Sunday, September 30, 2012

Shopping For Wardrobe Basics: Eileen Fisher

Silky sleeveless tunic, pencil skirt, 'oval' sweater with skinny arms by Eileen Fisher

oh, have i missed you guys! I have been adjusting to Mr. E's new work schedule (i drive him to the bus stop in the morning and pick him up at nite), on top of that my grandma turned 100 and we had a big family party down in Fresno. But i'm getting my balance again, logistically. But at the same time, i've been bursting with wardrobe/sewing ideas and research, with concepts tumbling through my brain much more quickly than i can blog them. One of these ideas is that i am much more interested in presenting concepts that will help people pull together their own wardrobes and personal styles than i am blogging about my outfits of the day. I am sure i will use my own clothes to illustrate these concepts, as they are ready to hand, but the emphasis will be on the concepts.  This blog has been trending in the 'concept' direction for a while now anyways, so i hope that making this direction more explicit will help me write more helpful, easy to understand posts.  And as always, send me your questions or ideas - pygmyowl at sbcglobal dot com.

Now, on to today's topic - shopping for basics. These pieces go by many names: essentials, the glue that holds the wardrobe together, the cake (not frosting), the veggies (not dessert). The perfect white tee, the black dress you can style up or down, the uber flattering black pencil skirt or trousers. Stylists and wardrobe experts sing the praises of these items, but in the blogging world and in real life shopping they do not get a lot of love. It's understandable, as their charms are subtle and are more likely to unfold in a long term relationship, rather than in a passionate but short-lived affair. So, how to find 'the one' when you only have a few minutes together in a bland little room?

ponte sheath with stretch silk lining - heaven to wear!
About two months ago i decided that i was secure enough in my personal style and wardrobe requirements to put a bigger investment in my clothing. This means, for me, higher quality fabrics and better construction techniques, and a commitment to fewer nicer pieces. My vision is to develop a number of 'tried and true' sewing patterns for these pieces so i can keep the closet populated with these workhorses (as long as i keep at the sewing machine).  To begin, I re-doubled my research on 'closet vegetables', those staple pieces which form the backbone of a well-oiled wardrobe, in a quest to develop my own list of personal essentials.

In my search for inspiration i became quite enamored of Eileen Fisher's take on essentials. First, i appreciated that she explicitly addresses this concept with her 'System' pieces. You can find these items in the store by looking at the hang tags - system items have a little clock on their tag. And i loved the aesthetic of these pieces - wonderful fabrics that feel good and perform well, cuts that work with the body, and stylish design that adds interest while allowing the piece to honestly play it's 'background' role.

Eileen's famous stretch ponte pencil skirt with my own Merona tee
All very yummy. But for those of us with less mainstream styles, it can be well nigh impossible to visualize these pieces playing productively in our closet. Many Urban Warrior Princesses struggle with just this issue - they could really use some veggies, but where do mistresses of RATE and ALGO fly in Ms. Fisher's flock of serene, impeccably groomed, flats-wearing meditation queens?

To answer just this question, after dropping my brother off at Oakland International Airport the other day i spent an hour at the Eileen Fisher outlet in Marina Square, San Leandro. I learned a lot about the role veggies in my own personal style and aspirational wardrobe.  Here's what i did that made this expedition worthwhile:

Take along your trademark accessories. I brought a hat, some pearls, a belt, and the "fakeskin" heels i wore all summer. I would be likely to wear these pieces with any basics so it made sense to take them into the dressing room. You will notice that putting these 'trademark's together with a whole meal of veggies does a couple of things. To begin, it makes outfits out of these basics. As well, it makes these outfits look like my outfits. It's hard to visualize a plain black skirt as 'you' when you're standing in stocking feet and an old, dingy bra, hair full of static from the dozens of garments pulled over your head.  Frankly, that is a tall order for any garment.  And you aren't going to be wearing that skirt 'styled' in that manner, anyway. So make the effort and style these pieces in the dressing room.

A little diversion: Kismet at work! Lisanne of sewingplum's blog has an excellent post up on sewing a wardrobe of basics and deriving the style interest solely from accessories. Lisanne is working from Janice's concept of the common wardrobe. View Janice's many takes on accessorizing the common wardrobe here. All of the pictures in this post illustrate this idea.

Bring a couple of 'frosting' pieces you think you will want to wear with these basics. I didn't do this, though i did try on the pencil skirt with a vee neck tee from my closet. But when i was in the dressing room i realized how smart it would have been to have a jacket, coat, statement blouse, or boots. I will do this on my next 'veggie safari', even if it's 95F outside and all i want to wear is my skivvies!

i want this rayon spandex dress! style could not be easier.

