Sunday, September 30, 2012

Shopping For Wardrobe Basics: Eileen Fisher

Silky sleeveless tunic, pencil skirt, 'oval' sweater with skinny arms by Eileen Fisher

oh, have i missed you guys! I have been adjusting to Mr. E's new work schedule (i drive him to the bus stop in the morning and pick him up at nite), on top of that my grandma turned 100 and we had a big family party down in Fresno. But i'm getting my balance again, logistically. But at the same time, i've been bursting with wardrobe/sewing ideas and research, with concepts tumbling through my brain much more quickly than i can blog them. One of these ideas is that i am much more interested in presenting concepts that will help people pull together their own wardrobes and personal styles than i am blogging about my outfits of the day. I am sure i will use my own clothes to illustrate these concepts, as they are ready to hand, but the emphasis will be on the concepts.  This blog has been trending in the 'concept' direction for a while now anyways, so i hope that making this direction more explicit will help me write more helpful, easy to understand posts.  And as always, send me your questions or ideas - pygmyowl at sbcglobal dot com.

Now, on to today's topic - shopping for basics. These pieces go by many names: essentials, the glue that holds the wardrobe together, the cake (not frosting), the veggies (not dessert). The perfect white tee, the black dress you can style up or down, the uber flattering black pencil skirt or trousers. Stylists and wardrobe experts sing the praises of these items, but in the blogging world and in real life shopping they do not get a lot of love. It's understandable, as their charms are subtle and are more likely to unfold in a long term relationship, rather than in a passionate but short-lived affair. So, how to find 'the one' when you only have a few minutes together in a bland little room?

ponte sheath with stretch silk lining - heaven to wear!
About two months ago i decided that i was secure enough in my personal style and wardrobe requirements to put a bigger investment in my clothing. This means, for me, higher quality fabrics and better construction techniques, and a commitment to fewer nicer pieces. My vision is to develop a number of 'tried and true' sewing patterns for these pieces so i can keep the closet populated with these workhorses (as long as i keep at the sewing machine).  To begin, I re-doubled my research on 'closet vegetables', those staple pieces which form the backbone of a well-oiled wardrobe, in a quest to develop my own list of personal essentials.

In my search for inspiration i became quite enamored of Eileen Fisher's take on essentials. First, i appreciated that she explicitly addresses this concept with her 'System' pieces. You can find these items in the store by looking at the hang tags - system items have a little clock on their tag. And i loved the aesthetic of these pieces - wonderful fabrics that feel good and perform well, cuts that work with the body, and stylish design that adds interest while allowing the piece to honestly play it's 'background' role.

Eileen's famous stretch ponte pencil skirt with my own Merona tee
All very yummy. But for those of us with less mainstream styles, it can be well nigh impossible to visualize these pieces playing productively in our closet. Many Urban Warrior Princesses struggle with just this issue - they could really use some veggies, but where do mistresses of RATE and ALGO fly in Ms. Fisher's flock of serene, impeccably groomed, flats-wearing meditation queens?

To answer just this question, after dropping my brother off at Oakland International Airport the other day i spent an hour at the Eileen Fisher outlet in Marina Square, San Leandro. I learned a lot about the role veggies in my own personal style and aspirational wardrobe.  Here's what i did that made this expedition worthwhile:

Take along your trademark accessories. I brought a hat, some pearls, a belt, and the "fakeskin" heels i wore all summer. I would be likely to wear these pieces with any basics so it made sense to take them into the dressing room. You will notice that putting these 'trademark's together with a whole meal of veggies does a couple of things. To begin, it makes outfits out of these basics. As well, it makes these outfits look like my outfits. It's hard to visualize a plain black skirt as 'you' when you're standing in stocking feet and an old, dingy bra, hair full of static from the dozens of garments pulled over your head.  Frankly, that is a tall order for any garment.  And you aren't going to be wearing that skirt 'styled' in that manner, anyway. So make the effort and style these pieces in the dressing room.

A little diversion: Kismet at work! Lisanne of sewingplum's blog has an excellent post up on sewing a wardrobe of basics and deriving the style interest solely from accessories. Lisanne is working from Janice's concept of the common wardrobe. View Janice's many takes on accessorizing the common wardrobe here. All of the pictures in this post illustrate this idea.

