It Turns Out It's All True!

 What they say about accessories, that is. I tossed on this dress and jacket a week ago to cope with a fairly hot day. The dress is a sundress, with just straps at the shoulders, and the jacket fabric is quite thin, providing sun protection without additional heat. For my morning walk i wore my flat riding booties (great for walking as well!) and a little hat. I ended up with a 'Depression-era country farm girl makes a little extra cash by moonlighting as a private detective in town' look - a vintage feel with a dash of kookiness.

When i got home i washed my hair, kicked off my shoes and jacket. When it was time to go grocery shopping, i decided on my nude sandals, along with the same jacket. This second look is much more up to date, almost 'Smart Casual' to use Angie's term.

The idea of using one rather 'clean', solid color dress (usually black) as a background to express various fashion personalities through prudent deployment of accessories is a hoary old canard. Many suspect it's not even true. But i was very struck by the difference a hat and different shoes made in this outfit.  Especially as this look is hardly equivalent to a 'little black dress' (plaid, big buttons, turn back cuffs and a studded belt, for goodness sake!).

I have to say that after this experience, concerning the power of accessories i'm convinced!  (time to go shoe-shopping.....)

It's You! Looking, Working, Feeling Terrific 24 Hours a Day!

Sporty jacket and denim skirt fabric....romantic embroidery and lace on the cami-top.....classic, sexy strappy sandals......clean and dramatic silhouette, all put together in an offbeat manner. Emily Cho's ideas helped me learn to express all of these sides of myself in ways that are true to who i am, where i live, and what i do.

Today's post title is a mash-up of a couple of Emily Cho's book titles. Loyal readers will already have a grasp of why i love Ms. Cho's philosophy - she very much emphasizes the importance and opportunity of fully expressing your personal style through all aspects of your life. I only had one book of Ms. Cho's, It's You! Looking Terrific Whatever Your Type, published in the 1980's.  The plentiful, very well done illustrations became dated over the years, but the insight into building a wardrobe and especially understanding and developing your own style never went out of date.

There's a ton of style advice out there on the web. I find that the vast bulk of it falls into a few categories: how to find/express your aesthetic tastes, how to flatter your face and figure, how to make current trends work for you, how to put together stylish outfits, how to use accessories, and shopping tips. Much less popular but still available is advice on how to build a wardrobe suited to your particular needs, dressing for your professional life, and dressing from certain practical angles (Angie's Mom On The Go looks, for example).

Emily Cho approaches style and clothing from these angles, but her focus lies elsewhere. She discusses style and clothing from the perspective of society, your 'audience', social occasions, and the community at large. In other words, you don't just get dressed to shield yourself from the elements or strictly to express your aesthetic creativity. You dress in order to tell the world, and particular people in your life, who you are.

This may well sound stereotypical, and it is. This type of categorizing and pre-judging happens in our society, for good or ill. Emily Cho's system provides one way to become conscious of this stereotyping so that you can make a decision about how you want to participate in it. For me, working with Ms. Cho's ideas helped me to make my peace with all of this and dress in a way that feels honest to me while not undermining my own goals or creating needless strife with family, co-workers, etc.

At your workplace your dress tells your boss if you are hard working, dependable, and ripe for promotion. At your sister's first baby shower your dress tells her how you feel about her and if you're willing to put your rivalry aside to support her at this time. How you dress to meet your boyfriend's parents for the first time lets them know if you're 'the one' or if you're too flighty, slutty, or bohemian to be 'wife material'.

equestrian boots add a touch of the dramatic for my am walk

I'm sure all of you have vivid mental pictures of 'Do' and 'Don't' looks for each of the above situations. The trouble comes when your goal is to impress the boss, but your free spirit feels like you're wearing a straight jacket in 'corpodress'. Or when your tomboy self feels like a clumsy impostor in a managerial-grade suit (even though the fabric and cut are so lovely......). The beauty of Emily Cho is that she shows you an honest way to wade through all this mess and contradictory signals.  You start by recognizing in which 'essential image type' your heart lies. Then you experiment with how to expand your range through the casual, formal, pure, and creative expressions of this type. Part of this involves understanding the relations between the image types. Finally, you expand your range through all the types to see how you, individually, can express your own truth about every image type. At this point you have developed the flexibility to dress for all the occasions and situations in your life, and have confidence that your audience feels respected and generally 'gets' you.

I'll close out today's post by naming the six type: Classic Elegant, Sporty Casual, Romantic Feminine, Sexy Alluring, Exotic Dramatic, and Arty Offbeat.  Chances are excellent those of you who've never heard of Emily Cho before already have a good idea about who and what make up these types.....next up, discussion of these types and how they relate to one another.