Take pictures and/or a trusted friend. This goes double if you have trouble wrapping your mind around essentials and how they would work with your own non-mainstream style. Both suggestions will help you get some objectivity and think about these pieces in a more practical manner. Trying on clothes can be a very emotional experience in the best of circumstances. When you are stretching your comfort zone it can be downright fraught. You want to be able to see beyond the emotions, so bring a camera and a friend. A camera can also take notes for you - take pictures of the labels for price, style, and fiber content. It's also helpful to take closeups of hard to see design or construction details.

These suggestions should help you to figure out if these pieces really will stretch your wardrobe. Eileen Fisher's pieces are very well cut, very very comfy, the fabrics droolingly exquisite. I would happily invite many of her items to stay in my closet! But i cannot afford $160 for a pencil skirt. The amazing wool knit wrap in the first picture in this post was almost $200 on deep deep discount. What are some ways to get this type of groove going in the closet at an investment i can realistically make?

Buy designer pieces on sale, with coupons, on consignment and on e-bay.  If you go this route, do your homework. Investigate as many different options as you can, because pricing is complicated and fluid and doesn't work in a 'sensible' way.For example: I went to Eileen Fisher's outlet thinking i would find great prices. I found many of last season's pieces at 25-50% off of retail. I found a fair selection of 'system' pieces (my main interest) but all were offered at full retail pricing. Fiddlesticks!

However, the next week i was at Macy's Broadway Plaza. Macy's was having a store-wide sale where everything was at least 20-30% off, and many pieces had a 25-40% price cut on top of the store wide discount. When the math was done, new 'system' pieces could be had for 60-70% of retail (or even less if you use a Macy's credit card, like Mr. E does). There was a nice selection of styles, sizes, and petites and plus offerings. Which just goes to show that you need to search search search to get your best price.

tunic from first pic, pencil skirt. silk jersey collapses against the body and packs beautifully.
Buy knock-offs. The key here is to educate yourself about the cut, construction, and fabric used in the designer pieces so that you can choose a good quality knock off. It makes no sense to buy a cheesy knock off just because it costs less money - if it doesn't fit and flatter, the fabric pills, and seams fall apart. I have seen pieces of good quality and really nice design offered at many price points. But you won't have the confidence to snap these pieces up if you aren't familiar with 'the real thing'. Again, do your homework by going to the originals, trying them on, feeling the fabric and investigating the seams and interfacing, and reading the fibre content labels.  Don't worry about taking up the sales people's time. Just tell them you love the label but you have a limited budget so you need to really take your time deciding what you can realistically buy. (If you tell them you're 'just looking' they may decide you're ripe for an impulse buy, so i have become leery of using that phrase.)

Pursue custom made. Even if you can afford designer retail prices, for around that amount of money you can have a piece custom made by a tailor or seamstress. This may be a great option if you have special fitting concerns, fabric preferences, etc.  And of course many women use Eileen Fisher's approach as inspiration for their own wardrobe sewing projects.

I've certainly learned a lot about wardrobe essentials/basics by studying Eileen Fisher's take on this concept. What is your experience with this part of the closet - do you find you appreciate and depend on your 'veggies', or are you so enamored by 'dessert' that you worry about becoming 'malnourished'?  In the last couple of months i've acquired a couple of pretty basic 'essentials' and i find myself practically living in them, especially when life gets hectic. This has confirmed the wisdom of my plan to head in this direction and focus on a core of basics before focusing on the fun pieces. What say you?

19 comments:

  1. Wonderful, the way you are doing your homework! I got a lot of ideas from this post too - and I realize I need to get my lazy/busy butt into the stores and actually try on the "better" clothing, instead of just reading about it. The pieces you're showing here are fabulous basics.

    ReplyDelete
  2. What great suggestions. (Wow! That Eileen Fisher spandex dress is amazing! I think I could wear that 5 out of 7 days a week and never get tired of it!

    ReplyDelete
  3. EF pieces form a good portion of my "core" wardrobe for all of the reasons you mention. I think of these simple, flattering designs as a canvas. BTW, I love that sweater on you in the top pic! You look snazzy.

    ReplyDelete
  4. Missed seeing you in my RSS feed reader! I really enjoyed this post, and your discussion of the basics. In the last year of blogging, I experimented and steered away a bit from my usual wardrobe - which does consist of basics. I can't afford Eileen Fisher, but I buy a lot of black, gray, navy, white, or ivory essentials by Tahari, Loft/Ann Taylor, Kenar, Max Studio, Nine West, and BCBG on sale, at budget retail stores, and at the Goodwill and/or consignment shops. It's only been recently that I had the epiphany that I like those colors and they look good on me because I'm short and pencil-shaped :P I thought I might just be boring, but now I've read your post, and feel a bit more confident that I might actually be a smart clothes shopper :)

    ReplyDelete
  5. You've given me much to think about. I mostly want to say that I sincerely hope you bought the sheath dress. It is stellar on you.