Bring a couple of 'frosting' pieces you think you will want to wear with these basics. I didn't do this, though i did try on the pencil skirt with a vee neck tee from my closet. But when i was in the dressing room i realized how smart it would have been to have a jacket, coat, statement blouse, or boots. I will do this on my next 'veggie safari', even if it's 95F outside and all i want to wear is my skivvies!

i want this rayon spandex dress! style could not be easier.

Take pictures and/or a trusted friend. This goes double if you have trouble wrapping your mind around essentials and how they would work with your own non-mainstream style. Both suggestions will help you get some objectivity and think about these pieces in a more practical manner. Trying on clothes can be a very emotional experience in the best of circumstances. When you are stretching your comfort zone it can be downright fraught. You want to be able to see beyond the emotions, so bring a camera and a friend. A camera can also take notes for you - take pictures of the labels for price, style, and fiber content. It's also helpful to take closeups of hard to see design or construction details.

These suggestions should help you to figure out if these pieces really will stretch your wardrobe. Eileen Fisher's pieces are very well cut, very very comfy, the fabrics droolingly exquisite. I would happily invite many of her items to stay in my closet! But i cannot afford $160 for a pencil skirt. The amazing wool knit wrap in the first picture in this post was almost $200 on deep deep discount. What are some ways to get this type of groove going in the closet at an investment i can realistically make?

Buy designer pieces on sale, with coupons, on consignment and on e-bay.  If you go this route, do your homework. Investigate as many different options as you can, because pricing is complicated and fluid and doesn't work in a 'sensible' way.For example: I went to Eileen Fisher's outlet thinking i would find great prices. I found many of last season's pieces at 25-50% off of retail. I found a fair selection of 'system' pieces (my main interest) but all were offered at full retail pricing. Fiddlesticks!

However, the next week i was at Macy's Broadway Plaza. Macy's was having a store-wide sale where everything was at least 20-30% off, and many pieces had a 25-40% price cut on top of the store wide discount. When the math was done, new 'system' pieces could be had for 60-70% of retail (or even less if you use a Macy's credit card, like Mr. E does). There was a nice selection of styles, sizes, and petites and plus offerings. Which just goes to show that you need to search search search to get your best price.

tunic from first pic, pencil skirt. silk jersey collapses against the body and packs beautifully.
Buy knock-offs. The key here is to educate yourself about the cut, construction, and fabric used in the designer pieces so that you can choose a good quality knock off. It makes no sense to buy a cheesy knock off just because it costs less money - if it doesn't fit and flatter, the fabric pills, and seams fall apart. I have seen pieces of good quality and really nice design offered at many price points. But you won't have the confidence to snap these pieces up if you aren't familiar with 'the real thing'. Again, do your homework by going to the originals, trying them on, feeling the fabric and investigating the seams and interfacing, and reading the fibre content labels.  Don't worry about taking up the sales people's time. Just tell them you love the label but you have a limited budget so you need to really take your time deciding what you can realistically buy. (If you tell them you're 'just looking' they may decide you're ripe for an impulse buy, so i have become leery of using that phrase.)

Pursue custom made. Even if you can afford designer retail prices, for around that amount of money you can have a piece custom made by a tailor or seamstress. This may be a great option if you have special fitting concerns, fabric preferences, etc.  And of course many women use Eileen Fisher's approach as inspiration for their own wardrobe sewing projects.

I've certainly learned a lot about wardrobe essentials/basics by studying Eileen Fisher's take on this concept. What is your experience with this part of the closet - do you find you appreciate and depend on your 'veggies', or are you so enamored by 'dessert' that you worry about becoming 'malnourished'?  In the last couple of months i've acquired a couple of pretty basic 'essentials' and i find myself practically living in them, especially when life gets hectic. This has confirmed the wisdom of my plan to head in this direction and focus on a core of basics before focusing on the fun pieces. What say you?

Saturday, August 25, 2012

Who Needs Scott Schuman When You've Got AARP Magazine?



So, i'm housesitting for the patriarchal side of the family the other day. While in the, ahem, 'library' i'm riffling through the offerings for any new reading matter when suddenly i spy - My Girl Annie in the perfect look pour moi!  My heart grew warm as i reflected that my love of and success in translating her look was assured, as i'd already worn two takeoffs on it before spotting her version on the cover of AARP Magazine.

