be!<br />
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Have any of you had any 'closet breakthroughs' recently? Let us know if you have!tinyjuncohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03614867046924013061noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8327217397152414129.post-61109567117129349482014-07-15T12:24:00.000-07:002014-07-15T12:24:38.572-07:00Stormy Riding Peplum Dress<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IPUGxbQWKUM/U8V3borIXDI/AAAAAAAAEJE/w42lfMTa6O4/s1600/Stormy+Riding+Dress+A.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IPUGxbQWKUM/U8V3borIXDI/AAAAAAAAEJE/w42lfMTa6O4/s1600/Stormy+Riding+Dress+A.jpg" /></a></div>
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I bought this fantastic rayon from<a href="http://www.marcytilton.com/" target="_blank"> Marcy Tilton</a> over a year and a half ago. I finally found the right pattern to make it up in about a month ago and finished it on Monday.<br />
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When i participated in the <a href="http://youlookfab.com/welookfab/" target="_blank">You Look Fab forum </a>frequently a couple of years ago,<a href="http://youlookfab.com/#outfit-feature-1" target="_blank"> Angie</a> identified a minimalist aspect to my style which was not all that apparent at the time. But as the years have rolled on, i've found her observation to be more and more accurate.<br />
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Finding the right garment for this fabric is a case in point. This fabric would be a natural as part of a collage in one of the <a href="http://www.marcytilton.com/index.php?cid=194&cp=2" target="_blank">Tilton sisters' tunic, dress</a> <a href="http://www.marcytilton.com/index.php?cid=194" target="_blank">or tee patterns</a>. But the color, line, shifting values, paisleys and flowers come right up against the edge of 'way too much' on my personal style meter, and i craved simple lines to let the fabric shine.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-90R8KWMRRls/U8V38BFSDWI/AAAAAAAAEJU/MF8QyaS2IL4/s1600/Stormy+Riding+Dress+D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-90R8KWMRRls/U8V38BFSDWI/AAAAAAAAEJU/MF8QyaS2IL4/s1600/Stormy+Riding+Dress+D.jpg" /></a></div>
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I chose <a href="http://april-rhodes.com/collections/patternshop/products/new-the-riding-peplum-or-party-dress" target="_blank">April Rhodes' Party Dress from her Riding Peplum and Party Dress pattern</a>. This pattern is a treat to make and to wear. It's as easy as a tank dress, but the full hi-low peplum and shaped waist seam add a bit of drama while also gliding over the stomach and hips.<br />
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It's also just as wearable as a tank dress for day to day, and easy to pair with leggings, jackets, shrugs, jeans. It looks so pretty with a denim jean jacket!<br />
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I wore it yesterday to pick up Mr. E from the transit station, and i felt so elegant and cool in the muggy monsoonal moisture. I have a length of very light banana linen which i'll make up in the shorter version, i want to try a bit of fabric painting on it and/or add some dimensional treatments to the hem and facings (applied slight ruffle, stacked bias strips, ruching, ?). As always, we'll see how i like the various sample i make up.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0240/0147/products/the-riding-peplum-b_w_1024x1024.jpg?v=1397877681" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0240/0147/products/the-riding-peplum-b_w_1024x1024.jpg?v=1397877681" height="640" width="510" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://april-rhodes.com/collections/patternshop/products/new-the-riding-peplum-or-party-dress" target="_blank"><i>picture courtesy of April Rhodes - the Riding Peplum</i></a></td></tr>
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I've been drooling over this version of the Riding Peplum since i saw it! It's got me in the mood to try out some graded dots or other graded graphic treatment. Plus, may i simply say ohmygoodness who can resist a garment called a "Riding Peplum"?!?!?!?!? Not me!<br />
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Here's a couple of close ups of the fabric, it's so lovely and drapes like a dream. If i haven't said so before, if you're at all interested in sewing be sure to check out <a href="http://www.marcytilton.com/" target="_blank">Marcy Tilton's fabric shop</a>. Her photos and descriptions tantalize, and everything i've received from her has been of the utmost quality - even better in person. Marcy has excellent taste and all she sells is up to her standards. If price is a concern, as it is for me, keep an eye on the <a href="http://www.marcytilton.com/index.php?cid=1654" target="_blank">Buy of the Week</a>, <a href="http://www.marcytilton.com/index.php?cid=904" target="_blank">Sale</a>, and <a href="http://www.marcytilton.com/index.php?cid=1140" target="_blank">End Cut sections</a> for very good prices. Marcy also <a href="http://www.marcytilton.com/index.php?cid=1552" target="_blank">sells scarves</a> <a href="http://www.marcytilton.com/index.php?cid=107" target="_blank">and bags</a> - just sayin'.<br />
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Okay, back to the ironing board and sewing machine! Happy Day!tinyjuncohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03614867046924013061noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8327217397152414129.post-60697606946340723442014-07-06T09:16:00.003-07:002014-07-06T09:16:49.237-07:00Eight Gore Skirt with Jacket, Hat and Boots<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DnTvPgDunvc/U7lz9DJBFeI/AAAAAAAAEHg/mexqfXDF_E4/s1600/AK+Jacket+8+Gore+Skirt+Stripe+Tee+Fluevog+C.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DnTvPgDunvc/U7lz9DJBFeI/AAAAAAAAEHg/mexqfXDF_E4/s1600/AK+Jacket+8+Gore+Skirt+Stripe+Tee+Fluevog+C.jpg" /></a></div>
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Another signature look.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AjWZn4vZ7zg/U7l0GQbxSDI/AAAAAAAAEHo/sY89ldVSmPs/s1600/AK+Jacket+8+Gore+Skirt+Stripe+Tee+Fluevog+B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AjWZn4vZ7zg/U7l0GQbxSDI/AAAAAAAAEHo/sY89ldVSmPs/s1600/AK+Jacket+8+Gore+Skirt+Stripe+Tee+Fluevog+B.jpg" /></a></div>