Some Links About Emily Cho:

Great take on Ms. Cho and 'Seventies Adult Style' in Peculiar Beauty

Short blurb on image consultants in 1986 L.A.Times

TIME Magazine on Looking Good in 1985

Emily Cho's books on Amazon

More On Neutrals In Your Wardrobe

Ravina packs a powerful punch of color into this newtral-dominated look

Photographer, stylist, model - Ravina Sniper

Eccentric HQ received many interesting comments making new and useful points regarding newts in the wardrobe from our scintillatingly intelligent readership. On to a round-up!

ilegirl made some valuable points on neutrals in the comments to my last post:

"You do neutrals so well, and by wearing ivories close to your face you bring out that healthful natural glow in your complexion.

Sounds like a compliment, right? And it is, of course, as you always look so lovely. But it's also an observation that you've discovered what works for your skin tone - the best neutral for you. I think this is key, because (for example) a charcoal gray top would have me looking as pale as a cadaver while on Ravina it would likely be smashing.

I still struggle with this too. It's easy to be seduced by the cute piece in a store and forget that it needs to be incorporated into an outfit. And while a loud plaid and a bright floral print can theoretically pair nicely, the reality is that some good neutrals create a foundation from which our creativity builds."

 another largely newtral outfit with a lot of color interest

ilegirl's coloring is beautiful and rare - on the pale side with true golden and beige tones, her eyes are a bewitching greenish hazel.  Her emphasis on warm greens in her wardrobe really brings out the ethereal aspect of her coloring. But where to look when adding newts? Trial and error always helps. Go to a store with lots of colors (fabric, decorating, paint, clothing, party supplies), hold a bunch of colors up to your face and see how you look (you may want to take a mirror and a friend who's visual taste you trust).  Try to notice details or patterns that will help you narrow down your color search : do you like warm or cool colors? do you like really saturated colors or lighter, more washed out ones? do you like clear colors or muddier, more complex ones? what 'colors' do you like?

Let's say you're loving the way yellows look on you. You want to choose newts that have a lot of yellow. This will tend towards camels, tans, creams......what you are looking for is a newt that contains a lot of the 'color' that flatters you. Navy has a lot of blue. Many greys have a lot of violet or blue undertones. Other greys have a lot of brown in there. If you find you look better in colors that aren't too dark (concentrated) or light (washed out) than choose newts that aren't too dark or light. And so on. This can help direct your search, hopefully, and then you can try out your ideas in the clothing store.

Another strategy to try is expanding your concept of a newt. In the past several years, the offerings of colors in the sage-olive drab-army green-dun green-khaki olive range have been plentiful indeed. Many of these colors are quite 'muddied' or drabbed down to the point that they read as more newtral than green - but the green is still there to do it's complexion flattering magic. Denim is also widely available, from light to dark and in stretch, tissue weight, various washes and finishes. The great majority of denims tend to be newtral as well on the warm-cool scale, making them an excellent chose for a wardrobe newtral.

I received another great tip via e-mail from ma: "You could mention that if your skin tone won't allow beige without making you look like a total bath towel (or other awful thing, thinking of me in beige - urk), a scarf in a color may allow it.  It only took about 60 years for me to realize that."  This tip works with any newt and any item that will be worn away from your face - skirts, trousers, shoes, socks and tights, etc. It's especially good to keep in mind when facing limited offerings in a critical wardrobe item. Ravina works this one quite well in her outfit at the top of this post - it matters not how her grey boots look next to her complexion. The cobalt blues really make her coloring come alive, and the greys play a wonderful supporting role. This gets back to ilegirl's second point - that newts can play an important role in creating outfits.  I hope these collaborative posts have given you some insight and tools on how to get newts to work for you!

Blouse, Skirt, Vest: own design
Shoes: Bass Lacey Oxfords

Style Insurance

This outfit really reminds me of Erin from Work With What You Got - not because of the way it looks, but in how it came together. The two main pieces (blouse and jeggings) are both off-the-rack items from Target's house brand. Now, when i think of places to shop where i'm likely to find pieces along my aesthetic, Target ain't the first retail establishment that comes to mind. Yet, i felt at ease in this look and it fit nicely inside my style spectrum.

Now, even nine months ago if you'd told me i'd be dressed head-to-toe in mass market off the rack pieces and like how i looked, "skeptical" would've covered my reaction. But here it had come to pass. Pondering how this could be, i boiled it down to two factors. One, i know my own style well enough to be able to pick items which either express my style or will work harmoniously with it (the neutral colors, the feminine-detailed voile blouse) without those items having been presented to me in the context of my own style. In other words, i have enough experience to see an item in, say, the Land's End catalog and recognize that it would really work for me - even though i personally find the Land's End aesthetic deadly boring and unattractive.  Two, accessories carry a lot of weight in any look. In this one especially the boots and belt really bring my 'Amelia Earhart' factor into the equation. Seriously, a pair of grey flats with bows on the toes and a little silver rhinestone belt would blend perfectly well with the blouse and jeggings. But that look wouldn't really come across as 'me'. Adding accessories that encapsulate and/or reflect your personal style to any run-of-the-mill look can turn a ho-hum base into an authentic expression of your style.