    ReplyDelete
  6. This is absolutely the area I'm working on in my own wardrobe right now, so it's very timely, reading your perspective on it! I'm shopping hard for a handful of basics, and biting the bullet and paying for the best quality I can afford when I find something perfect. This is how I justified buying a (perfect) Prada cream wool ribbed mock turtleneck jumper this weekend. And I found it on the clearance rack at TK Maxx, so it ended up being comparably priced to something I'd find at, say, retail at Marks & Spencer. It's totally possible, with patience and lots of research, to buy top-notch classic pieces. (It took me ages to find a jumper like this at all; having something so gorgeous and high-end turn up unexpectedly at a just-reasonable price was like a miracle, at that point.)

    ReplyDelete
  7. Whew! i don't post for a month and you ladies are right on top of it when i do!! I am very impressed with your 'keeping up with blog reading' skills :)

    Patti, you really should! not to nag, but nothing will focus your thought more than the actual physical experience of the clothes. You then can easily decide if it's a direction you want to pursue or not. Although i think you would make a knockout EF model, to tell the truth :)

    Thank you Rebecca :) you and me both! and insanely flexible - with denim jacket and ankle boots to farmer's market and brunch,alpaca shrug, clutch, and delicate high heels to the opera. I'm dreaming of a tissue linen version for summer.

    Bonjour Madame! your styling of EF pieces helped plant the seed to explore her more in my meager, befuddled brain ;) Seriously, you look very chic, european, 'just so'.....not so 'goddessy' as EF is often portrayed. "Canvas" is a great term! heehee, i felt snazzy too ;)

    Hullo Lynne! thank you, i'm glad :) You name some great brands in which to find these types of pieces, and your advice on where to buy is also right on.

    "...but now I've read your post, and feel a bit more confident that I might actually be a smart clothes shopper :)" but of course you are!!!

    Hi STAshworth! oh, i'm happy you found this thought-provoking! that dress is a stunner, happily for my bank account it really pulled across the bust and hung a bit around the hips (my inverted triangle coming thru). But it's changing me mind about whether i could use a basic black sheath, for sure!!! :)

    oh, Ana, how exciting! i'll have to keep an eye out for how you go about this (i'm happy this is at a good time for you, too!) And your example about this and your mock turtle is very to the point - i have to say, i think that your diligence in educating yourself about quality, knowing what you want, and holding out for it most likely helped you 'see' your miracle and know to snap it up. Best wishes in your project!

    Happy Sunday All!!! steph

    ReplyDelete
  8. Good post, as usual. I always learn something useful from you, and am frequently inspired!

    I like the suggestions about bringing in some of the icing pieces. I have also noticed that shopping at boutiques during hours when business is slow is great, because shopkeepers are more likely to spend time helping to style an outfit when one's own inspiration fails. This can be detrimental to one's wallet if fortitude fails and said scarf/hat/jacket ends up in the bag along with the original piece, which I suppose is simply a lesson to those of us impulse shoppers (ok, to me) to have a plan and stick to it.

    ReplyDelete
  9. I spent most of my youth subsisting on steak, spaghetti, huge chocolate bars, oranges and chocolate ice cream. (and my father owned a restaurant)
    Variety came mostly in the form of different meats. I don't eat salad.
    I'm a meat and potatoes gal who can't always be bothered about the potatoes. So I really don't "get" these wardrobe pieces.

    If I think about background, then for me all of the accessories are the background. For me, the accessories support the clothing choices and not the other way around. They tone down the clothing, in case it needs it.

    When I was a girl I always wanted a ride to the library. I read constantly. My father bought a bookcase and some books from a man with a view that here were books and now I could read them all without having to go to the library! I was maybe eight. These were assorted grown up books and none of them classics. About what you'd expect at a junk shop. I was disappointed. I kept staring at them hoping something would finally look appealing. I read only one of the books. I think it was called something like Julie, though I've never been able to turn up any mention of it again. It was a sort of mystery where the narrator finds a woman with either amnesia or secrets and he tries to figure out who she could be. He looks inside her clothing and reads the expensive labels. I think he gives her a bit of money at some point so she can buy a dress. She goes to the bargain basement of a department store and selects a black dress with a big bow and details and then takes off every last one of the details. This is supposed to show how rich, well-bred, cultured, innately tasteful she is. I was bowled over by this. I got the message that I was supposed to grow up to wear just this kind of stark clothing so that I, too, could be endlessly intriguing while self-possessed. It might be the first instance where I came across the idea that clothes communicated. I had certainly never considered that before. I read every fairy tale I could get out of the library and the princess was a princess even if stained with walnut juice and in rags.