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I made up this skirt after<a href="http://communingwithfabric.blogspot.com/" target="_blank"> Shams of Communing with Fabric </a>pointed out <a href="http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v9013-products-48411.php?page_id=174" target="_blank">the pattern</a> on one of her Vogue pattern release round ups. I didn't care for the look of the jacket at all, so i ignored the skirt. It's easy to make and fit, and fits nicely into my wardrobe.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FoE-PPiF7oE/U7l097D05gI/AAAAAAAAEHw/GvnzInuGIdk/s1600/AK+Jacket+8+Gore+Skirt+Stripe+Tee+Fluevog+A.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FoE-PPiF7oE/U7l097D05gI/AAAAAAAAEHw/GvnzInuGIdk/s1600/AK+Jacket+8+Gore+Skirt+Stripe+Tee+Fluevog+A.jpg" /></a></div>
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I saw Shams at a <a href="http://communingwithfabric.blogspot.com/2014/06/channeling-ernestine-britex-event.html" target="_blank">recent sewing blogger event at Britex in San Francisco</a>. This notorious hermit had a fantastic time!<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MWX__gNuB-E/U7l1HUJmp-I/AAAAAAAAEH4/x4LWoH0K9SM/s1600/AK+Jacket+8+Gore+Skirt+Stripe+Tee+Fluevog+D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MWX__gNuB-E/U7l1HUJmp-I/AAAAAAAAEH4/x4LWoH0K9SM/s1600/AK+Jacket+8+Gore+Skirt+Stripe+Tee+Fluevog+D.jpg" /></a></div>
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I even heard another attendee or two refer to how odd it is to be in a group of like minded people when we're all drawn together by such a solitary activity.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6oxEHZT94mI/U7l1PAseNoI/AAAAAAAAEIA/UGKuZlWg_KE/s1600/AK+Jacket+8+Gore+Skirt+Stripe+Tee+Fluevog+E.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6oxEHZT94mI/U7l1PAseNoI/AAAAAAAAEIA/UGKuZlWg_KE/s1600/AK+Jacket+8+Gore+Skirt+Stripe+Tee+Fluevog+E.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>yes, it's linen - why do you ask?</i></td></tr>
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I sure hope Britex continues with these events! I had a blast, and my eyes were opened to some products they have of which i am in dire need. I had no idea prior to this occasion, frankly i never had much luck shopping at Britex in the past. But now i am planning a trip before the next month or so. Hopefully this testimony will encourage the powers that be at Britex to forge ahead!<br />
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Happy Day!! stephtinyjuncohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03614867046924013061noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8327217397152414129.post-35701214880179035862014-07-04T10:41:00.000-07:002014-07-04T10:41:23.958-07:00Parakeet Shirt and Lavender Lace Socks<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0q-Gc-q8AsY/U7bl055U0CI/AAAAAAAAEG4/HVTqUeX_Mlo/s1600/Parakeet+Shirt+Rachel+Comey+Skirt+Lavender+Lace+Socks+Fluevog+Boot+A.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0q-Gc-q8AsY/U7bl055U0CI/AAAAAAAAEG4/HVTqUeX_Mlo/s1600/Parakeet+Shirt+Rachel+Comey+Skirt+Lavender+Lace+Socks+Fluevog+Boot+A.jpg" /></a></div>
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Hi you guys! I have some projects i'm working on which squeeze out my blogging time, but i miss it and i like having pictures of my outfits readily available. So i'll be doing some OOTD posts for a while.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Bid14h7zicA/U7bnCl4Un0I/AAAAAAAAEHQ/vYGEX-iWmLc/s1600/Parakeet+Shirt+Rachel+Comey+Skirt+Lavender+Lace+Socks+Fluevog+Boot+B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Bid14h7zicA/U7bnCl4Un0I/AAAAAAAAEHQ/vYGEX-iWmLc/s1600/Parakeet+Shirt+Rachel+Comey+Skirt+Lavender+Lace+Socks+Fluevog+Boot+B.jpg" /></a></div>
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Hope you all are doing well. Have a great day! stephtinyjuncohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03614867046924013061noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8327217397152414129.post-56552057505734046262014-05-23T10:06:00.000-07:002014-05-23T10:06:22.349-07:00Normcore Seduction<div id="yiv7086149443">
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<i>I started writing this as an e-mail to my mom, brother and good friend Shawn. But i realized that with the amount of links and images i wanted to include it'd work out better as a blog post, and be easier for the intended audience to read. I hope the rest of you will enjoy this as well, if not please skip it and go on to more fun for the weekend. </i></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hqyzxsyFHgw/U3e4DnCM_4I/AAAAAAAAEEg/bMY3FpqHf30/s1600/16b+may+2014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hqyzxsyFHgw/U3e4DnCM_4I/AAAAAAAAEEg/bMY3FpqHf30/s1600/16b+may+2014.jpg" /></a></div>
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So,
on the anniversary of my birth, my mom has very generously offered to get me a couple of credit-card-points-related-giftcards to the vendor of my choice. As a result, I've been shopping around the various stores, mostly looking for a little
jacket to replace this one from Royal Robbins which is a wee bit
worse for wear. </div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KGJAnBLBLlE/U3e4excYF4I/AAAAAAAAEEo/EFbDaJ6L2KE/s1600/16c+may+2014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KGJAnBLBLlE/U3e4excYF4I/AAAAAAAAEEo/EFbDaJ6L2KE/s1600/16c+may+2014.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">The yoke separating from the collar at center back. Requires major recon surgery</span></i></td></tr>
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But this jacket is around ten years old, so from that point of view i think it's in great shape, especially considering i wear it on average three or four times a week. It's wonderful for grocery shopping as well as my walks.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-U_0k2BD_oy0/U3e4npoElcI/AAAAAAAAEEw/LF-FqG71g7s/s1600/16d+may+2014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-U_0k2BD_oy0/U3e4npoElcI/AAAAAAAAEEw/LF-FqG71g7s/s1600/16d+may+2014.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>fraying edges all over the place, bleaching along the weave of the cotton fabric</i></span></td></tr>
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Browsing through middle American consumeriana, nothing really caught