Erin seems to have a real talent for picking out just the right pieces that she can use to project her style, from even the most mundane of retailers (Target, Walmart, and so on). However, i have noticed that she seems to dig deeper in order to find those special pieces that finesse her looks (a wolf claw or hummingbird skull necklace from an etsy vendor, for example). Seeing as you can wear a good pair of boots for ten years or more, and jewelry lasts decades, it's a prudent strategy. Not to mention you can wear a trademark pendant, say, every day without causing comment - it's a different story with jeans or a sweater.

The older i've become (always a scary way to hear a sentence begin, no?) the more important i've found these two factors to be in building a reliable wardrobe.  It's FANTASTIC when you waltz into some new store and everything fits and flatters and goes together in just your own personal dream fantasy style, and it's all on sale and never needs dry cleaning or ironing.  (Well, i'm guessing it would be fantastic, it's never happened to me so i can't truly say.)  But over here in the real world you gotta deal with the hand you're dealt. Weird colors are the only thing in stock, clothes don't fit, money gets tight, your feet can't take heels......even if you make your own clothes, you have to make them out of the limited fabrics which are available.

Building a stock of accessories that you can rely on to bring your own personality to your outfits and being able to spot clothes that will work for you in even the most unlikely of places - both of these strategies help immeasurably in getting through style tight spots.

Grey Sweater: Tweeds
Blouse: Target Merona
Jeggings: Target
Belt: ??
Necklace: gift
Boots: Bass Lamont

Wardrobe Resolution

 (cue sound of angels singing) Yesterday we broke 50 degrees F! I was able to take a walk and remove my gloves by the end of it!It's been about a week and a half since we climbed out of the 40's, so you can imagine my excitement. Mr. E took my picture in Carmel, CA last Saturday - we drove down a couple of hours the coast to see if we could escape the cold, wind, and rain. Many weather systems that come down from the north blow out by the time you get to Monterey Bay, so it's a strategy that's paid off for us in the past. But not this time. We wimped out and came back Saturday nite, instead of finding a cheap room and staying over. But i did get a nice remark from a lady winding up her day on Cannery Row who deemed my outfit 'the best i've seen all day!' (I'm wearing my grey ruffle skirt and Bass Lamont Boots).

Sunday had important wardrobe ramifications. I put my resolutions from this post into action, and bought material for three new bottoms at Joann's. They're having a great sale until January 26, if at all possible i plan to stock up on some more linen and linen blends before it ends (60% off). I'm halfway through a black linen/rayon blend full knee-length skirt, and have material for a slim silhouette tobacco linen skirt, and some cotton/poly interlock to copy these pants.

In the comments to my 'resolution' post Terri shared with us that she has dupes for four of her wardrobe basics: "You are absolutely right about the mainstays--which is why I have two black pencil skirts, two pair of black slacks, two pair of greys, two denim skirts." I appreciated her being so specific. It helps me to see a general idea along with a concrete plan someone uses to put that plan into action. I could juggle her selections around in my mind to see how they would work in my wardrobe and typical week, what would be involved in acquiring these items (or my equivalents), and how much of a 'buffer' they would offer me in terms of flexibility - for different types of occasions, in case of accidents, those busy times where it's hard to keep up with laundry, etc. I'm working on coming up with a similar list for my own use. Thank you Terri!

Just a knock-around-the-house, layer 'em up so you can stay warm, throw some stuff on kind of outfit. The beauty of this outfit for me is how easy it was to put together, because of the thought i've put into what gets into my wardrobe to begin with. It's comfy, warm, me, and has a certain amount of funk and style. It's days like this one, where i've made it so much easier for myself to dress how i want and like to, that give me the inspiration to make my mainstay's list and create the clothes on the list.

And you know where i get so many of the ideas for how to make my clothes work better for me - the finger's pointing right back at you! I hope i return the favor at least every now and then. Thank you!

An Editorial (warning: this is a long one)

A couple of posts ago i mentioned the book The triumph of Individual Style by Carla Mason Mathis and Helen Villa Connor.  The basic concept laid out in this book is that each individual person has a unique aesthetic. Certain colors, textures, shapes, lines, and proportions will flatter the inherent aesthetic of that individual's physical form, while most other colors, textures, etc. will not.  The authors truly focus on bringing out each individual's particular beauty - this isn't How To Not Look Old by any stretch. The authors draw upon all of art history to find hundreds of portraits which they use to illustrate these principles of shape, form, and color. As i recall, they don't address typical 'style' or personality concepts at all (ie. 'romantic' vs. 'professional' vs.'rocker' style).