Photo by Rufen Afanador in AARP Magazine April/May 2012
 Back in July i'd fallen in love with the way my tiered skirt worked as a 'suit not a suit' with my animale duster. Creating these kind of  SNAS fits right in with my aspiration to repeat winning combinations, as i can stay with the 'suit' and change out tops, shoes, hats, and other accessories. I get the ease and sure fire flattery of repeating with the fun of remixing all at once. This inspired me to go searching in my closet for other undiscovered SNAS's. Turns out i had just completed one.
 
Photo by Rufen Afanador in AARP Magazine April/May 2012
During another house sitting soujourn i'd purchased lightweight linen on the spur of the moment to make another of these Elisita-inspired skirts. My first one is threadbare but i kept reaching for it in the heat, when my leg ached, when i wanted a dramatic silhouette. You've seen the copy already (in a tree), but it didn't take me long to see how wonderfully it pairs with this Peruvian Connection jacket from a few years ago. Bob was actually my great uncle, but style is no time to get mired in technicalities.



I've had an affinity for The Annie Hall Style since high school, and can't count how many times people have told me i put them in mind of that look. I always appreciated the compliments, however in the heyday of that style i never felt comfortable with copying the look wholesale. And not just because i'm not the type of person who copies looks wholesale. My style has never had that much of an emphasis on men's wear, i prefer a more structured and waist defining silhouette, and i liked to combine vintage with modern pieces as well as antique references (like panniers).


With the passage of time, it seems Ms. Keaton has come around. We've always both loved hats, and covering up. In the April/May 2012 AARP article David Hochman comments about Ms. Keaton's trademark black turtlenecks. He especially admires the way the one she's wearing has very long sleeves with little thumb loops so they cover part of the hands. "At my age," Ms. Keaton smiles, "I try to hide anything I can."  Ha! No one is noticing how covered up she is, they're noticing how cool those sleeves are and wondering where they can get their own and if they could carry them off!


Other elements of Ms. Keaton's looks that i love? The neutral palettes, the shorter, structured, old-fashioned jacket over a voluminous skirt, the scarf/hat/glasses trio and the rugged touches of belt and boots. How i adore any outfit which is dressed up, feminine, old fashioned yet looks like you could hike several miles in it with little trouble. Be still my heart.

Newscom photo
 This on the street shot shows a wonderful look and a canny strategy for getting dressed. You only notice the gorgeous coat, amazing belt, flats, hat and scarf - the leggings and whatever else is under there makes no difference. (In the picture she looks like she is walking her children to or from school.) For all we know she slept in those leggings and a tank, threw on the rest and she's out the door looking pulled together and chic. Smart smart smart for busy mornings.

 And smart is what i love about Ms. Keaton most. Her very unique mind. Now is where i would, in a perfect world, link you to a podcast of the talk Ms. Keaton gave to City Arts and Lectures in SF about her documentary on her mother. Ms. Keaton's mother died after a long time with Alzheimer's disease, and Ms. Keaton's talk about her in -progress film on this topic was warm, thoughtful, insightful, inspiring, and very moving. You don't hear celebrities being this open about their pedicures, much less intimate family relationships. Sadly City Arts and Lectures doesn't have the rights or resources to produce tapes, transcripts, or podcasts. And i didn't even make a bootleg!!!!

Photo by Rufen Afanador in AARP Magazine April/May 2012

Here's a  Google search on Diane Keaton interviews. The two-parter with Oprah is charming and has some great comments on plastic surgery (she sounds just like Mr. E in both her mixed feelings and how funny she is about it). But nothing like her talking about the non-celeb stuff with an intelligent, prepared interviewer for an hour. Sigh. At the same time, it's wonderful and very refreshing to see a 'Celebrity Movie Actress' with a wattly neck and jowly jaws who doesn't obsess about it and looks beautiful and out of this world stylish.

On a personal note:
Whew! I've had nought to say the last few weeks, no ideas whatsoever. Thus no posts. My husband recently began a new job. Prior to this job, at his previous employers, he spent about two and a half years waiting to be laid off. You prepare as best you can for whatever contingencies you can think of. And then you wait.

T.'s finding a new position and getting settled in has been a huge relief. I hadn't realized the strain of always being ready to be in the proper frame of mind and emotion when the axe fell. There is also the feeling of suspended animation, which leads to hesitation to fully live, even in areas of life where that makes no sense.

Fortunately i feel both of us got over the 'suspended animation' habit. There's no need to not live your life because of major uncertainties -after all, any life can fall apart in a matter of minutes at any time.  But moving on from living always under threat brought about a deeper relaxation than i'd allowed myself in years, and for a few weeks impressions and ideas have flowed in, not out.