my eye until - the one. <a href="http://www.landsend.com/products/womens-lightweight-spring-club-jacket/id_265683">The Women's Regular Lightweight Spring Club Jacket in Desert Khaki.</a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://s7.landsend.com/is/image/LandsEnd/437809_AG14_FF_DTK?fmt=jpeg,rgb&qlt=80,1&op_sharpen=0&resMode=sharp2&op_usm=0.5,1,3,0&icc=sRGB%20IEC61966-2.1,relative&iccEmbed=1&rgn=0,0,2000,3000&scl=5.2631578947368425" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://s7.landsend.com/is/image/LandsEnd/437809_AG14_FF_DTK?fmt=jpeg,rgb&qlt=80,1&op_sharpen=0&resMode=sharp2&op_usm=0.5,1,3,0&icc=sRGB%20IEC61966-2.1,relative&iccEmbed=1&rgn=0,0,2000,3000&scl=5.2631578947368425" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>image courtesy Land's End</i></span></td></tr>
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Love the color - natch, it's from Land's End which makes nice sturdy
pieces (a big consideration for me, obviously), the fabric is lightweight so good for
warm/hot days in providing sun protection as well as pockets.....<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Yl_fco7O2c4/U3oQN1LE1dI/AAAAAAAAEFE/2FUCGbyTmh4/s1600/8a+may+2014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Yl_fco7O2c4/U3oQN1LE1dI/AAAAAAAAEFE/2FUCGbyTmh4/s1600/8a+may+2014.jpg" /></a></div>
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i think it would be so fun - minimal
and utiliatarian at once, which is a scarcer combo than one might expect. I want to wear it with these boots and jeans and a <a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=gibson+girl&client=firefox-a&hs=8au&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&channel=sb&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=PX9_U8W1JMHZoAS094GoBA&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAQ#channel=sb&q=gibson+girl+blouse&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&tbm=isch" target="_blank">Gibson Girl blouse</a>.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bZ0mENsBb68/U3oQYX28EzI/AAAAAAAAEFM/o0kVK80A-_0/s1600/Nuni+boots+with+Lace.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bZ0mENsBb68/U3oQYX28EzI/AAAAAAAAEFM/o0kVK80A-_0/s1600/Nuni+boots+with+Lace.jpg" height="376" width="400" /></a></div>
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Antiqued-up utilitarian and all that. I've also been obsessing on Bridge and Burn pieces the last few months, for example the glamorously quotidian Straat jacket....</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0195/6998/products/straat_khaki_jacket_1024x1024.jpg?v=1395714121" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0195/6998/products/straat_khaki_jacket_1024x1024.jpg?v=1395714121" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.bridgeandburn.com/collections/women/products/straat-khaki" target="_blank"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Straat by Bridge and Burn, image courtesy Bridge and Burn</span></i></a></td></tr>
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...but
mostly - <a href="http://nymag.com/thecut/2014/02/normcore-fashion-trend.html" target="_blank">NORMCORE TO THE MAX BABY!!!</a></div>
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But poor Tony! Friday nite i
started talking about how this jacket i'm considering is so normcore, and he got all
huffy and requested that i consider speaking in "actual English". feh! Of course, Saturday morning <a href="http://www.latimes.com/style/la-ig-normcore-20140518-story.html" target="_blank">i opened a couple of articles</a><a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2014/04/03/fashion/normcore-fashion-movement-or-massive-in-joke.html?_r=0" target="_blank"> on normcore</a> and left them <a href="http://www.slate.com/articles/life/doonan/2014/04/normcore_the_new_fashion_trend_and_its_perils.html" target="_blank">temptingly open on his computer monitor</a>.....sure enough, a couple of hours later and he's avidly researching it; by afternoon he knows much more than i ever did and can quote from the prominent writers on the topic.<br />
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The upshot? Finally the spouse has a term he can use to describe me to the general public. <a href="http://dashingeccentric.blogspot.com/2011/01/thises-and-thats.html" target="_blank">Also, he wants to make a tee shirt saying "%$#@ Normcore!"</a> Goodness, such strong language! But it is understandable, seeing as <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrDfyZNE6rFQ6iNvQjTTcohLLTXyE9xrcmtDxw0hZtIamUaEK3fqOVa_Avw1SYxDuZOHYMR3D7VZJdyX4wELM1URG61nEFKWh9E6qgoqXcS_eiChgQ5mtKJD13aI7AA0JaejOmynqC0xTN/s1600/Tony+Long+Island+Duck+a.jpg" target="_blank">Mr. E is of Italian descent</a> and<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigUPofOfrOefWfSulkff3WQi5rtk5n3ILTOJl7n4Gp4ySr7o6etSODUIH7C7yCn8vtfKdFlbnCnqWiE0YBM4fppYNqcyhTdh0GXPI2GLgHeZovD7NeECbPWTR2lie32SEe7cizlVpGgCcP/s1600/Tony+Fashion+Week+a.jpg" target="_blank"> takes his attire quite seriously</a>.<br />
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I'm a little leery of jumping in and purchasing such a piece online, in-real-life-sight unseen. But Land's End is the queen of returns for any reason, no questions asked, as well as being known throughout the land for their high quality standards. I'm leaning strongly towards just taking the leap. (As an aside - what is it about gift funds which makes them so much easier to spend on out of the ordinary or risky purchases? Don't know, but i find it to be one of gift funds' major charms.) (And what does it say about me as a style entity that i view buying a khaki - okay, beige - ultra-mundane suburban wasp-y mom jacket as 'a risk'?)<br />
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Anyways,
Shawn i know you actually read that all that literature i sent you on "the 'core" so
i had to bring this development to your attention. Note for TDE readers: Shawn is the only reason i have any credibility whatever when it comes to current elements of the art and culture scene. His own style i'd describe as authentic normcore, his reaction to the trend: "That normcore was pretty funny. The girl in the first photo is wearing
my hat! I think of my fashion as being more like 'ab-normlcore' from the
Walmart After Dark series." <br />
<br />
No way i can top that. With that image in mind, i bid you all a wonderful holiday weekend!</div>