The artistic and graphic design concepts which the Carla Mason Mathis and Helen Villa Connor teach the reader of this book are invaluable.  I cannot recommend it highly enough as the one resource which you can use to learn any concept of art, color, proportion, line, form, etc. that you will ever need to dress your form exquisitely.  But i was never convinced that their focus on an individual physical aesthetic got to the heart of personal style. Flattery is fine, beauty is even better. But what about the psychological, personality, historical, hobby, lifestyle, and other factors that come into and express themselves through people with amazing style? What does a person do when their body looks good in pale pinks and baby blue frothy lace, but they lead a rock band? Or, worse yet, a law firm?

Style blogging, particularly blogs which feature one person's outfits several times a week, is a radically new form of fashion/style media.  It provides the opportunity for your average jane to see what incredibly stylish people wear, on a day to day basis, for months or years on end.  Prior to style blogs, you either had the blessed good fortune to live near one of these stellar individuals, or you saw highlights culled from photo shoots or paparazzi by Anna Wintour. It was just a taste, and the people featured were so many times starlets who are styled by the really interesting style mavens behind the scenes, like the Beckerman family. Now we can see what Calli and Sam are wearing, not just *lithe blonde of moment*.  

I started to notice that color, texture, line, etc. really did make a huge difference in how people looked. Cynthia of Be Fabulous Daily just glows in berries, red, and blues. Erin at Work With What You Got uses every trick in the book to make her long long legs somehow look even longer. Sal of Already Pretty - she loves her newts and wears them well. But put her in a cobwebby-violet or a rusted out forest green with a medium grained pattern and her face and hair suddenly  incandesc on up to 11.  So i became convinced that there are certain elements which flatter people, which best frame and bring out their own unique features and coloring and shape, and others which do not. But this still seemed to only address part of the style picture. What about the person inside the body?

All this thinking and mulling around came to a head during Style Underdog's recent Color Explosion Birthday Week Extravaganza!  Of course Bev looked gorgeous and chic and perfect and the color combinations were so on the edge it made my teeth hurt, like strawberry gelato.  But it also let me see the wisdom in her love of neutrals.


I had no idea that Bev's facial features and complexion were so delicate, even though i've looked at her face hundreds of times over many months now.  Her choice of neutral colors and fine-grained textures allows space for her features and complexion to shine - i felt like those amazing colors shouted down her face a bit.  The neutrals also provide space for her to direct our attention to her elegant curation of accessories. Her accessory choices often appear quite bold, but put them next to a purple and black zebra print and you'd take a week to find them. Her precise color and texture palette also seems very in keeping with her dry, spare wit, her writing style of 'just enough. It's all of a piece - the physical, the personality, the creative choices.

And it's not just because i'm on 'Team Newt' that i love the 'Neutral Underdog'. Sheila of Ephemera rocks the newts, but her masterful use of color knocks your socks off and really makes her face and skin and hair glow.  Her eclectic and agile use of color, texture and pattern also tips you off to her incredibly wide ranging interests - nature, hiking, reading, travel, art and painting, even Weight Watchers! Not to mention her off-beat sense of humor. She uses tons of color, but the colors themselves are very unusual and the pairings extraordinarily sophisticated.  And it's always grounded in classic fit and traditionally feminine shapes - pencil skirts, fitted jackets, well-cut denim. Just by looking at how she presents yourself you can tell she's a very creative lady with interests all over the place - and she's got it all together.


Then it hit me - the graphic elements which flatter an individual's physical form will be limited. But they still are pretty numerous. It's the melding of a particular set of flattering elements with the 'style signifiers' of a person's choice that create true style - from the inside on out. Here's an example. One person's rocker chick could be all shiny black vinyl and red patent leather with one huge shiny stainless steel buckle on each platform boot.You can just picture this on an amazonian lady with straight black hair and strong facial features which stand up to all the stark textures and contrast.

 A smaller lady with curly medium brown hair and soft grey eyes could choose to project a rocker vibe in ripped gauzy tees, spiderweb grey-violet lace, bleached and torn denim belted in silver chain, and a cluster of brushed-steel buckles on her delicate wrists. These elements would let the world know who she is without overpowering her physical form. The high-contrast look of the first outfit would blast out her low-contrast coloring, the same way too much light destroys the detail in a photograph.  And the Amazon would look like she's trying to disguise herself in lace and little chains, as if she's wearing her baby sister's clothes. But when each lady chooses the elements from the 'rocker library of style' that flatter her particular form, she makes that style her own.


Finding which graphic elements flatter your particular form is half the work. The other is finding out how to weave these graphic elements in with the style elements that express who you are. Frankly, it's a lot to handle - no wonder true style seems rare!  But it can be learnt, with time and persistence. And this learning is a very interesting, creative, and rewarding process. We all need to get dressed every day, so the knowledge we gain will always be useful to us. 

I find that teasing this process apart and getting at some of the underlying concepts helps me to refine and make conscious my own style choices and ideas, which really streamlines shopping, designing, making outfits, etc. I hope that some of my ideas help you, the way all of your ideas and outfits and photographs have helped me.