I also realize, once again, how fortunate i am to have a husband who i can respect so deeply for his hard work, intelligence, and willingness to do very well whatever needs to be done, no matter how it goes against his innate personality.  Selling yourself on the open market is difficult for anyone. For the shy, deeply thoughtful, absolutely honest and perfectionist person it is excruciating. None of this stopped him, which is incredibly admirable. His good lucks, Irish charm, Sicilian style, and utter hilarity are merely the icing on the cake.

Friday, August 3, 2012

Rivertown Revival: Stripes!


Round Two of Rivertown Revival pictures! (Click here for post numero uno.) I echoed the predominant vibe and wore a couple of everyday pieces. I did don some different undergarments in order to change the silhouette and make the look more vintage/festive. I wore a  bulky petticoat, small bustle, and strapless, plunge-backed corset-bra. This had the added attraction of showing lots of shoulder when my top's strap fell down. Who knows why, but baring my shoulders always feels much cooler than even adding 1/2" wide bra straps. My socks are indeed striped in white and light grey, more visible in the sock on your left. I wasn't game enough to wear them pulled up in 100F.


I took almost all of these pictures with a very wide lens pointed in the general direction of the subject. No asking 'May I?' and no posing. This increased my number of possible subjects, since i don't move fast enough to catch up with people on the go. Also, i took some pictures like this one, which catch a certain flavor of the event in an abstract and unexpected way. The awesome take on the 'Double R' logo, workboots, lace, and stripes all set against a sea of hay capture the essence of the day in the way a posed portrait does not.


This guy looks like he dug out his favorite trousers from 1969 for the occasion. See what you could be missing a couple of decades from now if you insist on regular and ruthless closet purging? His friend has gorgeous hair and a fetching smile, and created a perfect look for the day without, i dare say, spending a dime.


Stripes, corsets, and various hats popped up all over the RR. But these red patent platform lace up boots were the only glam-rock reference to Ziggy Stardust i spotted all day long.


RR has a very nice wedding garden where you can trade non-binding vows with the partner of your choice. Here you get a peek at the lovely decor, the live music, and the officiant. The wedding garden had very nice shady seating - ahhhh........


Another couple who got into the mood with a minimum of fun, using a maximum of creative thinkin'. Check out the wallet-belt, and those boots! Those fairy skirts were very popular with little girls - they were like little moving chinese lanterns or crepe decor, adding color and magic wherever they went.


These two girls were so cute! And the striped hat grounds an outfit which looks like it could float away with a strong breeze. I saw a few gal couples dressed as girl/boy. In one case the 'newspaper boy' walked a corseted steampunk bride to the wedding garden altar.

In the left background you can see the photo booth.  In the photo booth you could pose for four pictures (taken by a professional photographer). Afterwards, they posted the photos at the RR website, where you (or your mom or...) can purchase the photos online or simply gaze in awe. The booth had a few props, courtesy of Petaluma store Heebe Jeebe. (Heebe Jeebe's booth at RR was attended by the tattoo lady from last post.)


I saw this woman in the ticket line as we entered the festival. I drooled over her look (Beige! Linen! Cobwebby Victoriana! Eccentric doo-dads!). Politely as i could, i told her of my admiration of her sartorial skillz and asked if i could take her picture. She fumbled and mumbled and skittered away from the camera lens, finally agreeing to a visual record of our encounter as long as i did not post the result on Facebook.

Her nervous demeanor affected my own, indeed her last line caused me to laugh inappropriately and try to convey to her my situation - she was safe as could be, as around 65% of the time i cannot even log onto my pitifully inactive facebook account. As she'd knocked me off my composure, and kept on walking, i could only catch a couple of snaps as she strode off to pilot a steampowered blimp.

And so we bid RR adieu. Here's to all of us having a happy, festive weekend!

Wednesday, August 1, 2012

Rivertown Revival

the gorgeous and dashing Mr. Eccentric - i swoon!
 A couple of weekends ago Mr. E and i attended the Rivertown Revival in Petaluma. RR is a family-friendly, local festival which takes place on a slough in the middle of the city and river of Petaluma. On the surface it's similar to lots of festivals - live music at several stages, food, art boat races, crafts and art for sale. But the Rivertown Revival is exceedingly local and community oriented, it reflects the creativity of Petaluma in such a strong way that it would be impossible to mistake Rivertown Revival for any other festival in any other town.

at the Heebe Jeebe booth
 First, they have volunteer meetings a couple of months beforehand so people can help to set up the crafts booths for the kids(i saw dijeridoos and dreamcatchers), help with signage, etc. The kid's games are small and extra fun - they had a dunk tank where you could dunk your dad, for instance. All of the food vendors were from Petaluma, as were most of the craft and art vendors. In fact, we attend many of these festivals and at least 90% of the vendors were new to me. While i appreciate seeing old favorites at craft fairs, it was a real treat to see so many new faces!