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tinyjuncohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03614867046924013061noreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8327217397152414129.post-86923998713241521592014-04-06T15:43:00.002-07:002014-04-06T18:35:44.301-07:00Announcing the Minimalist Wardrobe Resources Page<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hMLtaiymDnw/U0HTSlrdg-I/AAAAAAAAD94/CjZAYp4MCG0/s1600/25a+mar+2014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hMLtaiymDnw/U0HTSlrdg-I/AAAAAAAAD94/CjZAYp4MCG0/s1600/25a+mar+2014.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>i made a slouchy, stripey tee</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Hello Dear Readers! I've been thinking about adding a new feature to my blog the last few months, and finally decided to take the leap today. As you have no doubt observed, my wardrobe has been consolidating and getting tinier, with more repeats of items and looks, so that OOTD posts can get a bit repetitive. At the same time, i've become more interested in clothing minimalism and capsule wardrobes - in style, in aesthetic, in exact number and type of items in the closet. I find the idea and reality of an aesthetically cohesive, well thought out practically, and beautifully curated wardrobe simply captivating. Over the last couple of years, i've been wearing more and more outfits whose look i love, pieces which fit and flatter and don't itch or bind or ride up in drool worthy colors and luxurious fibers and it is just as wonderful as it sounds. More, please!<br />
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It's a bit concerning to realize the amount of time i've spent searching for information on this topic. But it's because there's not a lot out there! Fortunately that is changing, especially in the last six months, but it occurred to me that if finding all this information is hard for me it could be hard for other people to find as well.<br />
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So i've added a new page to my blog,<a href="http://dashingeccentric.blogspot.com/p/minimalist.html"> the Minimalist Capsule Wardrobe Resources Page</a>. (The title certainly clunks along the esophagus, but i wanted people to be able to find it easily with search engines. Prepare yourself for an infelicitous insertion of the word "French" in future.) Just click on the title up there at the top of the blog to go to the new page. I'm starting off with some example minimalist wardrobes. For me it's so much easier to envision something with examples! And they can be hard to find through internet searches, especially if it's a one-off type of post in a blog or website not typically concerned with style or wardrobe planning.<br />
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<i>Edited to add: Pam from<a href="http://www.over50feeling40.com/"> over50feeling40</a> left a comment which has led me to realize i've not been clear - the resources
page is live, just click on the title "Minimalist Capsule Wardrobe
Resources" at the top of the page, right under 'not all who wander are
lost', to view the page at any time. So far i have six authors/blogs profiled, with
nine+ example minimal wardrobes. Thank you Pam!</i><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qCkmSfiVv7w/U0HTc7ZlZqI/AAAAAAAAD-A/5P2Y5jmk3pw/s1600/25b+mar+2014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qCkmSfiVv7w/U0HTc7ZlZqI/AAAAAAAAD-A/5P2Y5jmk3pw/s1600/25b+mar+2014.jpg" /></a></div>
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I also wanted to include notes on all these links so it's easier for people to hone in on what resonates with them and skip the (to them) chaff. These wardrobes vary considerably in size, budget, practical considerations, and aesthetic viewpoints. <a href="http://www.theminimalistmom.com/">The Minimalist Mom</a> gets down to basics with 14 jeans + tee + cardi pieces in dark blue, black and grey in order to get dressing accomplished with the least amount of fuss, and on to life. <a href="http://www.minimalistbeauty.com/">Dawn Michelle</a> scours the thrift and consignment shops, brick and mortar and online, to find the perfect pieces for her artistic life in sunny California. Dawn does not balk at spending as much time and thought as she requires in order to craft a collections which is exquisitely 'her'.<br />
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In future i plan to include more resources on planning and theory as well as example wardrobes, and of course anything else which doesn't fit into a particular category but seems helpful. I hope you find this helpful as well, and please do not hesitate to contact me with any links you'd like to see included at pygmyowl (at) sbcglobal (dot) net or to leave a note in the comments.<br />
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I'm excited to have started this project! I truly hope it will be a help to other minimalist closet afficionados out there to have many disparate resources in one place. I'm linking up with <a href="http://www.notdeadyetstyle.com/">Patti's Visible Monday</a>, of course starting an idea makes a gal feel visible but also i want to get the word out if other people are interested in this topic. Go visit <a href="http://www.notdeadyetstyle.com/">Patti's Not Dead Yet Style blog</a> and check out the other bloggers. Then, come back here and let me know what you think of my new page!tinyjuncohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03614867046924013061noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8327217397152414129.post-4155041539268384762014-03-30T08:49:00.000-07:002014-03-30T08:49:00.333-07:00Ultra Violet Made Visible<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5YUxObal2ro/UzXVaxpvTuI/AAAAAAAAD84/e0NwyolXKco/s1600/14e+mar+2014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5YUxObal2ro/UzXVaxpvTuI/AAAAAAAAD84/e0NwyolXKco/s1600/14e+mar+2014.jpg" /></a></div>