First Look:  
Jacket: Issey Miyake for Vogue Patterns made by me
Pants, Scarf, Hat: gifts
Shoes: Clark's Passion


Second Look:
Poses: inspired by Beckerman Bite Plate
Top: gift
Petti: own design, inspired by Alisa Burke
Shoes: Maine Woods

Have Fun With Your Clothes!

Double outfit post today....actually triple outfit (including the one i posted on Monday).  Recently i've been focusing on my Europa Geisha Blouse,which i made out of cotton Geisha printed fabric using La Fred's Europa Blouse pattern.

my Europa blouse - pattern by La Fred

I've worn three pretty different outfits which each feature this blouse over the last 2-3 weeks, and it got me thinking about what made this blouse so versatile for me.  After all, while it's not completely over the top in pattern, fabric, or styling, it's not a plain black tee shirt or button down blouse.  Flexibility is the key to avoiding boredom with a small wardrobe, so how to pull off this type of manouevre?

First, color.  I've explained before about color in the small wardrobe. My two 'foundation' colors are black and beige, so the parchment/tan of this fabric fits right in. I chose beige as one of my colors precisely because there are so many variations of beige: taupe, khaki, tan, ecru, dark ivory, eggshell, on and one. They all play nicely together and all play just as nicely with black.  Grey could play the same role in a person's wardrobe: charcoal, ash, cobweb, pearl grey.........although for me grey falls under the 'watered-down form of black' category.   Any other colors in my wardrobe have to go well with both beige and black in order to make it in.  As it happens, that's not much of a restriction, so how do i choose?

Secondly, choose only pieces that flatter your particular physical form. We all know the many many items out there that we can't wait to get our hands on - they're so cute, it's the color of the season, vinyl is so fashion forward, i've always wanted to rock a PVC corset ever since i saw one on Sarah Jessica Parker, it looks just gorgeous on my kid's first grade teacher, Tim Gunn says every woman needs a trench coat, if i just belt it and hem it and wear that scarf near my face to 'take care of' the color.......blah blah blah.  You don't want these type of clothes, as fun as they may be.

 Then there's you standing in flourescent light wearing two-sizes-too-big grey sweats, with a 102 degree fever, and you put on the floppy aubergine paisley blouse and all of a sudden you look like a million bucks. It's not in style or out of style, no spectacular 'features' to it. You can ball it up in your hand and it's nothing special there. But when you put it on, you just look fabulous. 

You want those type of clothes.  The 'you look like a million bucks' clothes.

Certain colors, fits, shapes, textures, types of patterns, sizes of patterns, and hem lengths will flatter your form while many others will not.  You can determine these characteristics by actually trying on a bunch of different items and taking pictures or notes, then studying them. Look for clothes that you don't have to 'work with' in order for them to make you look great.  There are plenty of looks you can pull off - with work.  This exercise is about finding the effortless pieces. You don't have to buy anything, especially before you've nailed down what really flatters - it may take time to determine how to work what flatters in with your lifestyle, comfort requirements, etc.

 Even if, to begin with, the really flattering items might seem a little all over the place, with time and observation you will begin to find the common threads. Clothes that truly flatter you will tend to 'go together' because they will have so many commonalities. These commonalities are determined by your own physical aesthetic. The Triumph of Individual Style by Carla Mason Mathis and Helen Villa Connor is an excellent explication of this concept. (Click 'show more formats' to see the really cheap older paperback versions - the information is just as good.) It will instruct you on everything you need to know about color theory, proportion, art history, and how all this relates to dressing your body beautifully. 

 

Thirdly, clothes that have 'built in' flexible styling options will be easier to style in multiple ways.  That's why so many 'top twenty' lists feature the white button-down shirt with collar. White goes with all colors, you can button it all the way up, leave it open, tie it at the waist (buttoned or open), tuck it in, belt it out (buttoned or un)....all with the collar turned up or down.  Not to mention what you can do with the addition of scarves, necklaces, camis, tees...

the geisha ladies on my Europa blouse

A crewneck or turtleneck sweater, for example, is just inherently more limited.   There's no way to change the neckline without scissors. You can try wearing it backwards, but it basically looks the same (except for the stitching holding the tag on). These types of items are great for base pieces in layerings, but they tend to always look pretty similar.  You can't rely on them to provide a variety of looks. 

Pieces with removable collars, fastenings up the front or back, different necklines back and front (so you can wear it backwards for a different look), loose fits in thin fabrics which can be belted in or layered over, pieces with ties which can be tied or bowed in different ways, skirts which can be pulled up to look shorter or pinned up at the hem - pieces with these types of features allow you a lot more room to play.

me having maybe a little too much fun with my clothes

That's why i sliced up the front of this olive drab turtleneck to turn it into a cardigan. I've worn it more in the last month than i ever did in the previous six years i had it. 


So, my dear readers, do you have any tricks of guidelines for getting more 'looks' out of your clothes? Is it possible to have too much fun with your clothing? Tell all!