    I think all my clothing has to contribute to some narrative and it has to pull its weight. I also have some notion in my head about blonde/camel clothing seeming luxuriant but not black. Go figure.

    Love your idea about taking things into the dressing room that signify your own individual look. I generally take the whole Look. :) Probably why I avoid yard sales unless my friend is with me and she can make the offer/purchase for me. She agrees, they jack the price up for me. Maybe I look too interested in my clothes, too decisive about them.

    And then again, maybe I'll never be that minimalist Julie character because, unlike her, I tend to be bold and outspoken when I get through being quiet and observant. If there's an enigma about me, it's obviously not the same as she had.

    Am really eager to see how your project develops. Love the turn to the concept blog.

    ReplyDelete
  10. I think I change my mind too much to invest in basics. Basics I wore last year are now lingering in my closet severely depressed. I find that cheaper basics works for me. That way when they are stained, stretched out of shape or just now worn I feel no guilt..

    ReplyDelete
  11. aw, P, thank you :) and vice versa! " I have also noticed that shopping at boutiques during hours when business is slow is great, because shopkeepers are more likely to spend time helping to style an outfit when one's own inspiration fails." that is a good idea, and even better if one is lucky enough to find a kindred spirit or one who makes great suggestions. and, as you say, have a plan! heehee, i try to plan for a splurge or two occasionally ;)

    Thank you Vildy for such a thoughtful and contemplation-inspiring post.

    Just one of the many insightful points you make: "If I think about background, then for me all of the accessories are the background. For me, the accessories support the clothing choices and not the other way around. They tone down the clothing, in case it needs it. " I love this, it goes to show really how flexible these 'rigid wardrobe rules' can be in actual practice. My own inclination is the more traditional one of using accessories as 'icing', but why NOT turn this idea on it's head? take whatever concepts you like and use them how you like, or just go by feel.

    how wonderful of you to share this: " This is supposed to show how rich, well-bred, cultured, innately tasteful she is. I was bowled over by this. I got the message that I was supposed to grow up to wear just this kind of stark clothing so that I, too, could be endlessly intriguing while self-possessed. It might be the first instance where I came across the idea that clothes communicated. I had certainly never considered that before. I read every fairy tale I could get out of the library and the princess was a princess even if stained with walnut juice and in rags."

    how much there is in that paragraph of memory......all i will say is that it puts the lie to those who say that the subject of clothing is just practical, that thinking about clothes is frivolous, vain, silly. Instead, this part of our lives goes right to the heart of identity, culture, class, self-presentation, etc.

    and smart of you to take your friend along, besides fun :) " Maybe I look too interested in my clothes, too decisive about them." i can believe this!! " Love the turn to the concept blog." TY!

    Hi Adrienne! your approach sounds eminently wise, based on sound self knowledge. Heading off any future guilt at this pass - i am all for it. Brava!

    Happy Wednesday Everybody! steph

    ReplyDelete
  12. Oh my goodness, you look so amazing in all the pieces! I love EF and have been lucky enough to gather some pieces but I don't look half as fabulous as you!! I am working on styling them (sheath dress, pencil skirt and various stretch silk tops) so hopefully I can catch up :) Karen

    ReplyDelete
  13. Definitely keep on top of sites like Bluefly and Neiman Marcus Last Call - I know that NM just recently had some Eileen Fisher marked waaaay down... and Ebay can be a good source, once you know your sizes and preferences!
    you look beautiful,
    big hug,
    Janice

    ReplyDelete
  14. awesome...that dress look really nice...that's been only offered by ur Online Shopping Boutique.

    India is also a biggest country for apparel products and for fashion trends. In india there are also many store online you can buy Online Dress Shopping at very reasonable price from online apparel store like efello.com

    ReplyDelete
  15. Hope the dashing eccentric is okay we miss you....

    ReplyDelete
  16. Hope the dashing eccentric is okay we miss you....

    ReplyDelete
  17. I loveԁ aѕ much аs you'll receive carried out right here. The sketch is tasteful, your authored subject matter stylish. nonetheless, you command get got an impatience over that you wish be delivering the following. unwell unquestionably come more formerly again as exactly the same nearly very often inside case you shield this increase.

    Look into my web page; diet

    ReplyDelete
  18. I blog frequently and I truly aрpгeciate your
    cοntent. This gгeat aгticle has truly рeakeԁ my intereѕt.
    I'm going to bookmark your site and keep checking for new information about once per week. I subscribed to your Feed too.

    Feel free to visit my web blog: keyword
    My site > keyword

    ReplyDelete