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I've always loved this shade of violet - not too cool, a slight undertone of ultra-violet, not super concentrated but neither washed out at all. It tastes delicious (<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synesthesia">i'm a synaesthete***</a>) and flatters my coloring and eyeballs. Yet i struggle so to wear it happily! Even with this turgid history, when i saw this beautiful linen on sale at <a href="http://www.stonemountainfabric.com/">Stone Mountain and Daughters</a> i decided to chance it. I made it up into<a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=vogue+8813&client=firefox-a&hs=Xoy&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&channel=sb&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=HDo4U83TAqGqyAHpx4CIDQ&ved=0CCgQsAQ&biw=1066&bih=555"> Marcy Tilton's 'Vintage French Housedress'</a> pattern (<a href="http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v8813-products-22895.php?page_id=4450">Vogue 8813</a>) last summer.<br />
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Since then i've worn it fairly often. It's very comfy, especially in the heat, and i do love the color. The neckline (which i didn't take a picture of) is very flattering and i think i've come up with a way to modify the <a href="http://www.hotpatterns.com/hp-1167-fast-fabulous-la-strada-t-shirt/">top half of this dress in a kind of slouchy tee/top</a>. But the color still felt a bit flat to me when the dress was worn more or less on it's own.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VbmiwF5hKrs/UzXlZo4heqI/AAAAAAAAD9Q/4rrR-10njmI/s1600/14c+mar+2014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VbmiwF5hKrs/UzXlZo4heqI/AAAAAAAAD9Q/4rrR-10njmI/s1600/14c+mar+2014.jpg" /></a></div>
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The other day i paired this dress with my digital print leggings and a jean jacket. I can't believe how much more i love the color worn this way! The clear denim blue and the greyed peach tones in the leggings just set this off perfectly, in my view. This success has given me a couple of ideas about how to style this dress in the hotter months with an aim to achieving a similar effect. I'm on the lookout for some brass snaps to replace the silver ones on the pockets, and i may restitch the pocket edges with a merlot color instead of the current navy so that i bring these salubrious tones into the dress itself.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4Ede6C5rcGc/UzXlhfYZi4I/AAAAAAAAD9Y/CQ0skVRtTBQ/s1600/14b+mar+2014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4Ede6C5rcGc/UzXlhfYZi4I/AAAAAAAAD9Y/CQ0skVRtTBQ/s1600/14b+mar+2014.jpg" /></a></div>
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I also have a small silk square scarf with lots of apricot and coral tones which i'm thinking of tying to my purse or in my hair to spark the violet a bit.<br />
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While i can't say that this individual dress came out exactly the way i'd like for a piece in my ideal wardrobe, i'm very glad i made it. I've learned how to wear a color i really like, i've discovered and grown to love a new, very flattering and practical neckline, and i'm on the trail of a wardrobe workhorse hot weather top. I also now have enough confidence in this pattern to keep an eye out for a ultra-drapey matte black knit so i can make it into an<a href="http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/filebin/images/product_images/Add_2_Full/V8813.jpg"> LBD with the coolest hemline in town</a>.<br />
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In the meantime, i wear it and it makes me happy!<br />
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*** i wanted to link to the wikipedia entry on synaesthesia just in case some readers weren't familiar with the term. Upon reading the entry i discovered there's a term for my dominant form:<br />
<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synesthesia">"Auditory-tactile: A type of synesthesia in which certain sounds can induce sensations in parts of the body. Auditory-tactile synesthesia may originate from birth or be acquired sometime in life. It is one of the rarest forms of synesthesia." </a>tinyjuncohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03614867046924013061noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8327217397152414129.post-76305247563495413922014-03-28T09:35:00.000-07:002014-03-28T09:35:05.527-07:00Another Signature Look Variation<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-He4DWsxTHD4/UzLV_B-xNqI/AAAAAAAAD78/IeNQfVvwaHk/s1600/17d+mar+2014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-He4DWsxTHD4/UzLV_B-xNqI/AAAAAAAAD78/IeNQfVvwaHk/s1600/17d+mar+2014.jpg" /></a></div>
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A <a href="http://dashingeccentric.blogspot.com/2014/02/hard-core-taking-stock.html">signature look</a> for when i feel like wearing pants. Pretty much just switch out the skirt for a pair of pants and leave off the hat - easy enough to remember.<br />
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No one has commented on it, even my mother, but a couple
of months ago i cut my hair short again. I'd become absolutely
frustrated with it about nine months ago and had just been letting it
grow. I'd been trying bangs, which were okay but required too much maintenance for me to commit to them.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JWpdUazXyuM/UzLWIngazxI/AAAAAAAAD8E/VaoyuUN-GKA/s1600/17b+mar+2014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JWpdUazXyuM/UzLWIngazxI/AAAAAAAAD8E/VaoyuUN-GKA/s1600/17b+mar+2014.jpg" /></a></div>
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<br /><a href="http://dashingeccentric.blogspot.com/2014/02/hard-core-taking-stock.html">Defining my signature look formula</a> has been so helpful in answering vexing style questions. For example, as soon as i consciously 'got' my signature look, the hair question popped into clear focus. Two aspects of my
signature look bear on the hair issue: 1) my look is very practical/utilitarian
and has a rugged, 'ready for anything' vibe 2) a hat (structure and focus on my head/face) is a core item in
this look. Combined with my previous identification of <a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=amelia+earhart+hair&client=firefox-a&hs=4xa&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&channel=sb&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=vJ01U8DaDMamygHk6oCAAQ&ved=0CCgQsAQ&biw=1038&bih=555">Amelia Earhardt</a> as a style icon, my choice became ridiculously
obvious.<br />
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I understand people who feel that this type of style and closet analysis is boring, too prescriptive and restrictive.