Europa Geisha Blouse: La Fred Europa Blouse
Plaid Sundress: Liz Claiborne
Olive Drab Turtleneck: Macy's mens store, rapidly becoming vintage
Shoe Boots: MaineWoods
Belt: old


Sage Crochet Sweater: April Cornell
Tee: Merona at Target
Skirt: own design, inspired by some girls wander
Shoes: Bass Lacey Heeled Oxfords
Belt: vintage Coach


Monday's outfit post

Getaway Weekend Tips: Part Two

taming the savage beast

In this second of my getaway tips posts, i'll show you a couple more outfits created out of the capsule wardrobe,  my makeup kit and how i get it so compact, and reveal my secret to attractive yet functional travel knickers (that's 'panties' for you non-Brits). Unfortunately, my camera wigged a bit (i admit, it very likely was me wigging!) so i missed some outfit pictures. But i hope you enjoy these views of Green Gables Inn!

green gables sitting area by the fireplace - original stained glass

 Again, the capsule consists of a skirt, one pair jeggings, two tunics, two tanks, a lace camisole, a cardigan, a jean jacket, and a leather jacket. One pair 'walking compatible' dress shoes, one pair hiking shoes.  I've shown around six outfits in these two posts, but the possibilities are much greater - especially if you take along larger scarves that can 'double' as tops or skirts.  While on my late-nite walk the other evening, i calculated that this capsule could yield around 20-24 different looks (not counting the power of accessories). My calculations included each individual top paired with skirt and jeggings, then adding in all various layering combinations (cardi over tank, tunic over cardi, jean jacket over cardi over tank, and so on).

napping in a window seat with a view of the ocean.....while wearing heels, of course.

Of course, people's tastes and needs in clothing vary widely.  You could take a pair of dress pants (wide legged silk trousers, lined wool pinstripes) instead of the skirt and take jeans or khakis instead of the jeggings.  Skirts are so varied - gabardine pencil, floaty floral, khaki safari, mini denim cargo....it all depends on your taste, your itinerary, and the weather.

cardigan loosely buttoned over black lace cami for breakfast our last day

 If you're a big sweater fiend, switch out one of the tunics for another cardigan that you can wear as a top, buttoned up the back, or the traditional way over the other cardi, a tunic/blouse, or tank.  You can switch out the tanks for tees (short or long sleeved). Just make certain that they are easy to layer in order to increase your possibilities.  And bear in mind the casual/dressy scale. Tossing in a couple of pieces on the other end of the scale from the bulk of your items will definitely increase your flexibility.

another view of green gables sitting and dining area and carousel horse

On to Makeup!

 

The rest of this post focuses on makeup and underwear, so 'fashion-only' readers can stop right here! I pretty much wear makeup every day.  Above you see what i take traveling.  For day to day use i only add in a couple of bigger brushes, for powder and blush.

top compact (start at top left, then go clockwise): cream concealer, eyeshadow, face powder, blush
lower compact (start at top left, then go clockwise):shimmery pinkey-taupe shadow, sheer taupe shadow, ELF Moondust shadow (dark greyish shimmer), darker matte brown shadow

These ELF compacts are my 'big secret'.  I'm not a huge fan of ELF cosmetics (except for their Moondust eyeshadow), but these compacts and pans are a fantastic deal because you can clean out the pans and fill them with any powder or cream product you desire.  (M.A.C. pans fit these compacts - i'm not sure if you have to put a magnet on the bottom). They cost one dollar each, are nice and sturdy, and have a mirror big enough that you don't need to take another mirror along.  ELF also sells pop-in, magnetized pans with eyeshadows, blushes, etc. for one dollar each.  You can use these ELF pans to re-fill with your own cosmetics.Or, as in the top compact, you can take out the insert and put in any size or shape of pan that's not too thick.  The one drawback is that the compacts don't come with a liner to keep the mirror clean. But you can easily make one of an acetate sheet, paper protectors from a binder, parchment paper, etc.

they even have internet access, so i was able to keep up with all of you!

Cream products are pretty straightforward - just use a small knife, spoon, etc. to fill you pan and smooth over the top.  But, what i only found out a year ago, you can also re-press any pressed powder (not loose!) products you want.  The basic process is to crush the powder, pack it into the alcohol-cleansed pan, put in a few drops of rubbing alcohol, and then press it down hard with a quarter wrapped in old tee shirt material soaked in rubbing alcohol.  Let it dry, and you're good to go! Of course i didn't think this up myself - i learned it by watching this video by Kandee Johnson on YouTube. The one thing to remember is that this won't work with loose powders, as they don't contain a binder to hold it all together.

top row left to right: mascara (warm water removal), blush brush (doubles as powder on the road), lid brush, wash/blending brush, crease brush, liner/smudge brush, slant-edge brush (for brows and lining eyes), clear mascara, Prestige eyeliner, HB pencil (for brows).  bottom row: poly-con with liquid foundation, carmex tin with gel primer

 The other idea you can use to streamline your makeup is to focus on multi-use products and brushes. My foundation doubles as concealer and eyeshadow base, and can be mixed with moisturizer for a sheerer look. Sheer, mid-tone eyeshadows can be used as lid, contouring, or all-over shadows.  Dark, matte brown shadows can be used to fill in brows, as contour, or as a sharp or smoky eyeliner (depending on application). Mascara that comes off with warm water or your regular cleanser means no need for makeup remover.