One part that was a lot of fun for me was the way people dressed for the event. Many people 'made an effort', which added to the festive atmosphere. But i saw very few elaborate, expensive costumes. Instead, it looked like most folks took a look in their closet, ran down to the Goodwill, rolled up their pants and grabbed a pair of striped socks. No big competition about who has the most expensive, historically accurate duds like you can see happening at Renaissance or Dicken's Faires. The motto here? Just get in the mood and have some fun!


When we arrived, around noon, the temperature on the local bank's sign was 100F. Fortunately the river brought in cooling winds and by late afternoon the temperature had fallen to the mid '80's. Still, sun protection was the order of the day - even guys sported parasols and hats.


I so admire the way this lady brought a vintage vibe to a very modern shape and palette - black and grey. Rompers were very popular with all ages of ladies. The tattooed lady towards the top of this post told me that the year before she'd worn a corset, bustle, long skirts - "The whole deal!". But she was so hot she decided on a romper this year and was very happy she did! She looked amazing - she wore deep violet fake eyelashes as well.


Guys got into the spirit just as much as the gals.  These two embody the vibe of the day - use what's at hand, toss on a fancy piece or two and it's all in how you wear it. I couldn't help but notice how pushing up your sleeves, rolling up your pants, combining pieces you generally wouldn't (because they're all kind of old-fashioned-y) creates such an effect.

It brought home to me that, scrumptious as individual pieces can be, what other people see us wear is outfits. Put some thought and creativity into what items you choose to wear together, and how you wear them, to make sure everything is working towards your intended effect.

What type of festivals do they have in your area, and do people dress up at all? I loved the way this festival allowed such leeway in dress, you could have fun with the vintage/old-timey vibe while at the same time using a lot from our current style palette. At some historical faires i've gotten some very disapproving looks when i dressed in the 'wrong' decade, or wasn't 'accurate' enough. It can be intimidating and kind of wrecks the fun mood. This place felt much more fun and lighthearted.

Next up - more Rivertown Revival pictures with even more stripes.

Sunday, July 29, 2012

Scandalously Simple Travel Capsule

Saturday's look in downtown Nevada City

I have a confession to make. While i thoroughly enjoy participating in Patti's Visible Monday group posts, i very rarely feel all that visible in the outfits i highlight. I suppose that as a 50 year old woman in our culture, just dressing with some individuality (and blogging about it) qualifies for visibility.  But that's a theoretical concept, not the visceral experience of feeling exposed just because of what you're wearing.

However, one of this post's outfits did make me feel pretty easy to spot! Mr. E and i went up to Nevada City last Friday the 13th to attend Mariee Sioux's CD release party and concert. Due to horrendous traffic (all the radio traffic reporters were commenting about how unprecedentedly dreadful it was) we missed the first act. But we made it in time to see The Moore Brothers, then Mariee Sioux herself. We had a great time. Nevada City has an unusual vibe in the Gold Country as it's much more artsy and free-thinking than the rest of central California, with massage schools, indie concert venues, acupuncture offices, boutiques showcasing local eco-conscious designers, and so on. The crowd at the concert reflected this with a nice mix of ages and no 'uniform' look.

Friday's Concert Look

Most of the attendees dressed fairly casually; so in my skirt, heels, and hat i stood out from the crowd. But I felt visible mainly because so many ladies were sweet enough to compliment me on my outfit! I can't remember the last time i had so many compliments at one time, and i enjoyed it. The ladies of Nevada City lived up to the small town stereotype of welcoming hospitality in the best possible way. Not surprisingly, they all looked great as well. Many of them wore dresses with a casual flair not often seen but perfect for the occasion and the town.