But, if you have issues or trouble with certain areas of dressing or
developing your style, taking the time and focus to work through these
exercises can really be worth it. Once you develop a vision which is
true to you and which fits your lifestyle, you can confidently pass on all the thousands of items of
clothing, shoes, accessories, etc. which don't fit into your particular
structure. These statements and structures make it possible for you to laser in on what will excite and work for you, without distractions and second guesses. <br />
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This silk blouse came to me by a bit of kismet. Nordstrom opened a
Rack near our house a few months ago, which has me pretty stoked.
Unfortunately, given how much free time we spend together, Mr. E had
been there once and was not impressed. I've been pestering him to stop
on by but he was dead set agin' it. Well, following my
endo/colonosco/combo-py we went out for dinner and afterwards i asked to
stop by the nordies' Rack. Taking pity on my evil experience, Mr. E
agreed.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iNXe55OyMhY/UzLWXP7rlGI/AAAAAAAAD8U/ckWr7GxVi-M/s1600/17f+mar+2014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iNXe55OyMhY/UzLWXP7rlGI/AAAAAAAAD8U/ckWr7GxVi-M/s1600/17f+mar+2014.jpg" /></a></div>
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Of course once he spent some serious
time at the Rack my spouse found a very nice coat. And i found a tantalizing flock of Equipment silk blouses at 60% off. I've been on the yen for
these blouses for two or three years now. I'd fantasized about the standard
double flapped pockets in a lipsticky coral. Which was exactly what they
had in stock! This heavier silk crepe is just divine on the skin, i'm almost
impatient for it to get threadbare so i can justify wearing it to sleep
in. I'm not a fan of many colors, but i simply lurve me some coral.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ER-sgK2_aaI/UzLWvugluEI/AAAAAAAAD8c/WAokMKOzLAw/s1600/17a+mar+2014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ER-sgK2_aaI/UzLWvugluEI/AAAAAAAAD8c/WAokMKOzLAw/s1600/17a+mar+2014.jpg" /></a></div>
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Nailing down a signature look has also made my closet population strategies and priorities very clear. My third layers play a defining role, so focusing my sewing energies on these pieces is the smart move at this time. And i feel more sensible about buying things like slouchy tees or little camis when i find ones i like. My outfits usually focus more on the third piece and accessories, with many tees, tops, skirts and pants playing a supporting role. I also sew fairly slowly, i always have more projects in mind than i can complete, so having a clear method for prioritizing calms the scattered feeling. <br />
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That's it from here. I've been pretty diligent about taking OOTD pictures and finding them helpful, looking at what i'm wearing through this new lens of the signature look. I'm also getting to a point where my day to day looks maintain a level of consistency which has always been a major goal of mine, though more of a dream than a reality until recently.<br />
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How important is style consistency to you? I know many fashion and style bloggers tend towards more of a concern with getting in a rut, and the internet medium rewards the new, so i'm curious about your thoughts on this. Paradoxically, one of my main motivations in starting and keeping up with this blog is for me to obtain that consistency, which gives me hope that more of you may be out there. Let us know in the comments!!tinyjuncohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03614867046924013061noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8327217397152414129.post-21839308575743383512014-03-11T09:01:00.002-07:002014-03-11T09:01:53.501-07:00Are Subtle Variations Satisfying to You?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2q6h-DMUIUQ/Ux8riikPRAI/AAAAAAAAD6k/Os1gC2ilbg8/s1600/1a+mar+2014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2q6h-DMUIUQ/Ux8riikPRAI/AAAAAAAAD6k/Os1gC2ilbg8/s1600/1a+mar+2014.jpg" /></a></div>
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Hi everybody! I thought i'd show you some looks i wore over the course of two or three days (it wasn't a week, honest!). I really like the basic formula of skirt/blouse/structured jacket, even more these particular pieces. The warmth in the washed-out khakis really pops the denim blue, everything's comfy and eminently practical for my life.<br />
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So i get to play with accessories, wearing different pieces and the same pieces different ways to create little varieties. I'm continually fiddling with what i wear, buttoning and unbuttoning, switching up scarves and so on. I'm actually very sensitive to subtle changes and differences - to me, that skirt is actually a COLOR, not a neutral; so this amount of variety and difference feels just right to me. I get to maintain a very cohesive style identity (one of my highest priorities) whilst still feeling my look is fresh.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jBdImFX5Ak0/Ux8r2xB5JPI/AAAAAAAAD60/-_IQTnbgIsA/s1600/28a+feb+2014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jBdImFX5Ak0/Ux8r2xB5JPI/AAAAAAAAD60/-_IQTnbgIsA/s1600/28a+feb+2014.jpg" /></a></div>
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This whole question of what is enough, how much variety do you enjoy and what type seems to be a major stumbling block in many style plans. My only advice is to simply pay attention as you experiment, keeping these issues in mind and making some kind of notes on how you feel as you try different scenarios. <br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MV-Xktf2DbY/Ux8sQ8HfuwI/AAAAAAAAD68/jsbXv8ROAwM/s1600/29d+feb+2014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MV-Xktf2DbY/Ux8sQ8HfuwI/AAAAAAAAD68/jsbXv8ROAwM/s1600/29d+feb+2014.jpg" /></a></div>
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I don't see this idea addressed in much depth these days on the style blogosphere, though those 30 for 30 challenges were hot a couple of years ago. That idea was to choose 30 pieces, wear only them for 30 days and to create a new look every day. This is awesome for exercising your remixin' chops, but here i'm thinking about how to structure your wardrobe in a way that gives you pleasure and satisfaction, that gives you enough without overwhelming.In other words, a more personal and long term strategy and/or structure.<br />
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I'm thinking it would be fantastically helpful (to folks like myself who need things spelled out letter by letter, slowly....) to have a few examples of sample closets and how they play out in terms of a three month season. You could have the bare bones minimal, the 250 item maximal, and a couple of spots in between. But what a project!!! The logistics! I'm really bad at keeping up with the blogosphere, so if anyone knows of any good resources along these lines please be kind and share in the comments :)<br />