As you can guess, i get a lot more flexibility out of a few neutral shades and multiple brushes for my eyes than a bunch of different colors with only one or two brushes. And since i go light on powder and blush, i can get away with using the same brush for both (i wipe it briskly on a rough washcloth between the two). Take a look at every product in your routine with an eye to double-uses and see where you can pare down your own makeup bag.


The Grand Finale

We've all seen those horrifying 'around the world in one pair of undies' online or, even worse, in travel stores. Can you say bulky, unflattering, sucking all the fun out of being in some gorgeous international location? Talk about taking visible panty lines to a new level - these things are braille-compatible. Yuck!

If you want something cheerful, in a variety of colors and styles, tiny to pack and quick-drying, just look for nylon lace undies.  You can find them at any price point (i've purchased well made ones for $4 each at Target). Just look at the fiber information and check for a cotton crotch. Nylon is soft and very very long-lasting, and nylon lace dries in an hour or two if you roll it in a towel first. I have ones from Victoria's Secret that i've used as everyday undies for around seven years that are in perfect shape.

per innkeeper Honey, once a month a letter arrives from a visitor saying that the profusion of teddy bears creeps them out.   for goodness sakes, teddy bears?

You'll be pleased to hear that that's all i'm going to say about THAT.  I hope you found this useful - please ask any questions and i'll do my best to answer.  Hopefully you'll be able to go on a getaway trip of your own soon!  Maybe Vegas?

Getaway Tips: Clothing Capsules

outfit for breakfast downstairs in the inn on our first morning

In this post and the next i'll show you some pictures of outfits i wore on our recent trip to Pacific Grove's Green Gables Inn.  I'm big on using 'clothing capsules, so i thought i'd show you what i took along and some of my outfits to to give you a better feel for this concept.  In the next post i'll show you some more outfits, plus tell you how i lighten my makeup bag and give you my super secret travel knickers tip!


Before i begin, i recommend the Four Sister's Inns in the Monterey area unconditionally.  Great to amazing old houses, lovingly restored, lots of yummy food, and really really really nice staff. After we'd forgotten our cell phone, Honey and Ivy especially went above and beyond when i needed to contact my mom about a doctor appointment result.  Mom's fine (yay!).  And i suggest you check out the Four Sister's Inns - Gosby House and Green Gables. (No, they didn't pay me.)

out walking and harbor seal watching on an overcast but mild day

 I've talked about clothing capsules before. Here's the best definition i've found of a clothing capsule: "A clothing capsule is a group of 5-12 pieces (jacket, skirt, slacks, etc.) that work in combination with each other in color, style, or mood."  So, when packing for a two or three day trip, if you take one clothing capsule you should be set. What i like about taking clothing capsules, instead of planned outfits, is the flexibility - you have everything you need to create numerous outfits, all depending on your mood, the weather, or changing activities. For a longer trip you can take more than one capsule - two capsules with style or color 'overlap' will increase your options even more.


Here's the top half of the story:

left to right:  straw hat, grey floral scarf, leather bomber jacket, khaki jean jacket, black alpaca cardigan, white ruffle tunic, black lace cami, black ruffle tunic, white lace tank, black lace tank, leather hat.

And here's the bottom half of things:

left to right: leather heels, cotton black and white print skirt, white/ecru petticoat, gray wash jeggings, grey wooly tights, grey over the knee socks, ecru knit over the knee socks, black nylon stockings (i photo'd my brown ones since my black are in the wash!), khaki sneakers.  Missing: Smartwool socks: oatmeal with coral floral pattern.

ready to head out for pizza (with the addition of leather jacket) our second night.
tank, tunic, cardi tied at hi waist, jeggings, heels and smartwool socks.

The color scheme is pretty strict - black, white, khaki and grey. That's one of the tricks to a successful capsule - by limiting your color scheme, you ensure everything 'goes' with everything else with no clashing. And most of the pieces have a very romantic, flowing feel.  But i also threw in some 'tougher' more casual pieces - the leather jacket, the jeggings, the jean jacket - to allow more flexibility. I paired the jeggings with tunic length blouses, since i wear jeggings more as leggings than as jeans.