Friday Concert Look - from the back

Mr. E and I stayed two nights in a chain motel in Auburn, a half hour drive from Nevada City. It was hot, in the nineties, and a big fire was burning only a few miles away. Fortunately the wind stayed in our favor on Saturday and the smoke didn't come our way. We spent most of the day strolling around Nevada City, checking out the Victorians, the shops, and a great garage sale. But Sunday morning our luck ran out and smoke lay over the area. So we headed back to the bay after a leisurely breakfast in Auburn.

Now, the travel capsule. Our trip lasted three days and two nights. We left Friday late afternoon (after Mr. E got off work) and returned midday Sunday. Last July i house sat for my dad and bonus mom quite a bit, packing my usual ton of stuff. At one point, as i glared at my suitcase, Mr. E said: "You could wear the same thing every day, no one's going to see you." While planning for this latest jaunt, Mr. E's words rang in my ears and emboldened me to be more sartorially daring in my packing this time. I packed light, and wore even lighter. I took two skirts, one frock coat, two tops, one black hoody (nicer quality), two hats, three pairs of shoes.  I wore one top (washed after second night), one frock coat, two skirts, two hats, two pair of shoes.


Trying on black coton ruffle tank - didn't buy

 The outfits: Friday (for the concert) i wore the ivory lace trimmed blouse, black tiered skirt, black and white striped frock coat, Fossil oxfords, black stripey over-the-knee socks and 'mushroom' hat. Saturday (sightseeing, walking, and shopping in Nevada City) i chose the same top, skirt, and hat with snakeskin sandals and no hose. Sunday (breakfast out, sightseeing, in the car) i wore the same top, snakeskin sandals again, oatmeal linen skirt, Tula bucket hat, and my new Extasia necklace (purchased Saturday).

Sunday's Look


I thought this travel capsule worked out great! I enjoyed having less clothing to keep track of, i was physically comfortable, my clothes were appropriate for the trip's activities, and i loved all the looks. Especially since Mr. E and i take a fair amount of weekend trips, i'm analyzing this trips capsule for future use. What made this capsule work? Well, it's really just one outfit (ivory lace trimmed blouse, frock coat, tiered skirt) that's changed up with accessories for different effects/temperatures and with a change of bottoms (skirt). The frock coat and tiered skirt make a great 'suit' and would have looked nice with the snakeskin sandals as well as with the heels and socks even though i didn't have occasion to wear this combination.

detail of the blouse and a look at my new necklace

Another approach to this 'one outfit' capsule would be to wear a variety of tops with the same third layer (jacket, vest, cardigan, etc.) and bottom. Tops are great for variety and they take up very little space. This ivory top worked well because it has a nice structure to it so you still have a nice look when you take off the frock coat. It is also very quick-drying. Although i took along another blouse (i forget which one! oh, my face is red) i decided to stick with the ivory blouse all weekend. I chose the oatmeal skirt for Sunday and it was quite comfy to wear on the ride home. The light color combined with the ivory top for a monotone look, which made a nice visual change from the dramatic black/white contrast of the previous two looks. 
 
from Extasia's Nevada City outlet store - my first and (i hope) far from last Extasia piece

 I think the key is to make sure that your 'base outfit' works for whatever you're going to be doing on your trip. I would always go with a 'three layer look' (top, bottom, jacket) personally. I'm most comfortable with a third layer physically and it is also a signature of my personal style. I would also choose a top that can 'carry' the look without the third layer. For colder weather i would pack leggings/tights, wool socks, a tank or two, scarves, a fleece or cashmere shrug in addition to my three layer outfit and another blouse or skirt. Adding wool tights, a slip, a cashmere shrug and scarf to my concert look could see me through most winter weather in Northern California, and stripping the outfit down to it's basic 'blouse and skirt' was perfect for very hot weather. That's flexibility!

It's a conundrum that i've loved the idea of a minimalist wardrobe for decades, and have been diligently working towards one for two years now - but whenever it's time to take a trip, i automatically stuff that suitcase to bursting! It was so fun and easy to take along just enough, not having to worry about all that 'stuff'. It felt footloose and fancy free....spontaneous and out of the ordinary routine. Lighter - metaphorically as well as literally!

I'm thrilled to have made some type of packing breakthrough - i fantasize about taking a rolling tote and dressing out of it for a week...but i'm not deluded enough to think i've got it all figured out.  Any and all travel packing tips, tricks, and ideas are welcome!

Friday, July 27, 2012

Life Is Imperfect And Beautiful



This post is sponsored by Omhu.