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Now, a couple of follow ups to last post.<a href="http://helenkosings.wordpress.com/"> helenko left some great ideas about mending and copying jeans you love</a> in the comments section. Happily for me, i obtained a pair of sxy byfrnd jeans in a medium denim wash at over half off regular price and have been wearing them since. I'm keeping an eye out for a good deal on a light wash as well as a good ivory (hello summer!). I have nothing against sewing one's own jeans, i've done it myself, i just don't enjoy it and would rather sew other things - especially since i'm such a slow sempstress :) Thank you Helen!<br />
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And in defense of Dr. B's 'little skirt' comment. He only saw me wearing a hospital 'gown', not in the dress i'd worn to the ER, so he didn't have that context. And current fashion, especially among the young and especially around these parts, features a lot of lingerie-inspired elements. A lot of people, even our age (which he was), think of a slip as being of beige or black nylon, not baby-blue silk.<br />
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And frankly he sounded so charmed he could have called it a little spacesuit and still put a smile on my face. So, do any of you feel like you have a good handle on how much variety you really do well with, and how to reflect this in your wardrobe? I am all ears! tinyjuncohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03614867046924013061noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8327217397152414129.post-54074066735331563582014-02-24T07:45:00.002-08:002014-02-24T07:48:29.519-08:00Truly Visible Monday<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="http://dashingeccentric.blogspot.com/2014/02/truly-visible-monday.html">Well i just had to post this look on one of Patti's Visible Mondays.</a> First, i wore it last Monday. Second, i wore it to the mall to get a jean jacket (previously scoped) and try on some jeans. And i got a lot of appreciative looks -<br />
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- but only from men. My feel is that it had to do with the outfit being so ladylike - dress, heels, hat. The mall is more for sexy-style ladies, not necessarily lady-style ladies, so my anomalous outfit attracted attention.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ia5tUe4REGQ/UwoiCGvrcEI/AAAAAAAAD5A/_YyY5SrbyWg/s1600/17b+feb+2014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ia5tUe4REGQ/UwoiCGvrcEI/AAAAAAAAD5A/_YyY5SrbyWg/s1600/17b+feb+2014.jpg" /></a></div>
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Well, it's a theory. I'm wearing an adorable Coldwater Creek silk dress, which is cut across above the bust with that little embroidered bow and has a couple of straps, over a vee neck tee. Doreen next door picked this dress for me from her thrift shop volunteering swag, it's a gem. I've come to terms with princess seamed dresses and tops. My minimalist side always loves the idea of a straight cut crew neck tee or dress, but in real life it's just fussy and too bulky here and too tight there and my shoulders are straining against the sleeve caps and the crew neck is bothering my neck.....so it looks a jumble, not the clean easy lines i want in my head.<br />
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But princess seams allow the fabric to skim over my particular bod, and vee necks break up my upper body and are more comfortable to boot. It's constantly a question of "how does this inspired idea manifest in my individual circumstances?" I try not to get stuck on the exact visual of any particular inspiration image, but i still get tripped up. <br />
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During my shopping trip, i tried on the Gap's Sexy Boyfriend jeans. (Lord, what a ridiculous name). As soon as i spotted them, online somewhere i think, i realized they could be a great replacement for my Faconnables. They're real big old men jeans which also came thru my fairy godmother. I knew i'd keep them, if only for the juicy mango labels, yum! But i tried them on as a hoot, and now they're a workhorse.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qlU3p6pKqNQ/UwtoYJoWukI/AAAAAAAAD6M/nTOFIaDdgMs/s1600/sxy+byfrnd+collage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qlU3p6pKqNQ/UwtoYJoWukI/AAAAAAAAD6M/nTOFIaDdgMs/s1600/sxy+byfrnd+collage.jpg" /></a></div>
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Thus, i've been on the lookout for a replacement, and a possibly more refined look. I didn't have much hope, getting jeans that fit off the rack has been a major bane of my style existence. But i was at the mall anyways, and my Faconnables are really ripping through the knees, and the thighs are thinning badly too.<br />
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Be still my heart! Those sxy byfrnd jeans even look great under a dress!!! List price is $70, as nice as these fit and how much i love them i'd happily pay that amount.....<br />
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....unless of course by a little patience and research i can find them on significant discount. Keeping my fingers crossed, there's some likely looking markdowns online. That's all from here, have a great week!tinyjuncohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03614867046924013061noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8327217397152414129.post-82317790654734124022014-02-22T10:42:00.003-08:002014-02-22T10:42:43.270-08:00Signs You May be Happy in Uniform: A Quiz Eccentrique<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TzVz2U_JUk8/Uwjfo8rIfVI/AAAAAAAAD4E/lZoXA_sZ2-Q/s1600/18b+feb+2014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TzVz2U_JUk8/Uwjfo8rIfVI/AAAAAAAAD4E/lZoXA_sZ2-Q/s1600/18b+feb+2014.jpg" /></a></div>
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Reader Vildy left another of her thought-provoking comments<a href="http://dashingeccentric.blogspot.com/2014/02/hard-core-taking-stock.html"> on my last post: </a><i>"I remember when you had been making a point of never wearing the same
exact outfit twice - so this has been a real reversal for you."</i> It's true, starting around age 16 or 17 i developed the habit of not repeating. Not entirely sure why (ha! of course i probably have some detailed explanation elsewhere on the blog, just can't recall at the moment), but maybe something to do with nerves over my small, neutral based closet getting too boring. In any event, i have been exploring the idea of repeats the last year or so, mostly because i have certain looks that i enjoy exponentially more than others. Ergo, why not wear the most bestest ones the most or all the time.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DwBDNGPuVS8/UwjfyhQJJGI/AAAAAAAAD4M/rupME_gmWIQ/s1600/18d+feb+2014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DwBDNGPuVS8/UwjfyhQJJGI/AAAAAAAAD4M/rupME_gmWIQ/s1600/18d+feb+2014.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>new denim jacket from American Eagle - in other words, the mall</i></td></tr>