Packing pieces at different places on the casual/dressy scale increases your options as well. In this example, i can pair a romantic skirt with the lacy, crocheted sweater over a ruffled tunic and heels for a very dressy, festive look.  I can pair the jeggings with a tank and jean jacket and sneakers for a pulled-together yet totally casual ensemble. Mix the items of these two outfits as you please for looks that fall in between all dressed up and just kickin' around. To take advantage of this approach to flexibility, make sure to include a top and a bottom piece that go with your capsule but fall on the opposite end of the casual/dressy scale from the bulk of your travel wardrobe.

I include this last outfit, not because it is fabulous, stylish, or compelling (although it is very warm, which is important on the coast!). I include it because of the comment it generated as i strolled along Monterey's touristy Cannery Row late on our first night away.

the 'cowgirl' wore black stockings, not brown.  this is a dramatic recreation based on actual events.

 I walked past a bench with two ladies sitting on it. One lady was looking at the other, who was looking at me. The latter lady turned away from me to her puzzled-looking friend, and said,'She's a cowgirl.'  I looked out towards the Monterey Bay- seagulls don't care if you're trying not to burst out laughing!

Next up: a little more on creating your own clothing capsules for travel, lightening the makeup load, and a peek into my undies drawer.

Building A Small Wardrobe: Color

Oh, this was nice outfit! Comfy, cotton, just two easy pieces, a really fun shape and easy to accessorize. I threw it on because i wanted something simple for the day which we planned to spend packing up for leaving to go camping the next day. Mr. E asked where i was headed - he thought i looked a little fancy bumming about the homestead!

Below you see how i generally feel when i'm taking pictures by this tree - i have to run down a ramp, go down a step, more ramp, step over a wooden border, clamber onto the base of the tree....all in eight seconds. It's a wonder i ever look decently composed in these photos.

I think in this pic you can see the detailing on the tunic for once. I've had a hard time capturing the ruffles and plackets that are a big part of the appeal for me of this garment. Here it seems to come across.

Now, on to the title topic: color in the small wardrobe. For decades now i've been using a method but i can't remember where i learned about it - possibly in the 'four seasons' color theory books. Anyways, it's a simple system but for it to work you have to be very strict, especially in the beginning. To start, choose two colors that you like, flatter you, and can easily be worn together. It is also recommended to choose one dark and one light color. I chose black and beige. Other pair choices could be navy and grey, chocolate brown and teal, indigo and pale yellow, etc. As a rule, neutrals or less outrageous colors are preferable because they are more flexible, but it depends upon your individual situation. If you're a beginning lawyer, coral and sage green may be lovely on you as well as with one another, but might be tricky in your profession. If you're an artist or stay at home spouse, on the other hand, go for it!

From this point every piece of clothing you buy will be one of your two 'base' colors (white/ivory is a wild card you may also purchase as long as it flatters you). Stick with your two base colors until you have put together a 'core' wardrobe sufficient for your needs (maybe 5-12 pieces?). This will vary depending on your needs and the purpose of this part of your wardrobe (business, travel, casual). Staying within certain style parameters is a big bonus to the versatility of this strategy, but you'd be surprised how many seemingly stylistically opposing pieces come together when they are the same color. Also, keep in mind that classically-fitting, simple, well made pieces will last longer and be more versatile for mixing with other pieces. Solid colors are also more versatile for mixing, but prints consisting of primarily your base colors can add a lot of life to your look. Prints are also quicker to 'date' than solids, something to keep in mind if you are buying investment clothing.

Once you've got your 'bases' covered, add in one more color. This color can be dark or light, which ever you prefer and makes more sense (what is the dominant season in your area? do you do a lot of messy activities in this wardrobe?). The third color needs to 'go' with both base colors and, again, be flattering to you. I chose grey. Proceed as above, purchasing only items in one of your three colors until you have enough for your wardrobe's purpose. At this point you may want to concentrate on finding pieces in your third color, but don't pass up anything really great or useful in your two other colors.

As i'm certain you've realized, this scheme can be carried out with as few or as many colors as you can think of as long as they all can be worn together successfully. I started with black and beige, added grey, realized i had a couple of blue pieces and added a few more. I have two orange pieces from years ago and just now have added the predominantly orange 'umbrella skirt'.

This scheme sounds tremendously limiting because it does limit the items you can add to your wardrobe. But if you stick to your plan, once you go to get dressed suddenly everything you own can be worn with everything else, meaning you have literally HUNDREDS or even THOUSANDS of possible outfits. Once i'd seriously committed to this plan i found i started never repeating outfits, though the number of clothing items i had stayed about the same or even a little less. My creativity in creating outfits took a leap forward as well, since i had so many options and possibilities.

I hope this has been helpful to anyone interested in a planning a smaller wardrobe. This concept is also worthwhile when packing for travel, as well as developing 'clothing capsules' for specialized areas of your life (sports, weekends, hobbies, severely hot/cold weather, etc.).

Tunic: Converse for Target
Skirt, Earrings, Necklace: own design
Shoes: Dansko Marcelle
Hat: ???