You may be surprised to learn that i did not come up with this post title myself, as it reflects my approach to life so very well. But those aren't my words - they are the founding philosophy of Omhu.  Omhu makes canes. They are in the planning stages of their next project, to make a shower/gardening chair. Now, canes and shower chairs are both objects which our culture places in a special category.  Our culture views both of these objects (and others) in a particularly prejudiced way. Today i want to get across to you how i feel that Omhu's approach to making objects, informed by their philosophy, is about much more than making 'fun canes'. Omhu's philosophy is also helping to break down negative stereotypes about these objects; stereotypes which end up tainting the people who use these objects as tools to lead fuller lives.

The aesthetic in which mainstream manufacturers produce these products (dehumanizing, machine like, using chromes and grey injection-moulded plastic to echo 'industrial' architecture) reinforces these stereotypes, creating a feedback loop. Confronting these objects, we wonder how something so ugly and ungainly could play an integral role in a vibrant, engaged life?  Just looking at a standard shower chair in your bathroom makes you feel you're halfway to 'the home'. It's a viscious cycle.


At it's core, this stereotype boils down to: If you use a cane or a shower chair, it means you have lost. You have been defeated - by disease, old age, accident. Your life, by virtue of having use of these objects, is now less than it was before. Speaking from personal experience, i can tell you that this widespread, sometimes unconscious stereotype is wrong.




Stereotypes are habitual ideas. Happily, we can change both ideas and habits. In the 1920's, Dorothy Parker lamented, "Men seldom make passes at girls who wear glasses". But today, when i whip out my double-C emblazoned eyeglass case,  my acquaintances are more likely to muse, "And I thought she was a Kate Spade gal..." than reflect on my optical deficiencies. Spectacles have become so identified with style and fashion that's it's nigh on impossible to find a pair sans designer logo! Intriguingly enough, this transformation has occurred along with major improvements in functionality, made possible by technological advances. Thinner, stronger, more malleable materials allow better visual correction as well as greater design function and more comfortable wear.

Demographics and the baby boomer generation also play a major role in this transformation. The 'me' generation has focussed on fitness, individuality, and youth like no other in living memory, and they are hanging on to these values with unheard of tenaciousness as well.

Heaven knows we Americans are practically hypnotized by any and all 'technological advances'. From 3-D printing used to make skin grafts to Tang, our fascination with  these innovations knows no bounds. Right now it's evident in the growing acceptance and admiration of prosthetic limbs. True, modern replacement limbs can mimic the look and feel of the absent body part quite literally. But today's attention focuses laser-like on the high performance prosthetic. These limbs enable such incredible feats of strength and speed that legless athletes equipped with these prosthetics have quite recently been barred from international competitions due to their perceived unfair advantage over the merely normal.  This week we will see the first participation of a high-performance prosthetic equipped athlete in the Olympics alongside normal-bodied sprinters.


Omhu's vision applies these modern ideas about style, individuality and performance to the stereotyped 'pariah objects' in our society. They imbue their products with design elements guaranteed to bring fun, elegance, and charisma. At the same time great attention is paid to ensuring that the functional aspects of their cane yield superior performance. In fact, the descriptions of these canes will put the average American techo-geek more in mind of his iPad or smart phone than grandpa's walker with it's cut-open tennis balls for traction.

The kicker is Omhu's use of the classic cane shape - much brassier move than creating some new 'high concept' design. This cane is what it's looks like it is - it maintains it's intergrity and has no need to hide it's quite noble function.  It's one thing to lavish beauty and technology on a product meant to be used by the young, healthy, and high achieving. It's quite another to assert that older people, and people with various diminished capabilities derserve the same attention to meeting their needs as well as satisfying their individual preferences. It is this aspect of Omhu's project which, to me, sets them apart from and in front of so many other organizations in their arena.

Okay, you're thinking, all this is fascinating and current and pertinent and thought-provoking (i hope!), but - What's up with the pics of me in a tree? Through my entire life nature has been my solace and my love. Several years ago, due to treatment for severe atypical asthma, i sustained damage which made it impossible for me to walk, sit, or stand normally. I limped, had little strength or stamina, and experienced severe pain. My heart broke when i realized that my days of hiking alone, watching the flowers and trees and various creatures go about their days, could very well be ended. At night, I had many dreams of walking and running freely, often on northern California's austere beaches. During the day, i used every resource i could think of to heal my body so i could do as much as my fate allowed.