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But getting to the quiz portion of the post. While i've developed a habit of a 'no repeats' approach to dressing, in all honesty it's wildly at variance with the rest of my life. Here's the quiz:<br />
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<i>Do you eat the same breakfast every day, down to brand and specific type of apple, for years on end?</i><br />
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<i>Do you take walks along the same route to the extent you've walked certain routes over one thousand times, still enjoying it immensely?</i><br />
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<i>Do you consistently order the same items at restaurants, to the point where family and friends literally create scenes as they are so bored with you? (hmmm, pry doesn't help that it still takes me ages to decide on what to order.....)</i><br />
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<i>Do you still check in with your favorite online forum daily even though the administrator deleted your account (at your own request) over five years ago? (Hi RigInters - lunarose here :)</i><br />
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<i>Do you still have potted plants from twenty five years ago, in their original pots?</i><br />
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<i>Are your favorite shoes over two (four, five, twelve.....) years old?</i><br />
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<i>Do you consistently drive the exact </i><i><i>same </i> route to errands, work, standing appointments, etc.? </i><br />
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<i>Do friends, family, roommates complain about the one CD you listen to over and over and over and over.....it's not like you're trying to be irritating, but seriously what is better than <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=47_j5hoeIws">Pirate's Choice</a>?</i><br />
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<i>Would you send your DH off to work with the same exact lunch, every work day, for fourteen months in a row - not out of some passive aggressive torture scenario, but because hey why mess with perfection?</i><br />
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No scoring system here. I'll leave the reader to draw her own conclusions.<br />
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In other news, I was rocking<a href="http://dashingeccentric.blogspot.com/2014/02/hard-core-taking-stock.html"> my signature look</a> last Tuesday, at John Muir ER. I've not felt well since a respiratory bug around Christmas, and started feeling really bad the end of January. Mostly evil fatigue (drag out of bed at 7:30am, crawl back in at 9am) but some chest/arm pain made me suspect a recurrence of clot and pulmonary embolism....angel ma drove me out to the ER, turns out i'm 'profoundly anemic' (feh, i'd prefer shallow in this instance). Cause of the anemia is still undiagnosed, so test-o-rama in my future. In the meantime, iron pills provide significant relief .<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CzXSd9rCQKk/UwjgoocjRaI/AAAAAAAAD4U/IAZ8MQPzIFE/s1600/18c+feb+2014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CzXSd9rCQKk/UwjgoocjRaI/AAAAAAAAD4U/IAZ8MQPzIFE/s1600/18c+feb+2014.jpg" height="542" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Doc "B" also admired my new Johnny F's - Adriane Lois. Incredibly sturdy and comfy walking shoes.</i></td></tr>
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I've written about my next point before, and here it comes again. It's times like this when all the wardrobe planning, style identifying, challenges, checklists, shopping trips, sewing and etc. becomes so worth it. I really hate feeling uncomfortable in my clothes (physically as well as aesthetically). While i truly appreciate medical technology and deeply admire so many medical people i've been fortunate enough to work with over the years, I also hate with a passion having to interact with the medical industry. Simply because of all the painful experiences i've had over the decades. <br />
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I suspect for many of you, otherwise why would you be reading here, it's the same. Clothes make a difference for you. And during a really nasty, stressful situation it's a true comfort and touchstone to be clothed how you like, looking true to yourself. This concept ended up being illustrated in a uniquely wacky way during my time in the ER. I had a great, professional, thorough, communicative Doctor "B" assigned to me. After a couple of hours in the ER, he popped in the (thankfully private) room and piped up, "I'd like to do a rectal exam!"<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i> <span style="font-size: xx-small;">"aaiieeeeee!"</span> </i></span><br />
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So we got it sorted, i turned on my side and he set to exposing the area of interest. I don't like my legwear sticking to my skirts, so i make and wear half slips - generally of silk crepe de chine with 2" wide lace trim and a small elastic in a casing at the waist. The one i wore last Tuesday was powder blue with royal blue lace trim. I'd stripped down to the waist, donned the gown, but still wore my leggings, socks, shoes, and half slip. I hear the Doc say, "hmm, this is interesting....." then, in a truly delighted tone of voice, "Oh! A little skirt!" I explained it was a slip, and before i knew it the exam had come to an end.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sJOQzPHV8uA/Uwjss5buPVI/AAAAAAAAD4s/5_rRn3fh4o4/s1600/The+Little+Skirt+feb+18+2014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sJOQzPHV8uA/Uwjss5buPVI/AAAAAAAAD4s/5_rRn3fh4o4/s1600/The+Little+Skirt+feb+18+2014.jpg" height="320" width="234" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>the little skirt</i></td></tr>
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The Doc's remark stuck with me, as it's the kind of thing that's extremely difficult to say in those circumstances without sounding condescending or pervy. But he managed it, with an ease that conveyed he appreciated seeing something fun and individual about me as a person. During a situation where one participant pretty much wants to pretend it's not happening, it's risky to emphasize that you're actually two real live people involved in this (well, ma was there too, so - but i think she was pretending to look at her crossword puzzle). At the same time, if you can pull it off or if it just happens spontaneously as a result of how you view the people in your care, it's an enormous relief. I'm a person, and the people who're helping me with this crappy situation think i'm a person too. yay!<br />
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I apologize if that's waaaaaay TMI. However, this blog resides in a corner of the fashion web where people harbor much interest in the philosophy, sociology, theory and such of clothing and i feel this little anecdote fits right in. Let me know what you think, and feel free to contribute more questions and your answers to our "Uniforms - Right for You?" quiz!<br />
<br />tinyjuncohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03614867046924013061noreply@blogger.com5