The day i finally found myself out alone in the woods of Point Reyes, espying a few Aminita mushrooms blooming in the duff, just able to make out the sound of the waves crashing on the beach hundreds of feet below the bluff - it was with a cane.  I could not have made it there without a cane, to give me balance, provide a place to rest, and add a bit of extra 'mileage' to what i could do. It even provided a bit of 'security' in it's vaguely menacing deer-antler handle, which guys looked at askance while quickening their steps and flashing a nervous grin.

If i now tell you that i loved climbing trees as a girl, i am sure that you will see my inspiration for the images in this post. Besides, tree climbing is quintessentially imperfect and beautiful. You'll likely end up with sticky sap in your hair or a scraped knee (bloody elbow in this case). But later, when your fingers run over that scar, you'll remember the wonderful feeling of being held in the arms of a hundreds year old giant, high above the land.

Ever since that day back on the trail i've looked at all mobility aids very very differently. To me a cane, wheelchair, or walker means joy, life, independence, and the gift of finding a love you were certain was forever lost. An onlooker on that bluff may have thought 'how sad that such a young woman needs to use a cane....'. But they wouldn't have known the truth. I was exhilirated to be once again where my heart belonged.

Thank you Omhu for making a cane that looks as beautiful as it deserves to be.

Tree photography by Anthony Rich.

This post sponsored and made possible by Omhu. Omhu is a design concern that makes premium medical equipment and accessories. Danish for “with great care,” Omhu was founded on the belief that life is imperfect and beautiful.



on edit: Kevin with Omhu sent along a nice picture of the canes Omhu makes, just in case you're unfamiliar with how they look. You can also keep an eye out for Omhu's ads, which showcase the ladies of Advanced Style along with Omhu's product.

Wednesday, July 18, 2012

Wearing Black In The Heat


 I do not possess a photographic memory for outfits i've worn, unlike a few lucky fashionistas. In fact, one of the reasons i started this blog was so i could have a record of outfits i liked. I'm prone towards forgetting what i wore even the day before, so frustrating when i liked that look and want to reproduce or riff on it!

But a few looks have stuck in my mind. I sported one in the early 1980's, when i was 23 or so. It consisted of a merino wool knit straight skirt which hit just below the knee, and a sleeveless rib knit tank - both in black. I wore this 'dress' with kitten heeled black pumps, strong orange lips, sunnies and gobs of pearls and chains. My hair was a curly blond-streaked mop. In essence, Miss Ciccone meets Coco Chanel. This was in the few months before Desperately Seeking Susan hit the scene. As soon as i saw that movie, i set about an emergency closet purge, but that's another story.

 What i loved most about that look was the minimal, classic background set off by eccentric accessories, and the sheer contradiction of wearing black in the summer. My love of summer black continues all these decades later, but i'm now living in a much hotter climate (+15-20F). Wearing close-fitting black clothing is just too hot out here! But this practicality has not stopped me from trying to find a workaround.......

.....for the past twelve and a half years.  My dogged efforts failed to yield any acceptable results - until about a week and a half ago. I present the successful result to you today. Both top and skirt are loosely fitting cotton, allowing for plenty of cooling breezes. The ivory print of the top helps deflect a few sunrays, as does the cream of the sandals. My new prescription sunglasses help me look cool as well as see cool, too. With blue irises, cataracts, and dry tears my eyes score the trifecta for sun sensitivity. These huge, dark lenses transform sunny days into pure heaven. And i've distilled the gobs of jewels to pearl studs and a chain belt.

If genetics and or the creatrix blessed you with a photographic memory, you may recall that these sunnies appeared once before on this blog - back in February of this year, when i first contemplated buying them. I finally picked them up earlier this month. Last weekend i finally acquired a piece from Extasia's outlet store in Nevada City, after almost two years spent in various states of lust, scheming, and maneuvering. Thus, the theme of 'taking forever to bring items into my orbit' is on my mind recently (and these two aren't the only examples).

I can't say i'm against this method, as i'm enjoying these wardrobe additions immensely. I am trying to discern the instances in which i took my time needlessly, though. May as well get the fun going as soon as possible! But honestly this patch of 'closet philosophy' still remains terra incognita for me. When it comes to 'love at first sight' acquisitions I'm still discovering who i am, what i want, what works best for me. Right now, I wonder if i'm truly eccentric in this pattern of long-term stalking when it comes to the wardrobe. Do any of you do the same? Or do you snap up any to-die-for items the instant they hit your cornea? All insights and personal stories are very welcome!!